I have the Freud 1/4-3/8" box joint set and love it. I also have the Incra TS-LS Positioner fence, so I use the scale on the fence when I need to cut larger dado's with multiple passes.
I do use this on my Sawstop with the Dado brake.
I have the Freud 1/4-3/8" box joint set and love it. I also have the Incra TS-LS Positioner fence, so I use the scale on the fence when I need to cut larger dado's with multiple passes.
I do use this on my Sawstop with the Dado brake.
Most, if not all good quality dado sets will produce a flat bottomed cut. (Of course, getting your sharpening shop to keep them that way may be another story, DAMHIKT)
To make the "bat ears" of the cut less noticeable, switch the two outside blades left for right, putting the "ears" under the joint instead of on each side. They will get filled with glue and dust while assembling and sanding and become less noticeable IMO
Chris,
I had that set and replaced it when I discovered (as in reading the manual) that Sawstop doesn't approve it because of the anti-kickback shoulders. The shoulders prevent the blades from stopping fast enough when the brake is triggered. Had to replace the Freud dado set for the same reason.
Cliff
The problem with the world is that intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence.
Charles Bukowski
Flat bottomed blades, you make the rocking board go down.
Get on your bikes and ride.
Dan,
I'm using an incra iBox. It works fine.
It's interesting that vendors and many people don't seem to equate "flat bottomed cut" with "bat-ears". As far as I'm concerned, if there are bat-ears, then regardless of the rest of the cut quality, it is *not* a flat-bottommed cut.
Like there are "levels" of flat-bottom. I think of it as it is or it isn't.
If you haven't, spend a few minutes watch William Ng's you tube on his box joint jig. You can have a dado set flat ground. Box joint are a ripping operation, so this shouldn't be a problem.