Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Help with Waterlox Original Sealer & Finish

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chicagoland
    Posts
    2,801

    Help with Waterlox Original Sealer & Finish

    I'm using a high quality bristle brush and applying full strength with liberal coats like manufacturer recommends but I can't avoid bubbles that are making the surface look bumpy and rough.

    Any help appreciated.

    IMG_1612.jpg

    IMG_1611.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Goleta / Santa Barbara
    Posts
    968
    Mike, first of all, i assume the white streaks are reflection of overhead lights?? In picture 2 it looks more like grit or sand than bubbles, but it might be my monitor. In real life do they appear to be bubbles of captured air?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chicagoland
    Posts
    2,801
    Yes - LED lights.

    I’m also wondering about debris possibility. I wiped the surface down with a cotton rag with mineral spirits.

    The finish shows a manufacture date of 4/20. It looks clear but could it have debris in it? How would I filter it?

    Could the new brush have debris?


    (Edit: Dropped 3-4 drops of the finish on a glass pie plate (don't tell my wife) and besides couple small bubbles it is crystal clear.)
    Last edited by Mike Goetzke; 07-22-2020 at 8:33 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Hampton, GA
    Posts
    118
    I can't speak directly to brushing since I have always wiped it on. I use a small pad made of old T shirt material. No bubbles and smooth as glass. I'm not a fan of thick coatings so I am probably not applying a liberal coating. My thought is that you may be taking their liberal too literally. You might try making a test piece using thinner coats and see how that works out.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chicagoland
    Posts
    2,801
    Thanks for the comments. Only takes 5 minutes to apply finish to my components so this is what makes this frustrating. I could spray with my HVLP but don't like spraying oil based in my garage/shop plus for so few of parts don't know if it's worth the time to dial in my spray system.

    I did some experimentation with a couple of scrap pieces. Appears with my expensive white bristle brush, high quality synthetic brush, or foam brush causes bubbles. Even tried varying thickness of coat and still bubbles. What I did find out was going to rag application seems to eliminate the bubbles, although, the film thickness is drastically reduced with this method. So I will brush on first few coats and then apply several rag coats (may need to dilute the finish a bit to eliminate all application traces).

    Mike

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    2,667
    Did you soak the brush in some thinner before dipping into the finish? That usually helps prevent bubbles in the first few passes.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Goleta / Santa Barbara
    Posts
    968
    Mike, i am currently using the original on a project and the can does not say anything about liberal amount of application, but i have had this can on the shelf - unopened - for a few years, so the new labeling may be different.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chicagoland
    Posts
    2,801
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick McCarthy View Post
    Mike, i am currently using the original on a project and the can does not say anything about liberal amount of application, but i have had this can on the shelf - unopened - for a few years, so the new labeling may be different.
    0C6C5ADB-871F-41F5-A301-DA79EF8AB056.jpeg

    sorry it’s sideways but look at #3

  9. #9
    Everyone has a favorite way of applying Waterlox OSF, my favorite way of applying is wiped on with a disposable rag, very tight light coats. Generally, OSF flashes off so fast with this method, that dust nib’s are generally not an issue, or much of one.

    Having said all that, kind of looks like maybe your brush is depositing dried bits of Waterlox on the fresh finish from a improperly cleaned brush, or your can is starting to cure and you are depositing bits of semi dried OSF. OSF cures really fast in an opened can, without something to displace Oxygen.
    Last edited by Robert LaPlaca; 07-23-2020 at 7:36 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chicagoland
    Posts
    2,801
    I have never had so much trouble with a finish before but may be taking a few steps forward.

    Used a rag but coats are so thin and the sheen doesn’t seem as good as brushed but acceptable.

    Sponge brushes seemed to add lots of air bubbles.

    Waterlox told me to try a paint pad. This looks possible on a sample but my components are not large areas so don’t know how well it would work.

    I returned the white bristle Purdue brush to Lowes. It was not only performing poorly but kept loosing bristles. When I bought the pad I looked at the Lowes branded brushes. They had a varnish brush that was a white bristle/synthetic blend. BINGO - on my sample. Was able to lay down about 3 mil thick coat without bubbles! Will see what it does on the real thing tomorrow.

    Thanks for all the suggestions.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chicagoland
    Posts
    2,801
    Look at this:


    IMG_1617.jpg

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •