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Thread: How would you hog out these open mortises?

  1. #16
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    When I look at this photo:



    I see a short cut between the two kerfs. That's why I and Derek are saying fretsaw. There's no need to hog out all that material with a spinning blade once those kerrs are cut, presumably with a bandsaw. That's for the "female" side of the bridle joint. The tenon version is pretty much any way one normally cuts tenons.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
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    If it were me
    Option 1: shaper
    Option 2: bandsaw then HCM

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    A big radial arm saw could do that. I would clamp the wood to the fence for the cuts.
    Bill D
    Want to buy my 16" de walt ras?
    Hi Bill, I'm down 99 from you inland from Visalia. I have two fully rebuilt RAS, one a DeWalt 1400 1Hp and the other a Delta Rockwell turret 30C 1.5hp, both with 10" blades. (Boy, a 16" DeWalt is big!) I did look at both for this operation and did actually consider this. My 12" DeWalt chop saw actually looked a bit safer. Anyway, we'll see how it works.... Randy
    Randy Cox
    Lt Colonel, USAF (ret.)

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    When I look at this photo:



    I see a short cut between the two kerfs. That's why I and Derek are saying fretsaw. There's no need to hog out all that material with a spinning blade once those kerrs are cut, presumably with a bandsaw. That's for the "female" side of the bridle joint. The tenon version is pretty much any way one normally cuts tenons.

    Yes, its 5/8" but, its white oak and 4 1/8" deep and there's 32 of them... And I don't even own a fret saw... That tells you what a novice I am - ha ha. Randy
    Randy Cox
    Lt Colonel, USAF (ret.)

  5. #20
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    You'd only be cutting between the two existing cuts to remove the big piece of waste and it would leave only a little to deal with via a sharp chisel. You can remove it with a bandsaw but that will leave a lot more waste or require a lot of "nibbling" to get it close and then you're right back to the chisel to complete things cleanly.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
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    Jim, I just cannot believe that some want to make this really simple task (which should take minutes) a days work!

    There is a lesson here - there are hand tools that should be in the armoury of all. Chisels are obvious, a dozuki is another to have. And a fretsaw should be on this list as well.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  7. #22
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    I just cut a wider saw kerf in all the ends with my chopsaw. Then I took one board to my 10" bandsaw with a 1/4" blade and went deep in the wider kerf and cut across to take out most of the waste. I will nibble a little with the big band saw and use chisels to clean up. My only issue now is trying to support these heavy 30" boards on the small bandsaw table. I have three roller gizmos, most fall short of the height I need. I'll solve that though, its minor now that I have a plan. Thanks to all. Randy
    Randy Cox
    Lt Colonel, USAF (ret.)

  8. #23
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    https://www.woodworkersjournal.com/m...ints-band-saw/

    Not easy to manipulate something this long without a support (like on a ladder).

    If the BS motor has recovered, it can manage this.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randall J Cox View Post
    I just cut a wider saw kerf in all the ends with my chopsaw. Then I took one board to my 10" bandsaw with a 1/4" blade and went deep in the wider kerf and cut across to take out most of the waste. I will nibble a little with the big band saw and use chisels to clean up. My only issue now is trying to support these heavy 30" boards on the small bandsaw table. I have three roller gizmos, most fall short of the height I need. I'll solve that though, its minor now that I have a plan. Thanks to all. Randy


    Randy, please write back with your experience. But I can tell you now that it is sooooo inefficient. Possibly impossible

    Regards From Perth

    Derek

  10. #25
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    Back to the bandsaw. Set up like you already did, and whittle it out a kerf at a time by bumping the fence over a 16th.

    Basically what you're doing on the chip saw, but it'll leave a flat bottom. And may seem, at least, to be safer.

    Whatever's left in the bottom will break out by hand and clean up with a couple strokes of a chisel, rasp, stick with sandpaper glued to it ...

  11. #26
    A forstner bit would get most of the waste and then you could chisel or use a fret or coping saw to get most of the rest, limiting the chiseling.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post


    Randy, please write back with your experience. But I can tell you now that it is sooooo inefficient. Possibly impossible

    Regards From Perth


    Derek
    Derek, maybe you are misunderstanding what I'm doing. I finished it today, it turned out to be no big deal, just have to do a little chisel cleanup tomorrow. The chop saw (with a support of course) worked as expected, no issues, then used the wider kerf to take to my little 10" bandsaw with a 1/4" blade, cut 95% of the waste out, then to the big band saw to remove the remaining 4% cutting to the stop, with the last 1% to chisel out tomorrow. Maybe it was inefficient, but it all worked in one half day, 32 mortises. I think I overestimated how much work it might be as I have never done this big of a project before. I'm sure you experienced woodworkers can do it quicker and more efficiently... Randy
    Randy Cox
    Lt Colonel, USAF (ret.)

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