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Thread: Almost completed dust collection - PICS

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Justice View Post
    Looks great Steve! I am building a new shop and will be tackling this soon. In planning I have been wondering how to stabilize the drops? Since they look to be just out in open space, how to keep them from moving around when opening a blast gate or turning the DC on?

    Thanks
    The duct work up above is security suspended and (presumably) the duct work at the bottom of the non-wall drop is also anchored, either to the machine or to the floor. That pipe is pretty darn ridgid, too...not like snap-lock.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by David Justice View Post
    Looks great Steve! I am building a new shop and will be tackling this soon. In planning I have been wondering how to stabilize the drops? Since they look to be just out in open space, how to keep them from moving around when opening a blast gate or turning the DC on?

    Thanks
    As Jim mentioned, the spiral pipe itself is very stiff and once it is fastened (riveted in my case) to the fittings it is even a more ridgid system. I secured the drops along walls with Unistrut and Unistrut pipe clamps. The 2 for each drop was overkill but also helps to support the horizontal runs above. The drops in the middle of the room have no support other than from the duct above. Again, the fasteners at the fittings seem to lock it in place enough. Overall the system is very rigid and doesn't move at all when the DC is turned on. I used 3/8" rod and ordinary pipe rings to hang the horizontal runs. If I had 1/4" rod dies for my pipe threading machine I would've used that size. Good luck on your install.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    Cincinnati, Ohio
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    I might be wrong, but it appears you've put the DC outside. As such you'll get better performance if you remove the filter, since there is no reason to do so outside, and it will restrict airflow. If it's actually inside the building please disregard.

    Regardless, nice setup!

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew More View Post
    I might be wrong, but it appears you've put the DC outside. As such you'll get better performance if you remove the filter, since there is no reason to do so outside, and it will restrict airflow. If it's actually inside the building please disregard.

    Regardless, nice setup!

    Thanks, I wasn't aware of that. My closest neighbor is a few hundred yards away in line with the outlet. My thought was if noise becomes an issue I could install one of Oneida's baffles or at least leave the filter on to dampen it. I think it was a Rob Cosman video where he states the Oneida baffle was very effective. If noise isn't a problem I'll remove the filter as you suggest.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    How you direct the outlet air will help manage noise. So if you choose to remove the filter, directing the air flow downward rather than outward will help mitigate sound transmission from that vector.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    How you direct the outlet air will help manage noise. So if you choose to remove the filter, directing the air flow downward rather than outward will help mitigate sound transmission from that vector.
    Good point - Maybe pointing it down on a 45 deg. angle would keep the blast away from the DC (dirt below) and not aiming directly at my neighbor. I'll have to fabricate a square mounting for the fitting. I'll check with Oneida, they may already have one.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Mathews View Post
    Good point - Maybe pointing it down on a 45 deg. angle would keep the blast away from the DC (dirt below) and not aiming directly at my neighbor. I'll have to fabricate a square mounting for the fitting. I'll check with Oneida, they may already have one.
    I believe they do...if I'm not mistaken, I got two of them when I extended my filter away from the cyclone in the closet to provide require access to the sub-panel.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Mathews View Post
    Thanks, I wasn't aware of that. My closest neighbor is a few hundred yards away in line with the outlet. My thought was if noise becomes an issue I could install one of Oneida's baffles or at least leave the filter on to dampen it. I think it was a Rob Cosman video where he states the Oneida baffle was very effective. If noise isn't a problem I'll remove the filter as you suggest.
    Nice installation Steve.

    If you do remove the filter, measure your motor current with all the gates open to make sure you have enough restriction.

    I found that the Oneida silencer did help with sound level, the reduction was around 5dBa........Rod

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Nice installation Steve.

    If you do remove the filter, measure your motor current with all the gates open to make sure you have enough restriction.

    I found that the Oneida silencer did help with sound level, the reduction was around 5dBa........Rod
    Not sure I follow. By opening all the gates with the filter removed are we trying to make sure the motor doesn't overload? Also, I can't ever see a situation where all of the gates are open.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,875
    WIth the ductwork in place opening all the gates isn't likely going to be an issue because the duct work itself puts enough load on the machine. What you don't want to do is run the cyclone with no duct work attached. On the backside (filter side) there's less concern. Some folks even up-size there for free flow.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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