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Thread: Router sled, slabbing table, track saw table, do-all table

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    Router sled, slabbing table, track saw table, do-all table

    I said in other posts, I got a steal on a bunch of white laminated ply and T-Track. I made this new slabbing table for flattening slabs. It also has accessories to make a sacrificial table for the track saw, an infeed/outfeed support, and a low-height work table. I love it, and am sharing it as good for thought- feel free to use or reject any ideas presented.

    Router sled, track saw table, slabbing
    https://youtu.be/GXYFhEw_iFU

    This started as a drawing last Sunday morning. By Sunday evening I had most of it completed. I finished it this weekend.

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    It uses an interlocking grid to ensure table remains flat. It is flat according to my Veritas straight edge.

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    The corners of the grid are 4” to fit the 4” legs snugly. The legs were originally going to be height adjustable. I decided it was too heavy to easily raise and lower. The sides adjust for the height of the slab to set the router sled at proper height.

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    I am headed to the shop now to make an infeed/outfeed table that is a 12” wide beam on adjustable risers that clamp into the front T-Track. Although the T-Track is screwed into 1.5” thickness of plywood with long screws, I’m not sure how that is going to hold a 2x12x96” mahogany timber, but I am about to find out, because I have about 15 of those to plane.

    Will update on progress. The video shows more details. There are 3/4” dog holes into which the plastic things fit that Lee Valley sells. They hold 2x4’s to make a sacrificial table. This is shown in the video. I would drop the side rails or remove them, and the 2x4’s could overhang the sides to make a wide table for dimensioning ply or large slabs.
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  2. #2
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    It worked flawlessly today on a huge slab of Monkey Pod. The Porter Cable 3 1/4 ho router handled the 3” flattening bit in a near 1/4” deep cut with no issues. I put screws as stops to keep the router from traveling too far to one side and crashing the bit. The only issue is the bit I bought on eBay isn’t perfectly flat- it leaves a tiny dip in the middle. No issue, as I am going to joint it with a #8 and smooth it by hand anyway. It took very little time to surface this slab, but the customer wants it 2” thickness for a built-in desk in a kitchen, which means a LOT of planing. I first used a Makita 6 1/4” hand planer before using the router sled. I flattened the bottom with the planer and roughly flattened the top. I am surfacing the top first, then will flip it over and take deeper cuts on the bottom to remove material down to 2”.

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