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Thread: How to restore a straight edge on a cambered plane blade?

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    I have not had trouble getting things square on my Tormek; assuming the sides are parallel to each other. It takes more work if they are not. If you live near Columbus, Ohio, stop by and we can sort it out.

    The real question becomes, how can you just flatten it out? It might help to draw a line that represents straight, especially if you are free handing things.
    I have always seen the tormek as a grinder, to approximate the desired edge, in straightness, squareness and angle. From there, stones would be used to refine.

    If not too radical, out of square is easily manageable with the plane adjustement.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    At this point one needs to determine if the cambering is caused by hollow stones or technique. If the stones have a lowered center, it will require side to side sharpening to make a straight bevel. Even this can fail if there is a tendency of the wrists to flex when moving side to side.
    jtk
    Having already worn out quite a few stones and blades, I "think" my technique is not too bad. Of course, I am aging so I may not sharpen today like I used to, 30 ago

    Jokes aside, I seriously considered putting too much pressure and having poor balance / rocking so I went very slowly and lightly, yet even with a reversed camber (concave) out of the tormek, I end up with too much a positive camber (Convex) out of the stones.

    I admit it’s driving me a little insane.

    Maybe today’s stones aren’t as good as the ones they replaced.

  3. #18
    I've heard a few stories now of folks having diamond plates out of flat.
    Agreed I find having a hollow hone troublesome for that barely noticeable camber.

    Has anyone tried bending these plates flat with a big clamp or two?
    Will the nickel shear off?

    Tom

  4. #19
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    The only difference would be to apply a straight template.
    The point was to consider something like a belt sander, as a grinder.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerome Andrieux View Post
    Having already worn out quite a few stones and blades, I "think" my technique is not too bad. Of course, I am aging so I may not sharpen today like I used to, 30 ago

    Jokes aside, I seriously considered putting too much pressure and having poor balance / rocking so I went very slowly and lightly, yet even with a reversed camber (concave) out of the tormek, I end up with too much a positive camber (Convex) out of the stones.

    I admit it’s driving me a little insane.

    Maybe today’s stones aren’t as good as the ones they replaced.
    Jerome, one of the advantages of working with a hollow grind off a Tormek (or BGM-100 tool rest from the Tormek) is that the grind is straight. On the Tormek or a 180 grit CBN wheel, one can grind to the edge of the steel.

    This sets up a blade for freehand sharpening where the work on the bevel is easier to monitor. Whether one is creating a secondary bevel (by lifting the blade) or working directly on the hollow (as I do), the position of the bevel forming at the edge is easy to see .... more to one side than the other, how much camber is present, etc. A straight and even grind allows one to see all this.

    For the grind needs to be even and straight, the wheel must be flat/dressed, and the arm/blade holder must be parallel. These are usually taken for granted once set up, but I would check yours.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  6. #21
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    First, to address the grinding:
    You can try the Sharpie idea like this: Use the ultra fine point. Mark a thin, even line on the back of the iron using an accurate square. Position the line as close to the edge as possible, just so the "bottom" of the line is uninterrupted across the width of the iron. Then Tormek down so that the tiniest sliver of the line is left. Now you're square and straight.

    Is your Tormek wheel trued? Then it's flat, too, and will produce a straight edge on the iron. Are you using the SE-77? That takes care of "square" (which you said is not your problem).

    Now, about the honing:
    Are your stones flat? Do you press with equal force on both sides of the iron consistently? Do you check the progress after every few strokes with good light and magnification if needed? Do you hone on the pull, the push, a figure eight, or some other pattern?

    To me it sounds like you need to narrow down your variables to one. Get the stones dead flat. Use only one honing pattern. Check often.

    Re: flat stones. I reflatten mine after treating every iron. (I use waterstones, which I understand can get out of flat sooner.) For example, after I draw a wire edge on the 1000 stone, I reflatten the stone. I even do this with the 8000 stone. That is most likely overkill, but my stones are always flat whenever the next iron touches them.

  7. #22
    Jerome,

    If you grind at about 25 degrees it should a very few strokes (3 or 4 at the most) on an 800 stone to get a straight edge at 30 degrees.

    The stone must be flat and pressure put in the centre of the blade only.

    A Eclipse honing guide is very useful or this.
    David Carlesworth

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by david charlesworth View Post
    Jerome,

    If you grind at about 25 degrees it should a very few strokes (3 or 4 at the most) on an 800 stone to get a straight edge at 30 degrees.

    The stone must be flat and pressure put in the centre of the blade only.

    A Eclipse honing guide is very useful or this.
    David Charlesworth
    Thank you David. This is indeed the process I was following but was having issues with.
    My conclusion is both that restoring a perfect straight edge is difficult (given self imposed tight tolerances) and that stones are hardly flat / evenly aggressive when new.

    I have finally reached acceptable straightness once I got my new diamond stones broken in.

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