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Thread: Restoring Hand Drill?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Restoring Hand Drill?

    Unlike my recent brace acquisition, this hand drill is not in great shape.
    Anyone have advice for how to tackle a restoration. I recently got a jug of evapo-rust and was planning on using that. Right tool for the job?

    This is a Millers Falls ...ah I forgot model number. It says "Yankee" on it somewhere.
    2020-07-07 18.07.47.jpg

  2. #2
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    Anyone have advice for how to tackle a restoration.
    My process is usually to take it apart, clean, oil everything and then put it back together.

    The exception is when all it needs is a few drops of oil.

    If the jaw springs need replacing they can often be made from springs salvaged from discarded cigarette lighters.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  3. #3
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    I restored a similar drill few months back. I took it fully apart. Chuck was full of caked wood dust and rust. Polished the metal parts. Wood handle was in bad shape. Cracks got filled with epoxy and then I painted it. Originally, it was some Dark red color. The red metal wheel part was repainted as well. Took almost a day from start to finish.


    IMG_20200707_232616.jpg

    IMG_20200707_232606.jpg

    Works beautifully now. Don't use it much - I use power drills. When my kid grows up a little I will give it to him.

  4. #4
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    On rust: Acetic acid works for me with heavy rust. I used it on a rusted horse shoe that had bad rust. Few rounds of soaking and scrubbing removed all rust.

  5. #5
    It’s not a Millers Falls, it’s a North Bros Yankee, most likely a model 1530 with the Selector switch on the other side that changes it’s operation. Those switches can become gunked up, so ensuring that operates properly would be the top priority on my list. That will require more attention than soaking in Evapo-Rust. There are plenty of sites, including here, that describes the process. Probably no shortage of YT videos either. They are nice drills, although I’ve found the switch is not that useful to a woodworker. Worth the effort to make them operate as they should.

  6. #6
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    Do a search here. There is a member (Robert Hazelwood maybe?) who did a bunch of them and he did a really nice job. There is a thread somewhere where he answered some questions about how he restored different parts.

  7. #7
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    Might know a thing or two.....
    New Plane Til, opened for business.JPG
    As I have about a dozen egg beater drills, all cleaned up and working like new.

    I tear each down as far as I can.....brass wire wheels to clean all the metal parts, as I do not soak anything. Repaint as needed. Wooden parts are cleaned, sanded, and usually just refinished..
    Big Egg Beater, tear down.JPG
    Drill sorting, final 3.JPG
    These are more like what the North Brothers are known for. They also have a hole or two, that says "Oil".....usually just a drop in each hole, use the tool a couple times, add another drop if needful.
    Drill sorting, GP rehabbed.JPG
    This is a Goodell-Pratt. Usually the only shifter found on an egg beater drill..is to change the speed. To change directions, just turn the crank in the direction needed.
    Shop cabinet Project, keepers 1.JPG
    These do have a shifter for forward, reverse, and locked.
    Eggbeater 1.JPG
    These do not.

  8. #8
    Evapo-Rust is your friend. I restored a No. 2 last year. I completely disassembled it then soaked it, followed by scraping/sanding/polishing and repainting.
    IMG_20190614_165144.jpgIMG_20190614_165125.jpgIMG_20190614_165116.jpgIMG_3297.jpgIMG_3316.jpgIMG_3305.jpgIMG_3301.jpg

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    Might know a thing or two.....
    New Plane Til, opened for business.JPG
    Kind of amazing how much your shop has changed over the years, looking good!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Greg Jones View Post
    It’s not a Millers Falls, it’s a North Bros Yankee, most likely a model 1530 with the Selector switch on the other side that changes it’s operation. Those switches can become gunked up, so ensuring that operates properly would be the top priority on my list. That will require more attention than soaking in Evapo-Rust. There are plenty of sites, including here, that describes the process. Probably no shortage of YT videos either. They are nice drills, although I’ve found the switch is not that useful to a woodworker. Worth the effort to make them operate as they should.

    It is pretty rusted, but definitely says Yankee (which of course is what my North Bros. brace in good shape says so I should have made the connection.) It has the switchero thingie. Now that I looked closer I do see the North Bros. stamping.

    Here are more pictures.

    2020-07-08 22.16.14.jpg 2020-07-08 22.16.20.jpg 2020-07-08 22.16.35.jpg 2020-07-08 22.16.52.jpg 2020-07-08 22.16.58.jpg
    Last edited by Erich Weidner; 07-08-2020 at 11:24 PM. Reason: more words

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven Harrison View Post
    Evapo-Rust is your friend. I restored a No. 2 last year. I completely disassembled it then soaked it, followed by scraping/sanding/polishing and repainting.
    That looks awesome!
    Did you disassemble then soak or just put the whole thing in a tub of evapo-rust?

  12. #12
    Yours is the 1530A, which IMO is the best of the 3 models of 1530 that were released. I don’t know how it happened, but I have one 1530 and three of the 1530A models. All very good drills, but I’ve not yet restored any of them. When Stanley purchased North Bros they released a 1530AX version and, again IMO, it’s not nearly as nice as the North Bros versions. I expect you will be happy with yours, and the different functions of the selector is fun to play with!

  13. #13
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    Erich, I usually disassemble as much as possible first, then soak the individual metal parts. You just want to make sure that the parts are completely submerged...

  14. Quote Originally Posted by Erich Weidner View Post
    That looks awesome!
    Did you disassemble then soak or just put the whole thing in a tub of evapo-rust?
    Thanks, I'm extremely happy with it. I disassembled everything and then soaked the metal components.

  15. #15
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    Mar 2017
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    Forest Lake MN
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    Never used evaporust my self but usually tear it down and soak in vinegar, then wire brush, then wash under water, then a baking soda solution, then dry and oil before assembly.

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