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Thread: Dovetailing Journey

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    Thanks Fred. Lots of good information there. Some of the most effective changes I've made have to do with alignment and marking.

    I made an alignment Jig with fences typical of that shown here by David Barron:



    Mine's not as fancy but it's easy to get everything lined up. I need to make a couple more.
    Hi, I have had good success with all of David Barron's demonstrated methods. The style and look of the dovetails he cuts is quite refined.

    This said, he has some critics here, and it's for you to choose your preferred methods that get you the results you like. I haven't yet seen any finished dovetails where it was obvious to me what methods or subtle techniques the builder used in the process. The point being, once the project is done, the finished results stand on their own however you got there. There is a short book by an author named Ian Kirby which covers some good techniques also.
    Edwin

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    A couple of points:

    Removing the waste, with a coping or fretsaw, spares the chisel edges from significantly more work. You are like to do cleaner work because they stay sharper longer. I prefer a fretsaw as the blades are thinner with finer teeth, and you can saw closer to the baseline.

    If you are snapping blades on a fretsaw, then you are using too much force. The Knew Concepts fretsaw is fantastic, but I can do very good work with a vintage jewellerís saw with the appropriate technique. Here is a video I made ...

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=M6O4rY_0zQs

    I am not interested in the David Barron alignment board. It is good for simple dovetails, such as boxes. However, once you no longer align sides, or ends, then there is a need for other methods. How do you use it for these dovetails? The back panel lies in the centre of the drawer sides.





    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    The edge on the left is common and can be aligned using the fence on the alignment board.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    The edge on the left is common and can be aligned using the fence on the alignment board.
    I think Derek's comment had more to do with the back even though the second photo is showing the front. But I think the answer is the same. I would use the alignment board with the piece over size and then cut/trim the component to final size. But again, this is not to say that Derek's method is not equally effective, as are other methods.
    BTW, check your alignment board from time to time. I found some seasonal changes required mine to be tuned a bit.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    I remove most of the waste with a coping saw now. I had a couple sweet German fret saws but the blades were too fragile for the oak I normally work with, so I sold them in the great tool purge of 2019. I’m tempted to spring for a Knew Concepts saw with a high tension blade.
    Quote Originally Posted by Frederick Skelly View Post
    Do it. You won't believe what a nice tool that is.
    The Knew Concepts fret saw makes my German (and French or American fret saws) seem lame.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    The edge on the left is common and can be aligned using the fence on the alignment board.
    No, you cannot.

    The right side is the lower edge of the drawer front and drawer side. That is the important side to get square and aligned to ensure all sits square and coplanar.



    The drawer back on this drawer sits in the centre of the drawer sides; there is space below for the drawer bottom and space above for a chamfer. How do you align this when marking out?

    I use this wooden square to align the parts ...



    This is especially useful when the mating boards are not square but angled (try and fit that on a Barron jig )



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    No, you cannot.

    The right side is the lower edge of the drawer front and drawer side. That is the important side to get square and aligned to ensure all sits square and coplanar.



    The drawer back on this drawer sits in the centre of the drawer sides; there is space below for the drawer bottom and space above for a chamfer. How do you align this when marking out?

    I use this wooden square to align the parts ...



    This is especially useful when the mating boards are not square but angled (try and fit that on a Barron jig )



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    OK. The alignment board is reversible. The shot below shows both edges parallel and coplanar.


    IMG_0912.jpg

    When I have two edges that need to be parallel but not coplanar. I add a spacer as is shown below.

    IMG_0913.jpg

    Perhaps not as elegant as your square, and ineffective if the boards are angled, but that calls for a different method anyway. Remember, I'm at the beginning of my dovetail journey. I'm not about to shun simple methods that deliver results for simple jobs.

    Hoping I can figure out why these photos always come in at 90* to how I want them
    Last edited by Rob Luter; 07-04-2020 at 7:51 AM. Reason: Typo
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    I remove most of the waste with a coping saw now. I had a couple sweet German fret saws but the blades were too fragile for the oak I normally work with, so I sold them in the great tool purge of 2019. Iím tempted to spring for a Knew Concepts saw with a high tension blade.
    Makes a huge difference. If mine broke, I would order a new one the same day; not very likely to break, however.... especially since mine is made of titanium if I remember correctly. Over-kill I think, the Aluminum would have sufficed. Don't think that you can get the Titanium anymore, I think it was a one time thing.

    Curious where you live in Michigan (roughly). I have relatives in the Milford / Howell area and I grew up between Rochester and Lake Orion.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post

    Curious where you live in Michigan (roughly). I have relatives in the Milford / Howell area and I grew up between Rochester and Lake Orion.
    I live in Northwest Indiana in a region they call Michiana. I’m right on the Michigan border near South Bend. Small world. I grew up in Clarkston, had friends in Lake Orion, and started college at OCC in Auburn Hills.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    I live in Northwest Indiana in a region they call Michiana. Iím right on the Michigan border near South Bend. Small world. I grew up in Clarkston, had friends in Lake Orion, and started college at OCC in Auburn Hills.
    So it really is "Michiana", :-)

    I worked at OCC for a bit; in the admissions department. I am a fan of OCC, I think they do a great job.

    I did tutoring in Clarkston and had friends who lived there.

    If you ever make it to Columbus, Ohio, give me a shout!

  10. #25
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    Rob, a few weeks ago I posted a step-by-step method to keep photos upright. Iím outside on my phone right now and canít look it up, and after a venti summer libation Iím too relaxed to tap it out again right now. I donít know if Iím qualified to post a sticky (probably not), but it would be nice if a moderator would do that for the community.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Luter View Post
    OK. The alignment board is reversible. The shot below shows both edges parallel and coplanar.


    IMG_0912.jpg

    When I have two edges that need to be parallel but not coplanar. I add a spacer as is shown below.

    IMG_0913.jpg

    Perhaps not as elegant as your square, and ineffective if the boards are angled, but that calls for a different method anyway. Remember, I'm at the beginning of my dovetail journey. I'm not about to shun simple methods that deliver results for simple jobs.

    Hoping I can figure out why these photos always come in at 90* to how I want them
    Thanks Bob. I found your post and the method seemed to work OK.

    IMG_0912.jpg IMG_0913.jpg
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  12. #27
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    Hard work seems to be paying off. I think.

    I made one of these this morning and tried using blue tape on the end of the pin board. Epic fail. For whatever reason the tail sockets were oversize. I could assemble right off the saw but there were huge gaps everywhere. I decided a break was in order so I took my bride to lunch.

    When I got back I sawed the pins and tails off my test boards and gave it another go. I paid special attention to getting the pins marked cleanly. Some focused task lighting helped quite a bit. They didn't fit together right off the saw, but nearly so. Just a minimum of trimming and minimal gaps Now if I could just keep from sawing past my baseline.....

    IMG_0921.jpg IMG_0922.jpg IMG_0923.jpg
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

  13. #28
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    Rob, Iím celebrating with you. Nice work. Write the date on the inside of that one.

  14. #29
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    Looking better than many of my dovetails.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    Looking better than many of my dovetails.

    jtk
    Even a blind pig finds an acorn occasionally. Hoping with practice I can maintain this standard.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

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