Ripping on the sliding table saw - use original fence or 3rd party parallel?

[Ned Otter]

Hi everyone --

I've never used a sliding table saw, but will be getting one in the next year. I've read a lot and been in touch with at least one equipment vendor, and am designing a new shop layout.

I hardly use sheet goods, except perhaps for some jigs/fixtures, and in that case, I'd be using smaller pieces. My interest in a slider is related to safety, accuracy, and repeatability.

Since I'll be handling lumber 99% of the time, I wanted to ask members with more experience than I, what approach they take for ripping lumber on the slider. Some say that when dealing with long pieces and/or requiring pieces that match exactly, that the original fence is preferred. There is also the issue of binding when using the original fence.

Others state that the original fence can flex, get sawdust near it, etc., and so that the fence is not that accurate, and they prefer either shop-made or 3rd party parallel fences, i.e. on the sliding portion of the saw. Then there is the question of how you get that first straight edge if you're only using a parallel fence.

I think the original fence will have a wider ripping capacity than add-on parallel fences, but that's probably not an issue for me, since you can still get out to 24" to 26" with a parallel fence from a vendor such as Lamb.


Thanks in advance --

[Jim Becker]

Most of my ripping on my slider uses the wagon...straight lining first followed by parallel ripping using a Fritz and Franz jig. I do rip some smaller stuff or quickie things that don't need the cleaner edge that comes with using the wagon using the rip fence, but I prefer to use the wagon and it keeps my hands farther away from the sharp, spinning, hungry thing...

I treat my slider as a slider and try best not to use it like a North American style cabinet saw which is is not.

[Erik Loza]

If you're ripping solid lumber, parallel cutting attachments (whether OEM or aftermarket) aren't going to be that much help, since the lumber is usually narrower than the width of the slider. Where parallel-cutting devices ARE useful is for sheet stock that is narrow, but long. In my experience, assuming the rip fence is adjusted correctly to the main sawblade and not toed-in, you won't experience any of those issues when using it to rip solid stock. Things like Board Buddies are helpful there. Hope this helps,

Erik

[Jim Becker]

If you're ripping solid lumber, parallel cutting attachments (whether OEM or aftermarket) aren't going to be that much help, since the lumber is usually narrower than the width of the slider. Where parallel-cutting devices ARE useful is for sheet stock that is narrow, but long. In my experience, assuming the rip fence is adjusted correctly to the main sawblade and not toed-in, you won't experience any of those issues when using it to rip solid stock. Things like Board Buddies are helpful there. Hope this helps,

I rarely take issue with anything you say, Erik, but here my personal experience is that ripping with parallel guides/Fritz & Franz is very effective and provides a nearly "perfect" edge compared to use the rip fence. Yes, for long narrow rips like sub-two inches, the fence is a bit easier...I'll agree with you on that...and using the guides isn't as fast as using the rip fence. But I try to rip for quality rather than speed since I'm creating components with the saw...I don't tend to go back to the jointer as a result of that quality cut on the wagon..

[Ned Otter]

Jim,

This is exactly what I'm trying to sort out, partially because the slider I'm considering requires 14' side-to-side in its largest format. I'm trying to see if I can reduce that footprint by getting a smaller outfeed table, or not using one at all. I've got 11.5' to work with, so it will be pretty tight.

[johnny means]

I decide how every rip is done on a case by case basis. Pulling the fence forward of the blade will eliminate binding and make clearing the blade much safer. As said earlier, thinner rips are usually better done with the rip fence. More unwieldy stuff usually gets clamped to the carriage. The biggest problem I've seen, imo, are guys treating the saw like it's just a cabinet saw with a big miter gauge. It's almost embarrassing watching two guys struggle to muscle larger panels over the top of the cross cut fence because they refuse to learn a better way.

[Joe Calhoon]

I have a straight line rip so my slider gets used for mostly solid wood joinery work. I use the parallel fence when high precision is needed on mitered pieces or parts that cannot be sized at the planer. To me the parallel fence would be too much setup for every rip. I use a simple F&F for a lot of rips using the rip fence pulled back as a bump stop. Here is a Instagram post showing ripping out small 5mm X 5mm glass beads using this method. Swipe right to see the ripping.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B5nULujg...d=au6fnuttkeh4

Narrow and wide mitered parts can be done using the parallel stops. Here is cutting some thin mitered barnwood edges for a door.
E44CE3D6-35A6-469F-8513-5D9F30D1892D.jpg
5F839266-A790-4D2C-BC47-508249F87D49.jpg
014A88EE-3AD3-4E18-B262-462141910525.jpg

[Patrick Walsh]

That’s a great idea with the fence as a bump stop on the glass beed.

I’ve always just used sliders to cut two clean edges, I then use rip fence to get my width then back to crosscut to get my length, on big parts or sheet stock that is. On small stuff like that mitered door skin I can usually just pull that off on a regular cabinet saw with or without feather boards or the slider form that matter not on the carriage. And or the shaper but that’s a lot of work for a few rips..

I may be not in the know with the parallel fences having never used them but it seems like way to much setup for something that can be done by just using the rip fence.

I have a straight line rip so my slider gets used for mostly solid wood joinery work. I use the parallel fence when high precision is needed on mitered pieces or parts that cannot be sized at the planer. To me the parallel fence would be too much setup for every rip. I use a simple F&F for a lot of rips using the rip fence pulled back as a bump stop. Here is a Instagram post showing ripping out small 5mm X 5mm glass beads using this method. Swipe right to see the ripping.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B5nULujg...d=au6fnuttkeh4

Narrow and wide mitered parts can be done using the parallel stops. Here is cutting some thin mitered barnwood edges for a door.
E44CE3D6-35A6-469F-8513-5D9F30D1892D.jpg
5F839266-A790-4D2C-BC47-508249F87D49.jpg
014A88EE-3AD3-4E18-B262-462141910525.jpg

[Jim Becker]

Jim,

This is exactly what I'm trying to sort out, partially because the slider I'm considering requires 14' side-to-side in its largest format. I'm trying to see if I can reduce that footprint by getting a smaller outfeed table, or not using one at all. I've got 11.5' to work with, so it will be pretty tight.

I cut my outfeed table down by 16" because the 50" or so caused a space issue in my shop because of an unfortunately located stairway. Once I did that, I could keep my outrigger on full time and not have to crawl under it...which is not something I enjoy with my knees/hips at this point in my life. (Note: this panoramic photo makes the shop space look a LOT more generous than it really is...)

[derek labian]

Jim,

This is exactly what I'm trying to sort out, partially because the slider I'm considering requires 14' side-to-side in its largest format. I'm trying to see if I can reduce that footprint by getting a smaller outfeed table, or not using one at all. I've got 11.5' to work with, so it will be pretty tight.

Hi Ned,

Curious what you eventually did. Did you use the outfeed at all, cut it down, or keep it intact (not sure how that would fit)?

[Ned Otter]

Hi Derek,

I partially solved this problem by not using the rip fence at all, so I didn't install the long metal tube that the rip fence rides on.

But even with that, using the outrigger plus the supplied fence makes me have to crawl under things to get in/out of that area. The outrigger alone allows me enough room to walk around things, so I probably just need a shorter fence.

I did purchase a parallel fence from Lamb toolworks, and a set of AirClamps from Mac (didn't receive the clamps yet).

Still figuring things out here, my equipment has only been wired up for a few weeks.

Ned

[Jim Becker]

Ned, I originally had that "crawl under" problem in my old shop because of how things were arranged relative to a pesky stairwell that took up space and where the saw was located relative to the J/P. My solution was to shorten the right-side table by 16" and that generally solved the issue. I don't know that I could tolerate not having the rip fence because there are times when it's still the right tool for the job, but I certainly don't need one that sticks out a mile to the right! Even with the much more open space I'll have with the new shop building, I may still reduce the right side because it will never get used anyway for cutting.

[Ned Otter]

Jim - I didn't even attach that table, and I still have to crawl under the wagon, so the only potential solution in my case is to shorten the fence that rests on the wagon, perhaps 3rd party.

Mind you I'm not getting rid of the rip fence, the solid bar it travels on, or the table that gets me out to 5 feet rip capacity. Might have a need for them down the road, and they don't take up much space in the shop.

[Ned Otter]

Hi Derek,

In case it helps, I'm attaching some photos of "today's version" of how I'm moving stuff around to accommodate the slider.

PXL_20220402_213605270.jpg
PXL_20220402_213704125.jpg
PXL_20220402_213653855.jpg
PXL_20220402_213603031.jpg

Please let me know if you have any questions --

thx,

Ned

[Kevin Jenness]

Well, everyone finds their own way around the barn, but I would find the lack of a rip fence a real inconvenience on a slider. Even if I never ripped anything longer than the carriage travel, it is extremely useful as a bump stop. You might be able to cut your fence bar and use a tight-fitting plug and grub screws so the pieces could be rejoined in the future. I would probably cut the crosscut fence shorter as well for use in that narrow space.