Help buying my first bandsaw(s)

[Mike Kees]

Mark it is possible to run a narrow blade on flat tires, kind of like it is possible to limp to a tire shop on your skinny spare tire. Flat tires work best in my experience with blades 3/8'' and wider,and yes I run the teeth off the edge of the tire. If you only have one saw and you need one that does most things well a 17"-19" wheel size with crowned tires will handle all appropriate blade sizes (1/4''-3/4'') better. Once you get to flat tire machines they are geared more towards Resaw and ripping so are designed more for wider blades.

[Mick Simon]

Both of my bandsaws (Inca 20" and SCM S500P) have flat tires. I have the SCM set up for resawing, teeth off the leading edge, but keep a ¼" blade on the Inca running in the center of the tires. The Inca is from 1983 and I've changed the tires once, about 7 years ago.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, On flat tire saws like the MM16, they recommend placing the blade so the teeth extend slightly beyond the front edge of the tire, different from the center tire placement on crowned tires, right? When mounting a narrow blade (1/4") on a flat tire saw like the MM16, where on the tire should the blade be placed?

Yes, and that's where running narrow bands is "more work" since it's nearly impossible to track a really narrow blade with the teeth hanging over like you would with a 1/4" or up band. The few times I've used my 1/8" band (yea, I have one for my MM16), I have to completely re-track the tool. The normal Euro guides are not the best for very narrow bands, either for similar reasons. I do have a "cool blocks" setup for mine, although I've never actually used them to-date.

This is why I typically say that folks who need to "routinely" work with a very narrow band are best served with having a smaller saw available for that work to compliment the larger saw for the heavier stuff. I most often keep a 1/2" or sometimes a 3/8" band on my MM16 and use that for "everything", honestly...but I'm not a frequent band saw user like some folks are.

[John Makar]

I have one of the last USA made 14" Delta cast iron band saws, a special limited run in 2000. Purchased off Craigslist, pimped out by me with add-ons by Carter and Kreg. I love that saw, it is perfectly in character with my shop, but I think you would be crazy to add one to a younger shop. They are noisy, you have to wear ear covers. They are underpowered, even with a 1.5HP limited edition motor resawing more than a couple of inches is a strain. They are completely hopeless on dust collection, even with added ports and nozzles. Parts are now from an old guy down in Florida that sells by paper catalog and the phone, no on-line, no web. Buying a good blade tensioning gauge would cost me more than the saw. I get close without, seldom break a blade, too old to know any better anyway.

I have to believe technology has moved on, probably, hopefully, a considerable distance.

[Jim Dwight]

I plan to buy the last band saw I will own soon. It will probably be the Laguna 14 12 or the Rikon 10-326. I don't have a Woodcraft in the town I live in so I may have to drive a little to get it. I will look at the one place in town that offers this type of equipment and buy from them if they have one of these at a good price. Both these saws have steel frames as opposed to cast iron that needs a riser block to cut over 6 inches. The cast iron type would probably work for me but I worry about rigidity, I want to be able to cut around a foot thick material (to make veneer).

I used to have a smaller home made bandsaw. It did some good work for me. But I want something that can resaw fairly thick wood. But the key project I am going to get it for is a new dining room table. The base I have in mind is curved and made from thick wood. I don't want to try and make it with a jigsaw.

I work on my shop sometimes but get impatient if I do not get something useful to other people done for too long. So I buy tools and make improvements to complete projects, mostly. I'm in the middle of a new built in cabinet 7 feet long with shelves above it for my great room, for instance. I have at least most of the material for it and need no new tools to make it. The bookshelves are up but the finish is drying on six of the shelves as I write this. Base cabinet is next.

[Cliff Polubinsky]

Todd,

I started with a Grizzly G0555 cast iron saw with a riser block. Upgraded to a Rikon 10-325 (pretty much the same as the current 10-326) to get a stiffer frame and more resaw capacity. Now I'm waiting on delivery of a Laguna 18bx. I'm getting more into slicing veneer and wanted a saw that could handle a carbide blade. I don't envision any upgrade beyond this. The saw will go down to a 1/8" blade which is narrower than I've ever used so curves shouldn't be a problem. I had narrowed it down to either the Laguna or the Rikon 10-347 but with the Laguna on sale the $600 price difference decided it for me. It would be hard to outgrow an 18" saw and if later you find you'd like a smaller saw for curves so you don't have to switch blades you can pick up any of the used 14" saws that sell for a few hundred.

At least that's how I see it.

Good luck.
Cliff

[Mick Simon]

I recently was added to the Harvey Tools email marketing list, probably because I'm on the Bridge City Tools list, and started getting their sale specials. The C14 was on sale for $1299, list price $1699. Pulling up side by side photos of it and the Laguna LT14SUV ($1999 at Rockler) which is a very nice 14" bandsaw, they appear to be identical saws other than the blade guides. I prefer the Harvey style guides to Laguna's ceramic guides myself. The specs are the same - 3HP, rack and pinion table tilt, cast iron flywheels, dual dust ports, etc. I would take a hard look at that one if I were in the market.

[Bill Dufour]

Location? If you live in the USA I would buy a used 18-20 inch USA made saw for less then the new powermatic. Not much to wear out on a bandsaw. Maybe upgrade the blade guides. Should cost under 1,000 used for twice the saw. But a bigger saw may be harder for deep resawing as the table will be higher and wood has to be lifted up to that height.
Bill D

[mark downing]

So with a flat tire saw, what are the consequences of positioning a narrow blade in the center of the wheel instead of overhanging the front?

[Mick Simon]

So with a flat tire saw, what are the consequences of positioning a narrow blade in the center of the wheel instead of overhanging the front?

Premature tire wear. I stated in another post that on my 1983 Inca 710 20" with flat tires I run smaller blades (anything under ⅜") in the center or off center. I replaced the tires about 6 years ago because they were hardened and slick, not because they were worn.

[Sam Marrocco]

Todd,
I'm a big fan of restoring and reusing old tools, especially since (I think) they were made better back when. If you're patient and up for it, Delta Rockwell bandsaws from the 1950's appear on craiglist a couple times a month. People overprice them around $800 because they are in demand, especially if they are metal/wood capable with the speed-changing transmission. I stumbled on a 14" metal/wood like that which needed a lot of love for $350. Add $100 in penetrating oil, new lubrication, gasket, some stainless steel replacement screws and bolts plus a complete pull-apart and put-together cleaning yielded an excellent tool that will last (another) lifetime. I would consider it if you're willing to put in the time and have it to spare. Plus, you'll love it all the more.

Sometime I just want the tool and buy it, too

[Bill Dufour]

I don't think they have Craig's list in the Czech republic.
Bill D

[Mike Kees]

Hey Bill ,ever heard of Immigration ?

[Jim Becker]

So with a flat tire saw, what are the consequences of positioning a narrow blade in the center of the wheel instead of overhanging the front?

As Mick mentioned, it can wear the tire if it's done frequently and it's likely going to affect the set of the teeth quicker. While the tires are "soft" compared to the band, there is still going to be pressure from the band tension that can flatten the set on the wheel side of the band. This is yet again why I typically suggest that folks who need to do a lot of work with a narrow band consider the second, smaller saw to compliment the bigger machine and what it does best. But if you're like me and only use that 1/8" band three times in fifteen years...the extra tool isn't a priority.

[Bill Dufour]

Hey Bill ,ever heard of Immigration ?

I was trying to be polite. I bet large parts of Canada have very few used tools for sale? If he lives in those tool deserts maybe new is the only real choice he has.
Bill D.