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Thread: MFT top for breaking down panels plus band saw vs sliding table saw purchase

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Jon Steffen View Post
    ...What do you guys think? Anybody have a full sized mft style table to break down 4x8 sheet goods instead of using a table saw or sliding table saw? Anybody enjoying just using a bandsaw and tracksaw, and don't even use a table saw?...
    My 2-cents: The minute you start talking about cabinetry, carcases, etc. the bandsaw moves to the back of the list. The minute you start talking about solid wood and furniture making, the bandsaw moves to the front of the list. That being said, big bandsaws are awesome and I wouldn't want to be without one but it sounds like you have a budget. Since you are trying to prioritize things and it seems like casework is a priority, I would focus on the track saw/table saw scenarios first. Just my opinion. Good luck in your search. `

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  2. #17
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    thanks to all for the ideas/links for parf like mft tops. I'll check out that video. That's something i'm for sure doing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brian W Evans View Post
    You don't mention having a jointer. This is not strictly necessary, but I wouldn't enjoy being without one. I also would not like to be without a table saw - it's just too versatile and powerful. If you're not doing tons of resawing, a decent 14" bandsaw sounds like it would do what you need it to do.

    If you go the MFT-type table route, I would go with 20mm instead of 3/4" just for compatibility with Festool stuff. You also definitely have to have a Parf guide or get a CNC shop to make the holes for you. I don't think you'll get good enough accuracy over 8' otherwise.
    You're right, i don't own a jointer yet, and I know that's something that I really should get.

    I think you may be right that a decent 14" bandsaw will have the capacity to do what I want, I just don't know what brand makes a decent saw that doesn't have drift. Seems like from my reading and from comments like from Keith below, that accurate driftless bandsaws start in the $3k range. I'm sure there are tons of opinions on this as well, western vs european bandsaw, just like there is with table saws.

    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Outten View Post
    I have a Felder FB610 with a one inch carbide blade and it will rip lumber faster then my cabinet saw and just as accurate. I have never had to allow for any drift, the high end band saws are amazing.
    Nice! The $4-6k bandsaws i had quoted before were SCM, i'm assuming similar build quality.
    Quote Originally Posted by Stewart Lang View Post
    Jon, what part of WI are you in? I'm from Wausau originally, still got family there too

    So for 10k I think you're investing too heavily into just a few setups/machines. Unless you're doing strictly lathe work, a bandsaw is only an "add-on" to a cabinet/furniture shop in my opinion. An MFT table setup is slow and limited compared to a true sliding table saw.

    For 10k here's what I'd get:

    Grizzly G0623x Sliding Table Saw - $3375 | I've personally had one, they're fantastic little sliders, especially for the money.
    13" Dewalt DW735 planer with Byrd head - This might set you back $1000 or so.
    Grizzly 8" Jointer - $1000+
    Grizzly 14" Bandsaw w/ 6" riser block - $600?
    Good dust collector - Like a roll-around single or double canister unit. Don't get a cheap mount-on-the-wall unit, get a real one, at least 2hp.
    Benchtop lathe - If you want to get into that work.

    That should set you back 6-7k, and then I'd keep the remainder on-hand to buy things as you find a need, because you will. Don't put all your eggs into one basket until you know your exact needs.

    Of course, you can find higher-end equipment for even less if you shop used. I'd be keeping an eye on the local market like a hawk, accumulating machinery until your shop is finished. That would give you the best bang for your buck.


    EDIT: Keep in mind too, you'll need some good accessories for some of these machines. For instance, the lathe. You'll need decent chisels, maybe 6+, a good sharpener plus attachments, or a grinder, maybe a few chucks. Don't sink all your money into just "one machine" thinking that's all you're going to need. Spend 50-70% on machinery, and you'll end up using the remainder filling in your needs with hand tools and accessories.
    I'm just 30 mi south of Wausau actually! the G0623x was/is in the running.

    You make a great point about not spending all the budget just on the equipment because accessories can add up. I've already got the Dewalt planer and i'm getting a V3000 dust collector, (that's not part of the $10k).


    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Loza View Post
    My 2-cents: The minute you start talking about cabinetry, carcases, etc. the bandsaw moves to the back of the list. The minute you start talking about solid wood and furniture making, the bandsaw moves to the front of the list. That being said, big bandsaws are awesome and I wouldn't want to be without one but it sounds like you have a budget. Since you are trying to prioritize things and it seems like casework is a priority, I would focus on the track saw/table saw scenarios first. Just my opinion. Good luck in your search. `
    Erik
    Well from a projects standpoint you're right. The casework needs to be done first, but I want to make sure if I do get a table saw that it will be a good purchase when i'm done with the casework. I don't want to be kicking myself after the fact that I find out I should have bought a great bandsaw and just dealt with the slow, but accurate cutting of the tracksaw for the casework.

    I know I sound wishy washy and eventually i'll have to be the one to make the call.

    I appreciate all your feedback!
    Last edited by Jon Steffen; 07-21-2020 at 3:46 PM.

  3. #18
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    My Laguna 14/12 ($1100), test cut after sorting out the drift.

    You don't need to spend a gazillion, for a bandsaw, it's just a metal blade turning on two wheels with rubber, well synthetic, tires.

    Watch the blade, at the guides, there's no twisting or deflection.


  4. #19
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    My 1942 Delta 14” band saw does not drift, period. Nor Does my 2007 MiniMax MM20. Good blades (not “Swedish Steel”) a thorough understanding of how a band saw works, and proper settings and maintenance eliminate “drift” permenantly.

  5. #20
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    Just a quick comment on the lathe.

    Why not pick up a used midi lathe, just to try it out and see if you like it? I have bought and sold several for the $200-300 range. Try it, and sell it to get a big one, or sell it if you don't like it.

    You could also pick up some really inexpensive lathe tools. This would be a very inexpensive way to learn to properly sharpen and use them on the cheap, before investing the farm.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Potter View Post
    Just a quick comment on the lathe.

    Why not pick up a used midi lathe, just to try it out and see if you like it? I have bought and sold several for the $200-300 range. Try it, and sell it to get a big one, or sell it if you don't like it.

    You could also pick up some really inexpensive lathe tools. This would be a very inexpensive way to learn to properly sharpen and use them on the cheap, before investing the farm.
    I like your thinking Rick. Playing for 20 minutes on somebody else's lathe might not be enough, I'll start checking around for used lathes.

  7. #22
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    Drift is an issue of setup and/or blade sharpness. Whatever bandsaw you buy, you will need to learn how to setup the saw and eliminate drift.

    I have two bandsaws and a slider. The slider is a fantastic tool for cabinetry AND solid wood work. My bandsaws are great for resawing and curved work. That being said, if I could only have one tool, it would be the slider.

    I'd look for a used sider...


    Mike

  8. #23
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    I would move the lathe into it's own category. If you are interested then try to find a wood turners club. It's addictive but you will find you will be spending plenty of money on it. You'll also find that you will want support equipment. A bandsaw to process blacks (not needed but makes life much easier), a drum sander (if you want to make segmented bowls, and a sharpening system. Then there's the stuff that you will need for the lathe, a chuck, turning tools, etc). It adds up. The more you do the more things you will want to acquire so you can expand and do more things. A turning club can help steer you in the right direction.

    If you have access to wood (around here the power company and towns will often cut trees into log lengths and leave them on the side of the road for anyone who wants them) then you will want a few tools to go with a lathe. A chainsaw (a cordless one would work well) is almost a must. A 14" Delta clone with a riser block will work for processing wood bowl blanks but something like a BX18 or G0514X2 will make the process much easier. If you stick to small things like pen blanks then all you'll need is smaller tools. Segmented bowls will require a tablesaw and a jointer is nice to have as well. However if you start turning you are going to quickly want to do more than just pen blacks. My personal opinion is people buy the midi lathes and either don't find time to turn or they want to turn bigger projects. That's why I skipped a smaller lathe and jumped right up to one with a 20" swing.

    I would skip the lathe and get all the other tools I wanted and then come back once you've got the "must do" projects taken care of. Chances are you'll have a lot of the tools needed to complement the lathe. I would have a lathe in mind when I did purchase the other tools. That's why I was suggesting going with a bigger bandsaw than the 14" Delta clone.

  9. #24
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    Just as an update in case anybody is interested. I've ordered a Noden adjust a bench "low boy", Not even on the website yet, and sounds like not all the parts have been fabricated either, lol.

    Also ordered some parf stuff to make a top for my bench.

    This weekend i'll be cleaning the garage and setting up the saw horses and plane some 2x4s for a nice flat work surface to build the work surface on (chicken and the egg, lol).

  10. #25
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    Cool, looking forward to the progress. (Pictures, or it didn't happen...)

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisA Edwards View Post
    Cool, looking forward to the progress. (Pictures, or it didn't happen...)
    HA HA, absolutely!

  12. #27
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    I'm late to the conversation but have a suggestion not mentioned yet .

    Forget about a slider and even most of the gear you're thinking/dreaming about for making boxes. Sure , it looks like you have a lot of them to make ; but it doesn't sound like thats' your passion or a line of work you want to get into. So, tooling up to process sheet goods isn't a very efficient use of capital in either the short term or long.

    No one (that I know of) waxes on about how great, square , pretty , or whatever when it comes to cabinet carcasses. Why not just order what you need and want when you need it from one of the businesses that specialize in just that ? They will almost certainly be cheaper per box than you can get to even if you value your time at zero. Ditto with the drawers, and usually the doors too.

    Buy equipment that will allow you to make the doors if you want. A jointer, planer, and shaper or router table can be used on lots of woodworking projects other than making doors. So can a reg. cabinet saw. I'd be looking to spend the bulk of my dough on the tools like the lathe and bandsaw if that's what you think you want to enjoy later. Treat the case work as a business and embrace outsourcing.

    I know it's enticing to think about getting "free" tools because you're going to do x project anyway and I might as well get this . But, that's a collector's mentality.

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