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Thread: Camera Question

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Kemp View Post
    Next time I try it I'll look these were junk shots and I deleted the folder from the camera so infor is gone.
    There should be a dial on top of the camera where you can see the Auto setting (A). There is also several other letters. rotate the dial to M and you can adjust shutter speed manually.

    You can get a manual for your camera here.
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  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    There should be a dial on top of the camera where you can see the Auto setting (A). There is also several other letters. rotate the dial to M and you can adjust shutter speed manually.

    You can get a manual for your camera here.
    When I got the camera the first thing I did was download the manual. These shots were taken while camera was in full auto mode. I assume that means the camera will or should pick the right speed and aperture for the shot its about to take. Since I have no experience I have no idea what to choose for those setting in a manual mode, there for I let the camera decide.
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  3. #33
    I took your first two pics and added some extreme light, to see if the image slowly fades to black, or if the image is sharply cut off-

    - it kinda does both..?
    n1.jpg n2.jpg

    I added less light to the 2nd pic, it better shows the fade transition, or lack thereof. It gets to jet black in a short space...

    What stands out to me is the transition between light and black isn't the least bit straight, and both are different. If the shutter is to blame, it should show a straight edge. Could be angled, but it would still be a straight edge. But pic 1, the edges roll down and there's a slight dip in the middle, pic 2 runs downhill left to right, a bit larger dip, and similar roll down on the right as pic 1...

    If the problem is the shutter I would expect the transition to be quite straight. Same with the mirror, but the mirror's edge that would block incoming light is a long way from the shutter opening, and it's hinged and mechanically operated, so vibration and errant light reflection and blockage could account somewhat for the non-straight transition, but I'm still puzzled about how the mirror could cause the roll-down on both ends. Could the lens be contributing in some way? I'm left to wonder if your CCD sensor isn't quite up to snuff...?
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  4. #34
    Your right it is weird that the shadow line is not straight . I don't understand whats going on.I just took a bunch of pictures the first 3 had the shadow slowly go away after that no problem changes lens and still ok. eem like after the camera sit over night or for a period of time it happens.
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  5. #35
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    FWIW, this looks exactly like every sticking shutter I've ever seen. It's rarely been a hard and fast straight line. Especially if you have a multiple zoned image (which you do).
    ~mike

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  6. #36
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    I have not read every reply, but likely the reason you are getting a dark area is the glue weighted the mirror down, so it is not coming up fast enough and is blocking Your image. Sorry if this was already said.

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by mike stenson View Post
    FWIW, this looks exactly like every sticking shutter I've ever seen. It's rarely been a hard and fast straight line. Especially if you have a multiple zoned image (which you do).
    Agree with Mike. I used to really cherish my camera bodies back in the analog days: Nikon F3, F100, F5, etc. Got sentimentally attached to them, like your car or piece of shop machinery. Then, once I switched to digital, it seemed like unless you were willing to pay thousands of dollars for the newest pro body, you might get a decent sensor but the parts were all plastic. I've gotten to the point now where I no longer view my bodies the way I used to. If it dies or falls and breaks, then I would just buy another one. Each digital body I've bought since those days has been used. Let someone else take the hit to get the newest/latest. Bert, for $200, I'd just buy another one on Ebay. Hope my logic makes sense and best of luck, whatever you decide to do.

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  8. #38
    Buying another is not an option. This one works ok after a few shot.
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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev Williams View Post
    ...
    Attachment 438008
    --and has a vertical plane shutter
    It doesn't take a lot for a mechanical shutter to stick. 40+ years ago when I dabbled in camera repair someone brought me an Olympus (film) camera he had dropped off a low trail bridge into a mountain creek. After disassembly and drying everything worked except the shutter was dragging. Turned out the creek water must have left some kind of deposits on the shutter blades. I cleaned those carefully with distilled water then PGA and all worked again. (Those compact Olympus cameras were both an engineering marvel and a nightmare to work on!)

    Don't know about this one, but on some SLRS there is a small external button or lever to lock the mirror up. If it has that, try shooting a series of pictures with the mirror locked. If you still get the dark area it's not the mirror.

    JKJ

  10. #40
    I'll see if my camera has that feature and give it a go if it does. Thanx
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    It doesn't take a lot for a mechanical shutter to stick. 40+ years ago when I dabbled in camera repair someone brought me an Olympus (film) camera he had dropped off a low trail bridge into a mountain creek. After disassembly and drying everything worked except the shutter was dragging. Turned out the creek water must have left some kind of deposits on the shutter blades. I cleaned those carefully with distilled water then PGA and all worked again. (Those compact Olympus cameras were both an engineering marvel and a nightmare to work on!)

    Don't know about this one, but on some SLRS there is a small external button or lever to lock the mirror up. If it has that, try shooting a series of pictures with the mirror locked. If you still get the dark area it's not the mirror.

    JKJ
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