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Thread: Cutting curves on a bandsaw with a template and follower

  1. #1
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    Cutting curves on a bandsaw with a template and follower

    In another thread, I posted about using a bandsaw and follower to cut repeated curves, at that time, I said that I would document the process next time I used it in a new thread. I learned of the technique in a FWW article by Brian Boggs. In this example, I needed to cut 12 parts for six chairs with a simple curve.


    I used a piece of 1/4” pdf, laid out the intended curve with a batten, cut the curve on the bandsaw, then smoothed the curve with a Stanley #20 circular plane and glued on some stops to hold the workpiece. This is the template.
    IMG_1765.jpgIMG_1767.jpgIMG_1771.jpg
    Then I took the opposite piece of the form, realized that it was too small to effectively clamp to the bandsaw table, glued on another piece for the clamp surface, notched out a small, blade sized section on the curved section, and clamped the piece to the bandsaw table, so that the template can ride against it. This is called the follower-not exactly sure why, not sure how it “follows”.
    IMG_1772.jpgIMG_1774.jpg



    What is slightly different about the approach the I like is that the follower is on the bottom, instead of on the top, as it is in the Boggs article. This simplifies the holding of the follower and also simplies the switching out of work pieces onto the template...no screws, no double sided tape, etc.


    The workpiece sets in the template, and the template rides against the fence to cut perfect curves. Set up time for the template and follower was about 35 minutes, cutting the pieces took about 5.
    IMG_1776.jpg



    You can use the same technique for cutting shapes with complex curves, but the follower needs to be more like a finger, and requires a little bit more English when driving the work piece and template through the blade. Simple curves as above, are just so easy.

  2. #2
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    Nicely done. I have a jig for my smaller bandsaw where I do such things. I can use the routing template at the bandsaw and then step right over to the router table for the final clean up. Simple helpers like these make things go more smoothly, keep us safe and save us time. Thanks for sharing that.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  3. #3
    Good job, thanks for sharing. I really appreciate the technique threads.


    Edwin

  4. #4
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    Useful technique, well explained. Thanks!
    --I had my patience tested. I'm negative--

  5. #5
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    Thank you Scott. This is a technique that I can and will use. I do a lot of curved work and your template with follower will simplify the process.

    Glen- I also like and will use your approach of sliding over to the router table for final clean-up.
    Last edited by Bill McNiel; 06-28-2020 at 1:17 PM.

  6. #6
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    The problem I'm starting to have is that as I'm starting to collect a lot of patterns. Once I make one and it works I want to keep it in case I ever need it again. As I'm learning to build rocking chairs I'm realizing just how many curved parts there are.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for posting, Scott. I now no longer have shaper envy.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the pictures. The "follower" which actually is ahead of the piece and the template is called this because it follows the curve.
    Regards,

    Tom

  9. #9
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    Nice job, and nice bandsaw.

    The "follower" doesn't have to be so large. It doesn't need to be a negative image of the template curve. A narrow board running perpindicular to the blade with the business end rounded to a simicircle, with a notch for the blade, is all you need. As long as the radius of the semicircle is smaller than the smallest radius on your pattern it will work.

    How deeply you set the blade into the notch controls how close to the pattern it cuts. I set it 1/32 to 1/16 and then after cutting on the saw I take it directly to the router table with a bottom bearing flush trim bit.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Hazelwood View Post
    The "follower" doesn't have to be so large. It doesn't need to be a negative image of the template curve. A narrow board running perpindicular to the blade with the business end rounded to a simicircle, with a notch for the blade, is all you need. As long as the radius of the semicircle is smaller than the smallest radius on your pattern it will work.
    For smaller work I agree. For some larger work it may be nice to have a stabilizing surface. This one is just for my 10" saw but . . .

    BS Template Jig (6).jpg
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  11. #11
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    A movie

    Great trick. Thanks for share.

    Perhaps the following video can help some people: https://youtu.be/wycIJa-T-Oc
    All the best.

    Osvaldo.

  12. #12
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    Thanks Scott. Good explanation and helpful photos on a technique that I will have to try out. Thanks to Glenn for the add-on info as well.
    David

  13. #13
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    Osvaldo, thanks for the link. It makes it all clear to me.

  14. #14
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    Ditto Osvaldo, It wasn't quite clear until I saw the video. Visual learner I guess.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  15. #15
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    Once the piece is cut out on the bandsaw, you can take it to the router table and flush trim to the same template.

    Some years ago there was a commercial version. I think it attached to the guide block holder of the saw.

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