Bandsaw upgrades for handtool user

[Tony Wilkins]

*I know this is a power tool but I’d like it to stay in this section because I need the handtool users perspective.

With my new, much larger shop hopefully finished by the end of the month, I plan to finally finish setting up my bandsaw. It’s been sitting in the garage for six years waiting on me to install the table and do final adjustments. I’d like to say this is all due to the difficulty getting power to it but power tools intimidate me. I think, however, once I move to the new shop then I’ll be ready to actually use the blasted thing.

It is a Grizzly 14” deluxe 30th anniversary model (G0555lanv). I have the original blade that came with it on it and I bought a new blade that was recommended at the time — though I don’t remember the new blade and only the Lord knows where in the garage it is.

I am wondering if there are any improvements/upgrades I should invest in? For instance, I have had a Kreg replacement fence in my Lee Valley wishlist for years now because I saw that they have a resawing attachment.

I plan on mostly using it for long rips and resawing so should I have different blades?

[Curt Putnam]

I'm really interested in seeing the answers you get. As a clear bandsaw noob, I am betting on a carbide tipped blade. Note that edge of a board ripped on the BS will not be as good as you can get from a table or track saw. OTOH, pausing in the middle of a rip on the BS has little more effect than pausing while using a Disston D-8. Cannot help with the fence question as my griz came with a resaw fence.

[alan west]

I put on a kreg fence and the micro adjust. I use the band saw for the two cheek cuts when I have more than six tenons to cut in a project. With the micro adjust I can dial in the cut for a perfect fitting tenon every time if the stock is all the same thickness. I then use hand tools to finish the tenon after the two cheek cuts on the band saw. Huge time saver

[ken hatch]

Tony,

If the saw is set up correctly a re-saw fence (I assume you are talking about a fence with a bump in the middle) is not needed. Carbide tipped blades will last longer, most of the time enough longer to pay for the cost difference if you get full life from each blade. But there is a big premium and at first I wouldn't go that way. Highland Woodworking's Wood Slicer is a good reasonable priced bandsaw blade. You want a 3-4 TPI variable pitch, for your size saw 1/2" wide will work.

Band saws are pretty simple and while I do not know your saw, Grizzly fences are pretty good, in fact I have a Grizzly replacement fence on my 18" saw.

I would just set the saw up and put it to work. If after working with it for awhile you find something that drives you to barking at the moon, change it but I expect there is not much you need to do other than keep a sharp blade with correct tooth pattern for what you are trying to do on the saw.

ken

P.S. of all the machines in my shop the band saw will be the last to go.

[David Dalzell]

I have a Grizzly19" bandsaw. It is about 10 or so years old. I mainly use it for resawing cherry, walnut and PO Cedar, but also for other tasks. I love it. I, many years ago, tried to use the blade that came with the saw. That blade was a complete piece of junk. It is long gone. My blade length is 143". I mainly use Timber Wolf 3/8" blades for normal cutting and WoodSlicer 3/4" blades for resawing. I have had no trouble with either of the blades the way I use them. It is important that you tune the bandsaw before using it. A one time affair and then the occasional checkup and, if needed, tweeking. Align the upper and lower wheels, insure the blade guides are set correctly, correct blade tension, etc. There are many good descriptions on how to do this. I don't know if I got lucky with the saw, or if WoodSlicer blades are great for this saw, or if it is a result of carefull tuning: but over the years I have never had to adjust for drift when resawing. Though I do check before any resawing task. Not having to compensate for drift is a definite benefit. Have fun.

[Orlando Gonzalez]

I have the G0555LX and I got the Grizzly resaw fence for it. It's Model H7587 which fits the G0555 series bandsaws. I had to switch the cap head screw on the upper guide blade - the one that sticks out towards the fence - to a set screw so the fence could come in closer to the blade. It's a 1/4-20 set screw but I forgot what length I used, maybe 1/2" or less. I was looking at getting the riser kit but I haven't found the need to for it as yet.

[Curt Harms]

True carbide tipped blades yield the best surfaces for resawing but I'm skeptical whether any 14" cast iron saw will tension one as it needs to be tensioned. I'd probably call woodcraftbands.com and talk to them. I've advocated for Supercut bandsaw blades in the past. They're good long lasting blades but it seems like their prices have gone up, maybe because I've haven't bought a new bandsaw blade in a long time.

[Jim Matthews]

I'm about to take delivery on a secondhand Jet 18" after two arduous resawing projects.

My first fixture will be a sliding table after Izzy Swan and "Mr. V", both of YouTube fame.

Of particular interest is squaring rough stock close enough that handplanes can true the faces, quickly.

More to come...

[Robert Hazelwood]

I don't think that carbide blades would be a good choice for that saw. They need a lot more tension and I don't think the Delta 14" clones are up to it. They also are borderline to run on 14" wheels without them breaking prematurely.

Probably your best bet for resawing would be a 1/2" Woodslicer (or Kerfmaster from Spectrum Supply, same thing). Should be easy for your saw to tension and when new they cut extremely well and fast. They dull faster than carbide, obviously, but IMO they last longer than the internet would have you believe. You could also sharpen them in a few minutes with a grinding disc on a dremel.

You can do your rips with the same resaw blade.

Then I'd get a 1/4" x 4 or 6 tooth blade for curve cuts. You can also rip with this.

As for the fence, I've never used the this saw but the fence looks a little dinky. However if it locks down repeatably square and is rigid in use then it will work. You could possible attach a taller face if necessary for resawing.

[Christopher Charles]

My bandsaw would also be the last power tool I would give up. I have an 18" and have a 1" carbide blade that I use about 2% of the time for cutting shop-sawn veneers. Otherwise, I use 3-4 tpi skip-tooth blades. I tried the woodslicer and found that they did not last long at all (and in fact 2 broke at the weld but probably just a bad batch). I'd say the best bang for buck are the Lenox bimetal blades, which I've ordered from Woodcraft Blades in NC (not the big woodcraft-this sounds like a one-person shop and they only take orders over the phone). They are about $60 each for a 150" blade and last a long time.

Otherwise, I'd say no upgrades are necessary. There is a great bandsaw book out there (by Mark Duginski?), which I would definitely recommend. Best of luck.