Question about building a 3” thick countertop

[Ramey Channell]

Good morning,

I haven’t logged into the forum in a long time and I couldn’t even remember my username. Anyways I’m working on building an outdoor island for a friend that I do a good amount of work for. They wanted a thick top (Aprox 3”) and at first they saw a photo of a Tigerwood edge grain top. I searched high and low for some 8/4 Tigerwood and actually my exotic wood distributor carried it but he was out at the time I needed it so we had to go with something else (I’m glad we did because I think it would have been a nightmare working with that wood and getting the glue to hold). We ended up going with 12/4 quartersawn sapele. I had heard and worked with sapele before just never quartersawn sapele. Honestly I had no idea what it even looked like until my distributor sent me a picture of it finished. I’ve built numerous farmhouse tables and beds and have a background in cabinet building. Usually a pocket joint for assembling the top is my way to go but about 6 months ago I bought the beadlock loose tenon system and I was wondering how that would work in assembling this 3” thick top. I’ve have both the standard 3/8” and larger 1/2” system but to be honest I’ve never used it before. I’ve bought this system until I could justify the cost of a Festool domino. My way of thinking is that using the beadlock system that the mortises would all be in the same place (thickness wise) on the board and then they are clamped together there wouldn’t be as much of a chance of them walking on me compared to when you pocket something together. I know it won’t be perfect any route I take but and there will be a few seams to sand but again I thought the chances are better using the beadlock system compared to the HD pocket holes. Any thoughts or guidance is very appreciated.

- Ramey

[Jim Matthews]

Sapele with a striped figure will split along the grain where it alternates direction, if it's fixed to supports.

Even QS, it's going to cup in direct sunlight - likely pulling at least one table leg off the floor.

This thickness and exposure calls for laminated, rather than solid materials on the top.

[Ramey Channell]

Thank you Mr. Matthews for the reply. It definitely has a stripped figure and that was one of the things that stood out to them most. Yes the island will be outdoors but it will not be in direct sunlight 100% of the time. It will be up under a shelter most of the time or whenever it's not being used and even when they are using it I don't think they will be moving it into any sunlight. It will be on casters because they do want to be able to move it around their covered patio. I will have stretchers running the depth of the cabinet on both ends and most likely on either side of the partition so that I can attach the the top to the cabinet itself. I planned on using WaterLox to help with the UV and moisture issues. I'm located in Central Georgia and the humidity is pretty rough down here.

[Jim Matthews]

I dunno.
Most of my red flags are up, already.

Brun woodworks has a handsome display table and might be coaxed for pointers.

In my experience, a backyard table stays in the first place it gets put down.


https://www.houzz.com/hznb/projects/...c-pj-vj~417232