Yes you do need a burr
Yes you do need a burr
That's Stuart for you. I agree with much of what he says but not all. He apparently has not yet learned the value of burnishinig a burr. Or maybe he want's use to use grinder burrs exclusively to sharpen more and replace tools more often. I'm sure his tools are ok but not for me.
One thing stood out, where he writes: "Conventional scrapers must always have the handle slightly higher than the blade for all wood and grain types, NO EXCEPTIONS." I agree with this except for one exception I can think of, a box scraper with a side grind, usually (but not always) angled a bit relative to the long axis of the tool. This type of scraper is held horizontal and flat on the rest and the sharpened edge pushed straight into a box to make a straight inside surface. I generally use this with a box rest that extends a flat support well into the box which is another difference. It is used gently, cutting a bit above the centerline. I can't imagine tilting it in any direction. I use several types of box scrapers and I did grind one into a negative rake as an experiment but the original works well.
box_scraper.jpg
To be fair, these scrapers are used slightly above the centerline inside a cavity so the edge could be somewhat considered as tilted down relative to the surface of the wood. I do tilt other internal scrapers such as a teardrop scraper; these have a short edge contact length.
Another exception to the Batty "no-exceptions" rule: I use a custom tool ground as a conventional scraper to cut flat-bottomed circular recesses to hold the piece with a chuck. This is also held flat and horizontal on the rest without tilting the handle up.
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JKJ