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Thread: Cabinet pull outs

  1. #1
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    Cabinet pull outs

    My inlaws just moved and want to get pull outs put into their pantry cabs.

    what slides do you guys use for pull outs? do not need soft close or anything fancy.
    these seem like they would be fine, with the rear bracket.
    https://www.cabinetparts.com/p/cabin...VLS2232-p50024

    planning on using the pre-finished birch ply, dado corners with glue. There will be 16 of these. also considering just buying the boxes. any good source for something cheapish?

    what are you paying for a sheet of 1/2 in prefinished plywood? could be a good excuse to get a track saw

    advise welcome. I am thinking of wop on the edges to keep is simple/quick if i build them. these are pretty cheap cabinets, and i don't want to get too time consuming for this project. budget is a concern as well.

  2. #2
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    also, do you recommend ""the cabinet door store" for the dovetail birch ply drawer boxes? i think i'm going that route, as they only cost about 100 more than the materials will cost me here. i just have to assemble and finish. should i get a price from another supplier?

  3. #3
    I used 10 pairs of those slides for the drawers in my under-bench tool cabinet. They are shallow drawers so they don't carry a lot of weight, but I'm happy with the slides. Seem as well built and smooth operating as any other side mounts I've used.....

    There was a thread here on drawer box suppliers not too long ago; might want to look for it. As a mid point between making them yourself and buying the finished box, you may want to consider buying drawer side stock (I think cabinetparts sells it, as does woodcraft). Prefinished and have the drawer bottom groove milled for you, so basically cut to length and glue together.
    --Certainty is the refuge of a small mind--

  4. #4
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    the material for the plywood drawer stock ends up being close to the same price for the unassembled/unfinshed drawers. and i would have to band it. ug. lol.

  5. #5
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    When I made our pantry cabinet I used KV soft close slides. They have a 100 pound load rating. I have more than a dozen of these slides with no issues at all.
    IMG_8728.jpgIMG_8729.jpg
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 07-22-2020 at 4:23 PM.

  6. #6
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    If the cabinets are face frame you might consider making plywood boxes that just fit inside the face cram the. Make the pullouts to fit in them. Eliminates messing with spacers on every slide.
    Steve Jenkins, McKinney, TX. 469 742-9694
    Always use the word "impossible" with extreme caution

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Jenkins View Post
    If the cabinets are face frame you might consider making plywood boxes that just fit inside the face cram the. Make the pullouts to fit in them. Eliminates messing with spacers on every slide.
    plan is the brackets on the back and a truss head screw in the face frame at the front. box is 1 in narrower than the face frame opening, 1/2 in each side for slides.

  8. #8
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    any pitfalls or common mistakes to ordering the boxes?

  9. #9
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    It depends a bit on what is meant by "pull out". That can mean different things. I have built pantry pull outs for storing canned goods, and others that only stored a mixer. What is being stored and how much?

    SlideOut.jpg

  10. #10
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    this will be mostly dinner ware in one cabinet, and food in the others. a 3 in high drawer box that slides out after you open the cabinet doors. if i order, ill go with the 3/8 or 1/2 bottoms due to plates, glasses, etc. we are putting an extra pull out in, vs how many shelves were there to try to limit the stacking/weight on each one. of course, the food cab gets one less so that one will fit taller boxes etc. im pretty good design/install wise, just have never ordered drawer boxes before.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adam Herman View Post
    any pitfalls or common mistakes to ordering the boxes?
    Yes...not "measuring twice" and checking those measurements three times. Be sure they are accurate before you submit your order since custom made stuff cannot be returned. That said...buying drawer boxes from one of the many reputable sources is reasonably economical and saves a lot of time and work. I tend to buy them "knock down" which saves on shipping costs at the expense of gluing and clamping them up. I'm actually soon to order eight drawer boxes for a project myself.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Yes...not "measuring twice" and checking those measurements three times. Be sure they are accurate before you submit your order since custom made stuff cannot be returned. That said...buying drawer boxes from one of the many reputable sources is reasonably economical and saves a lot of time and work. I tend to buy them "knock down" which saves on shipping costs at the expense of gluing and clamping them up. I'm actually soon to order eight drawer boxes for a project myself.
    what source do you recommend, what is your finishing approach?

  13. #13
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    I happen to use Keystone Wood Specialties as they are here in PA. Since drawers, even knocked down, have a bit of weight to them, it's not a horrible idea to "more locally source" when you can to reduce transportation costs.

    Finishing, shellac or waterborne, depending on the project and if I want a little warmth (shellac) or not. (waterborne) Never use an oil based finish on drawers...they will have odor "virtually forever" which can transfer to anything you put in them.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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