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Thread: Request for crowd source solution: Help me select new sharpening stones?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by brian zawatsky View Post
    Imagine telling people that you don’t like the Shapton pro finisher, only to be told to buy a Shapton pro finisher LOL!

    I have a Shapton 12k that is currently collecting dust in a drawer because I think it’s a lousy stone. The 8k is great. 12k, not so much.
    I recently switched from the Pro 8 to the 12 and still not sure it was worth it. I think the level of sharpness seems a bit better, but I find the 12 loads more and it might somehow be not as hard, which doesn’t make sense. I like the idea of keeping the slurry on there or using a nigara stone as I’ve seen suggested elsewhere to help with the loading. I do like the Shapton Pros though for all around use and currently use a 1, 2 (important IMHO), 5, and 12. I find they are consistent, easy to use, flatten with the 400 Atoma, and even travel well.

    Thanks.
    Kevin

  2. #17
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    I went with the Shapton Glass stone (16K) for my finish stone because I do not like to soak stones.

    I seem to end up with a sharper edge from that stone than most anything else that I have.

    I really think that your best bet is to find someone close where you can actually try the different stones if that is possible. You already own the Spyderco ceramic so take the time to actually flatten it as suggested by Derek.

    If you go for a natural stone, I highly recommend Dan's.

    If you happen to be wandering out to Columbus Ohio, bring along a few blades and you can try some of my stones.

  3. #18
    You are going to get great suggestions of what to get. I went through a whole gamut of stones - Shapton Pro & Glass, Bester, Arashiyama, King, Gesshin, etc. before settling on the Sigma Power Ceramic for O1 and Japanese steel. I also have a Suherio Rika 5K and a Japanese natural stone for this steel. For A2 & HSS I have the Sigma Select IIs, Soft, Hard, Translucent, & Black Arkansas oil stones, as well as the Medium & UF Spyderco ceramics.

    The Sigma's have have preformed the best for me. Not that the other brand(s) mentioned are bad, it's just that the Sigmas have been better for me. I use the oil stones as well and do like them for what they do.

    You may find yourself trying different brands and/or mediums before settling on the one you like best for you and your type of work. It's a nice journey but it can get expensive.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ken hatch View Post
    Mike,

    I'm a fan of natural stones vs. synthetic for both honing and polishing. For grinding synthetic or diamond work well. I like oil stones and while slower cutting than synthetic water stones when stone maintenance is factored in they are just as fast doing the job. My favorite polishing stone is a medium hard JNAT. The steel used in your cutters is a factor, all my cutters are high carbon steel.

    I know dancing around your question but if I had to give an answer it would be find a stone dealer you can trust and get a JNAT for finishing. Even with a good dealer you might end up kissing a few frogs but it could be worth it.

    Drive to Tucson, I'll buy the beer, and spend a day or two with my stones. I've way too many of just about each kind, then you should be able to make an informed decision.

    ken

    ken
    Ken, turns out it's 408 miles from San Diego to Tucson – just enough time to listen to my favorite BB King and Asleep at the Wheel albums. However I'm thinking Mrs. McBubba might not be thrilled to have a fat, old guy with Cholula stained shirt and a bottle of Woodford's Reserve in his hands show up at her door!

    Just out of curiosity, where could I find one of these "medium hard JNATS" you speak of?

    Cheers, Mike

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Mike, if you liked the Pro Shapton 12000, get another. I much prefer the Sigma 13000. The Sigma version sold by Lee Valley is perfectly good, excellent in fact if Stu's comments are to be taken as the last work here.

    From an old thread: "The Sigma Select II LV has (and not all the grits) are designed specifically for tough steels like powder metal and High speed steel. They chew through less tough steels in the same manner, and in my very limited experience may get the job done faster and easier than even diamonds manage."

    If you are having difficulty flattening your Spyderco, then you are not experiencing anything new I needed a new coarse diamond stone over 15 minutes to do the job both a Medium and an Ultra Fine. However, they have remained flat over 8 years now (I check periodically).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    thanks Derek – super relevant and helpful feedback. Glad to know I'm not the only one having difficulty getting my Spyderco UF stone flat– time to resort to coarser abrasives!

    I've used up both Pro Shapton 12,000 most recently and previously the Sigma 13,000, but can't remember why I switched (Probably no good reason other than trying something new in search of Nirvana). How does the Sigma compare with regard to risk of gouging, versus the Shapton Pro? That was really my only material concern with the Shapton.

    Thanks in advance for sharing your insight.

    Best, Mike

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    I recommend the Shapton Pro. I’m on my third Cream colored polishing stone I guess it’s the 12k?
    I don’t soak mine but use a lot of water. I also store them at a angle to dry and glue the cream one to a piece of glass when it starts getting thinner.
    Heres my sharpening station.
    Thanks AJ. Love your sharpening set up – seems simple and efficient – kinda Californian zen. Also appreciate your suggestion about gluing stone to a glass plate. I glue all my stones to wooden blocks, but that really hasn't kept them from cracking as they get thinner. I'm going to try your idea.

    Best, Mike

  7. #22
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    Thanks to everyone for sharing your experience, advice and suggestions! For me this is a great example of what a tremendous resource SMC is – it's awesome to be able to tap into the collective knowledge/experience of like-minded hand tool woodworkers to better understand such a fundamental element of woodworking based on real-world experience. If something like SMC had existed when I first started woodworking in the late 70s I can't imagine how much time, effort and frustration I would've avoided trying to figure out things by trial and error.

    Thanks fellow Neander's!

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Allen1010 View Post
    Ken, turns out it's 408 miles from San Diego to Tucson – just enough time to listen to my favorite BB King and Asleep at the Wheel albums. However I'm thinking Mrs. McBubba might not be thrilled to have a fat, old guy with Cholula stained shirt and a bottle of Woodford's Reserve in his hands show up at her door!

    Just out of curiosity, where could I find one of these "medium hard JNATS" you speak of?

    Cheers, Mike

    Mike,

    She is pretty tolerant, has to be to put up with me for all these years. Besides I'm living without adult supervision right now, MsBubba is up in Oregon helping a friend with her B&B.

    Damn, Mike you would ask that question. I've been posting a series of posts on natural stones on my blog and someone asked the same question. I pointed him to a dealer I've dealt with and even found a nice stone for a first stone. Wrong move swarf breath, https://www.japanesenaturalstones.co...-lv-3-5-a2048/ it is on its way to Tucson as I type.

    ken

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Allen1010 View Post
    Thanks to everyone for sharing your experience...
    ...Thanks fellow Neander's!
    So, what did you decide on? Enquiring minds want to know.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erich Weidner View Post
    So, what did you decide on? Enquiring minds want to know.
    hey Eric,have a decision but struggling with the execution: I'm going with the Sigma 13,000 and also want to experiment with the Japanese natural stone Ken recommended. Unfortunately both are currently out of stock which frustrates my desire for immediate satisfaction.

    I spent some significant time, effort and sweat getting my Spyderco UF almost flat. Other than the flatness issue I kinda like it – really hard and ungougeable. To my eye, doesn't leave quite as fine an edge as the Shapton Pro 12,000, but a quick strop takes care of that. Guess I'll work with my current kit for now until other options are available.

    Best, Mike

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Allen1010 View Post
    hey Eric,have a decision but struggling with the execution: I'm going with the Sigma 13,000 and also want to experiment with the Japanese natural stone Ken recommended. Unfortunately both are currently out of stock which frustrates my desire for immediate satisfaction.

    I spent some significant time, effort and sweat getting my Spyderco UF almost flat. Other than the flatness issue I kinda like it – really hard and ungougeable. To my eye, doesn't leave quite as fine an edge as the Shapton Pro 12,000, but a quick strop takes care of that. Guess I'll work with my current kit for now until other options are available.

    Best, Mike
    Mike,

    LOL, the reason it is out of stock is I bought it. The stone should arrive Friday. After hunting around for a nice stone and finding one, well what can I say other than it is a sickness.

    The offer to ship one still stands,

    ken

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