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Thread: Dream machine acquired - SCM L’invicibile S50 planer

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    Erik,

    Do you have any history on SCM as a company, specifically on the L’invicibile line of this era? I’ve tried searching online for more general SCM knowledge of this vintage and am coming up mostly empty.

    Do you have any leads on where I might look for and find a manual / original sales sheets, etc for this machine?
    Phillip, I know a little about SCM Group as a company...

    OK, far as manuals or documentation, unfortunately nonexistent due to the vintage of your machine. All that early iron was sold through a dealer network and dealers are notoriously terrible at offering any type of support or resources once they drop or discontinue a certain line. As terrific as the parts folks at SCM Group-North America are, they’re probably not going to be able to offer anything in terms of support for a machine that old. That being said, assuming all the major structural parts are there, stuff like bearings, electrics, belts, etc. can be sourced pretty readily through third-party vendors. So, you shouldn’t have any issues getting it up and running, assuming nothing major is missing. I understand there are some forums out there specifically dedicated to old iron. You might try asking around there and seeing if someone maybe has some old literature. Hope this helps!

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  2. #32
    Joe and Erik,

    Thank you for the details. From the info on the German site Joe linked to, this appears to be a mid-late 70s model. It’s hard to know what specs and details transfer from the European market machines to the US market. The motor HP specs don’t line up with my machine (mine has more HP.)
    Still waters run deep.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    ...The motor HP specs don’t line up with my machine (mine has more HP.)
    The dealers were notorious for ordering Italian machines with all sorts of wacky motor options in the early days. Is it a 60Hz motor?

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Loza View Post
    The dealers were notorious for ordering Italian machines with all sorts of wacky motor options in the early days. Is it a 60Hz motor?

    Erik
    Yes, 60 Hz 230V.
    Still waters run deep.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    Yes, 60 Hz 230V.
    I cringed a little when typing that question. Good to hear.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Duncan View Post
    Hi Phillip, just saw this post and sent you a PM with some info.

    Jeff
    Thank you Jeff for your PM. Your information about the power up and down put me on the right track.

    Happy to report that I think I have the powered table raise and lower function working properly now.

    Just below the hand wheel there is a rubber cylinder that turns on a shaft (connected to the small motor just inside the base.)

    Upon closer inspection, the rubber wheel was spinning but had either worn smaller from use and / or the mounting points had slid down in their slotted holes over time. The rubber wheel was about 1/16 below the hand wheel and obviously not making contact.

    Hopefully this fix is as simple as loosening the mounting bolts, holding the assembly up to contact the bottom of the hand wheel and tightening it back down. We’ll see how long this adjustment holds.

    49C5C1C4-9774-4498-861E-39F31FB5BCD9.jpg

    8C772EFF-9261-4C8D-BDAB-0B7D74B14BB9.jpg
    Still waters run deep.

  7. #37
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    does the grinder have a wheel and is there a jointing stone also? The first step is grinding the knives and there should be a way to lock the head for that operation. The scary part is using the jointing stone for the secondary bevel. That is done while the head is running. Obviously the stone just kisses the knives while you hide under something protective. Dave

  8. #38
    Dave how does the bevel angle work. Ive seen people do the stone thing so then all knives are even but the bevel has no relief. Ive heard the heel of the knife hitting the wood or seen wood sort of floating as it was being jointed.

    Does the secondary bevel gizmo give it a steeper angle for heel relief? Or do you choose the angle of that secondary bevel? If so how far is it run, how many new bevels before the next grind.

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    ...Upon closer inspection, the rubber wheel was spinning but had either worn smaller from use and / or the mounting points had slid down in their slotted holes over time. The rubber wheel was about 1/16 below the hand wheel and obviously not making contact...
    No surprise there. I'll bet it has dried and shrunk. You can probably get it re-coated with either rubber or polyuethane. Someone was just talking about that in a recent thread.

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by David Kumm View Post
    does the grinder have a wheel and is there a jointing stone also? The first step is grinding the knives and there should be a way to lock the head for that operation. The scary part is using the jointing stone for the secondary bevel. That is done while the head is running. Obviously the stone just kisses the knives while you hide under something protective. Dave
    LOL. Something protective indeed. The grinder has a wheel, but I don’t have a jointing stone. Is jointing the secondary bevel after grinding absolutely necessary? I feel like I’ve read some differing opinions on this topic, but can’t recall where or what the consensus was.
    Still waters run deep.

  11. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Loza View Post
    No surprise there. I'll bet it has dried and shrunk. You can probably get it re-coated with either rubber or polyuethane. Someone was just talking about that in a recent thread.

    Erik
    Interesting. Do you remember what thread that was in? I’m skeptical that my adjustment will last forever, but seems to be holding up for now, but some more “gription” on the rubber wheel seems like it could be a good thing.
    Still waters run deep.

  12. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    Interesting. Do you remember what thread that was in? I’m skeptical that my adjustment will last forever, but seems to be holding up for now, but some more “gription” on the rubber wheel seems like it could be a good thing.

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ller-breakdown

    You could also just use a block of wood with some sandpaper to break the glaze in a pinch. Hope this helps,

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  13. #43
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    Replace the old grinding wheel with a new grinding wheel. My understanding is that the bonding does not last forever.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    iGaging 12"

    Quote Originally Posted by Phillip Mitchell View Post
    I’m planning to add a Wixey digital read out. It’s a bit too old school to have one from the factory.

    Edit: on second thought...the Wixey looks like it only goes to 6” height. This planer has a height capacity of 9 1/2”. Does anyone know of another option for aftermarket digital readout that will handle this range?
    iGaging has a 12" one. I have one on a Jet JJP12. I had to get creative with how to mount it but it works well. 2 2032 batteries last about 2 years for me though I don't use the machine frequently. DROs are a good solution to the inch/metric question.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #45
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    For a machine of that quality IMO I would think that something from Mitutoyo or similar level of quality would be called for. It’s a top quality machine, spending a few more bucks upfront to get similar quality in accessories seems well suited.

    I have some mitutoyo digital stuff that is over 20yrs old still working perfectly. By comparison the one time I did buy an inexpensive gauge from a well known company it died in a few years or daily use. That reinforced my perspective that the inexpensive tools just mean that you buy it once, it dies and then you buy a better one later.
    Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 07-25-2020 at 10:53 AM.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

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