Anyone have experience using India Ink as a wood dye?

[John TenEyck]

Well I had to go and look, but the speedball super black I used does say "contains shellac"

My apology; you are correct. I used a different brand which is waterproof but can be diluted with water.

John

[Brian Hummel]

I think next time I attempt this I will try my damnedest to get one nice solid coat. First coat went on like a dream and actually looked pretty good. Second coat was a nightmare. There was some unstained spots deep in the grain where the surface tension of the ink wouldn’t let it get in there. Maybe first cost india ink, second coat like GF onyx or something.

Those are precisely my thoughts. The last time I botched this, the first coat actually looked damn good. Some light specks could be seen where the ink hadn't quite penetrated deep enough in some areas but great coverage, no stealing or blot homes. Then I applied the second coat....

Interestingly, all of the tests that I did on small pieces of the same milled ash turn out great with multiple coats...it was only when I was trying to coat an entire waterfall leg tabletop that I ran into issues with the second coats.

[Brian Hummel]

I think next time I attempt this I will try my damnedest to get one nice solid coat. First coat went on like a dream and actually looked pretty good. Second coat was a nightmare. There was some unstained spots deep in the grain where the surface tension of the ink wouldn’t let it get in there. Maybe first cost india ink, second coat like GF onyx or something.

When you "retry" a failed India Ink price, do you start over by sanding down to raw wood...starting somewhere like 60 grit?

[Rob Luter]

I've used India ink on maple to make a guitar pickguard and it turned out well. I ebonized some oak once but rather than ink I used Minwax Ebony Oil Stain. It worked exceptionally well. I made sure to blow out the wood pores first. I've had fine sanding dust block stain in the past and blowing out the pores can make a big difference.

[Steve Hubbard]

Ash rails for baby gates - sanded to 180, no effort to raise grain - wiped on 3 coats of Speedball (shellac listed on label) making an attempt to work ink into grain. No problems with each coat drying overnight in a climate controlled shop. All grain pores completely black after third coat. Arm-R-Seal topcoat.

[chuck van dyck]

When you "retry" a failed India Ink price, do you start over by sanding down to raw wood...starting somewhere like 60 grit?

I had some success with a finely tuned card scraper followed by 120 then ragging on the ink keeping a wet edge as much as possible until I felt it was adequately coated. Gonna apply oil tomorrow and will try to remember to take a photo and update.

[chuck van dyck]

I've used India ink on maple to make a guitar pickguard and it turned out well. I ebonized some oak once but rather than ink I used Minwax Ebony Oil Stain. It worked exceptionally well. I made sure to blow out the wood pores first. I've had fine sanding dust block stain in the past and blowing out the pores can make a big difference.

That's a good point. I should use more compressed air prior to finishing.

Ash rails for baby gates - sanded to 180, no effort to raise grain - wiped on 3 coats of Speedball (shellac listed on label) making an attempt to work ink into grain. No problems with each coat drying overnight in a climate controlled shop. All grain pores completely black after third coat. Arm-R-Seal topcoat.

Interesting. I'm finding wiping to be much more agreeable then brushing on.

[chuck van dyck]

When you "retry" a failed India Ink price, do you start over by sanding down to raw wood...starting somewhere like 60 grit?

Is the point of using speedball specifically that it doesn’t require a seal coat or spray to avoid removing the dye?

[Steve Hubbard]

Chuck,
Until this thread appeared, I had not noticed that the label mentioned shellac. I bought Speedball online because it was so much less costly than the India ink at the statinery store, and available in a larger quantity. My tests included dyes and stains and ink - the ink provided the best coverage, and I was planning to topcoat with varnish. The advertising said it cleaned up with water, and I failed to look closely at the label for other ingredients. I purchased a pint, now looks like I have a lifetime supply - it covers a lot of surface.
Steve

[chuck van dyck]

Chuck,
Until this thread appeared, I had not noticed that the label mentioned shellac. I bought Speedball online because it was so much less costly than the India ink at the statinery store, and available in a larger quantity. My tests included dyes and stains and ink - the ink provided the best coverage, and I was planning to topcoat with varnish. The advertising said it cleaned up with water, and I failed to look closely at the label for other ingredients. I purchased a pint, now looks like I have a lifetime supply - it covers a lot of surface.
Steve

I see. I used speedball because it was leftover from a shopmate’s project and they gave me the leftover. After doing my own research, I’m very interested in using a NGR next time around. Mohawk deep penetrating black seems to have good reviews.

Honestly though, its gonna be hard to convince me out of black milk paint or a dark tea and iron oxide in the future.