Shop makeover

[Jim Becker]

*drywall in above wall assembly should be 5/8” Type X firestop if you’re going for code compliance.

Jim - attaching lath or 2x’s directly to a CMU block was creates a thermal bridging which reduces the overall R value of the system. Bridging is eliminated by attaching the lath to the wall through the foam which also creates an air gap. An additional vapour barrier isn’t necessary with this assembly.

8" CMU’s R1
2" Rigid XPS Foam R10
5/8" Drywall + 3/4" air gap R1

Dave is in Climate Zone 4 so you’d be close to the DOE minimum recommended residential 2x4 wall construction of R13.

Yes, I'm aware of that...I worked to help manage an insulation contracting company for a few years in my past. But this is a workshop, not a residence. The block walls already provide some minimal level of "insulation" due to the air spaces and the majority of comfort factors will be remedies by doing the ceiling properly. 2x4 walls would also reduce the shop space...not a huge amount, but still there...and raise the cost of construction. That may not be warranted with the block walls already there. My MiniSpit easily handles the shop year-round with minimal cost with the way I constructed things. I would, of course, do things "beyond code" (as we did for our major home addition) for a residence.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I put 5/8" plywood on the walls of my shop, with the expectation of putting in French cleats everywhere, but so far, I have just been screwing shelves and what-not to the walls, and it makes it much easier to deal with wall storage.

Doc

[George DeLoach]

I have built four 30' X 30' workshops due to us moving that many times. The one thing I would suggest is to put pegboard on the interior walls. Some don't like it, but I have found that it is so easy to organize tools and other things that it pays off in the long run. So may people have commented on how organized my shop looks and it's primarily due to the pegboard. It is also relatively inexpensive compared to some other options.

[Sal Cangialosi]

Might a lean to be a relatively inexpensive way to free up some space?

[Jim Becker]

I have built four 30' X 30' workshops due to us moving that many times. The one thing I would suggest is to put pegboard on the interior walls. Some don't like it, but I have found that it is so easy to organize tools and other things that it pays off in the long run. So may people have commented on how organized my shop looks and it's primarily due to the pegboard. It is also relatively inexpensive compared to some other options.

Pegboard is kinda a subjective thing. Personally, I haven't used any since the 1980s other than as part of the sound abatement setup in my cyclone closet. I don't like how it looks, don't like my tools exposed out in the open and don't like how it invariably gets broken out. I can see a small section for utility over a wall bench, but I much prefer the cleaner look of cabinets and drawers for shop storage. But that's me...others may disagree and it's great to have choices!

[George DeLoach]

When you get to that point, I would suggest you consider pegboard for covering the walls on furring strips. It is not that expensive and gives you tremendous flexibility for tool storage. I have often been complemented on the organization on my shop walls. If you decide to go that route, the best place to buy the pegs is Amazon. Much cheaper and all I have bought have been good quality.

[Tom Bender]

If you can avoid putting your machines on wheels your shop will be more efficient.

[Daniel O'Neill]

Jim,
What size are your double doors? I was looking for them because I have a 16' roll up that I'd like to reduce to 8' of double doors if possible. I'm not seeing that size though at the big box. TIA

[Jim Becker]

Jim,
What size are your double doors? I was looking for them because I have a 16' roll up that I'd like to reduce to 8' of double doors if possible. I'm not seeing that size though at the big box. TIA

My doors are double 36" doors for 72" nominal full opening. There have been a few times I wish they were larger. I don't know if they are made wider or not or if you need to go to custom or build your own carriage doors. I'd consider the latter if I have to create a new shop in the future because it would permit the doors to be "more wall like" from an energy efficiency standpoint. Check out Mike Farringon's video around his shop built "big doors"