Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 31

Thread: How to “drill” a square hole that is not open in the back?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,492
    Blog Entries
    1
    Another vote for hogging waste with a drill, follow up with a router and template, clean up with a chisel.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Kansas City
    Posts
    2,652
    How about using a 3" diameter hole saw on your drill? That would define a middle section easier to chisel.Then spade bits to start clearing the middle. It would leave some easier corners to chisel. A three inch forstner bit would be hard to control with a drill, but maybe? That would give a nice clean hole, with only the corners to chisel.
    Last edited by Stan Calow; 07-12-2020 at 12:50 PM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    2,162
    Dynamite ,crowbar and a sledge hammer. In that order.
    Last edited by Mike Kees; 07-12-2020 at 7:24 PM.

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Sherwood View Post
    Appreciate the replies.
    A larger bit doesn’t help that much because ultimately I still have the entire perimeter to chisel. Getting the center wood out isn’t the problem.
    If you dont already have one, get a 1 1/2" wide chisel. It will speed that part of your work. I bought mine at a big box store for about $15.
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    1.5 hrs north of San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    842

    Another vote for the multitool

    The vibrating multitool is nice for making straight plunge cuts without any setup effort -- if you already have one. Mine sat idle for a long time until I discovered how versatile and efficient it is. Now it gets a lot of use.

    If you don't already have one, and don't want to spring for one, I guess drilling and chiseling out the corners is the best approach.

  6. If I had a lot of them to do I might make a template and use the router, then chisel out the corners. That said, for two or three I'd probably just chop them out with a very sharp chisel.

  7. #22
    The oscillating multi tools are only about $20 at Harborfreight. Worth it even if you never use it again.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,758
    A jigsaw or Sawzall may help.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,758
    A jigsaw or Sawzall may help.You will need to shorten the blade and go slow.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Charlottesville Va
    Posts
    41
    Tom, there is a post that butts up to the board I need to cut. So no clearance for a jig saw or sawzall blade.
    I borrowed a multi tool from a friend and will try it out this weekend.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Crozet, VA
    Posts
    645
    The world’s smallest CNC?!?
    There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.” - Dave Barry

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    345
    Another vote for oscillating multi-tool. I have a couple of them, one for home and one for work, and a variety of blades. Scribe your line, cut just inside the line with the multi-tool, and then finish it up by carefully paring to the line with a very sharp chisel. If you don't need a perfect hole, the multi-tool may be enough all by itself.
    Jon Endres
    Killing Trees Since 1983

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Griswold Connecticut
    Posts
    6,926
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Sherwood View Post
    Tom, there is a post that butts up to the board I need to cut. So no clearance for a jig saw or sawzall blade.
    I borrowed a multi tool from a friend and will try it out this weekend.
    Chris

    Multi tools are very handy for "niche" applications, and this may be one, BUT,,, they do dull rather quickly, so you will need additional blades, AND, they tend to wander. You would be very wise to make a 3"x3" template to control the tool blade angle and alignment.
    I have used them to cut holes similar to what you are doing when I had to replace some of the 1" thick barnboard and batten siding. Mine were for 4x4 soffet supports. needed to cut through the barnboard, but not the insulation board and sheathing.
    I only had a 1/2 dozen to do, and it took about 10 minutes each. ( I was working on a roof with 9/12 pitch.)
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Charlottesville Va
    Posts
    41
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Cutler View Post
    Chris

    Multi tools are very handy for "niche" applications, and this may be one, BUT,,, they do dull rather quickly, so you will need additional blades, AND, they tend to wander. You would be very wise to make a 3"x3" template to control the tool blade angle and alignment.
    I have used them to cut holes similar to what you are doing when I had to replace some of the 1" thick barnboard and batten siding. Mine were for 4x4 soffet supports. needed to cut through the barnboard, but not the insulation board and sheathing.
    I only had a 1/2 dozen to do, and it took about 10 minutes each. ( I was working on a roof with 9/12 pitch.)
    Good stuff. Luckily I don’t need to be precise. Hopefully one blade will work, but will buy some replacements for my friend who leant it to me.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Charlottesville Va
    Posts
    41
    The correct answer is the multi-tool with plunge cutter. No doubt. With minor chisel cleanup.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •