Ripping on the sliding table saw - use original fence or 3rd party parallel?

[Michael Schuch]

I guess it depends on the rip fence that comes with your saw. The fence that came on my 80's vintage Casedei sliding table saw weighs about 60-70lbs, puts my commercial Biesemeyer fence to shame and is extremely stiff. I would wait until your new saw comes in then evaluate the fence. Just like regular table saws I am sure sliding table saws come with a wide variety of different fences of differing quality and stiffness.

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The fence has a bearing mounted on an eccentric that allows my to raise the fence high enough to clear most saw dust issues.
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My saw has a 52" sliding table. I have just started using the saw and still have to make a sliding table fence for it. So far if the cut is under 50" I clamp the piece to the sliding table. If the rip cut is longer than 50" I use the rip fence that came with the saw. For breaking down whole sheets I still use my track saw.

All the advice I read on sliding table saws kind of boiled down to: don't buy any accessories for your saw until you actually have your saw and have used your saw. Everyone's usage will be slightly different so you need to find what works best for you.

[Ned Otter]

Hi Derek,

In case it helps, I'm attaching some photos of "today's version" of how I'm moving stuff around to accommodate the slider.

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Please let me know if you have any questions --

thx,

Ned

[Kevin Jenness]

Well, everyone finds their own way around the barn, but I would find the lack of a rip fence a real inconvenience on a slider. Even if I never ripped anything longer than the carriage travel, it is extremely useful as a bump stop. You might be able to cut your fence bar and use a tight-fitting plug and grub screws so the pieces could be rejoined in the future. I would probably cut the crosscut fence shorter as well for use in that narrow space.

[Derek Cohen]

Ned, your space is even tighter than mine! I can back my car out to create a reasonably roomy shop space … but only as my slider is half the size of yours!

I agree with others, such as Kevin: the rip fence is an important part of the saw for us. I fear that you are missing out, even if just using the rip fence as a bump stop. For example, it is efficient to straighten an edge on a parallel guide, and then switch to the rip fence to saw to width. This is one set up only.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Becker]

There is a very simple solution to your issue here, Ned...you need to make your shop bigger.

[Ned Otter]

Ned, your space is even tighter than mine! I can back my car out to create a reasonably roomy shop space … but only as my slider is half the size of yours!

I agree with others, such as Kevin: the rip fence is an important part of the saw for us. I fear that you are missing out, even if just using the rip fence as a bump stop. For example, it is efficient to straighten an edge on a parallel guide, and then switch to the rip fence to saw to width. This is one set up only.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek - my shop is 11.5 feet from bottom sill to bottom sill. I can squeeze a bit more space, maybe 4" if I don't have any insulation in the wall cavity. I wanted to be able to handle an 8 foot board on each machine (think garden beds), and the photos show that it can be done. My shop is circa 1860, one structure on an old farm, narrow but long.

I recently saw an interesting video - can't remember where - showing use of a magnetic base as a bump stock. How it was accurately positioned was not explained!

Just beginning my adventures with this equipment, not sure how things will end up, but for the moment, I'm not missing the rip fence.

[Ned Otter]

There is a very simple solution to your issue here, Ned...you need to make your shop bigger.

Agreed !!!