Sharpening Japanese chisels

[Jon Snider]

After reading through the past 50 or so pages of the Neander sub forum I’m confused about what are best choices for sharpening some new Kikuhiromaru bench chisels which are waiting for me to pick up at UPS.

Single bevel (25 degrees?) vs double micro bevel

Ok to grind on my CBN wheel before honing?

I realize, in the spirit of discussion of numerous other sharpening threads, there may not be a best single answer, but would appreciate some advice and then go from there.

For context, on my PMV-11, A2 and O1 chisels, I usually use a combination of wheel grinding (if necessary) and either diamond plate or water stones. I do have some ceramic stones on the way to try out. It’s a disease.

thx
jon

[Paul Saffold]

Stanley Covington's blog is filled with wit and wisdom about all manner of Japanese tools. I look foreward to his latest. This is the last of his series on sharpening. https://covingtonandsons.com/categor...ce/sharpening/
If you look around you will see he has his posts very well organized by topic. Though I have but a few Japanese tools, and definitely not professional grade, I enjoy reading and learning about them.
Paul

[Phil Mueller]

+1 on the Stanley Covington blog.

[Andrew Hughes]

I’ve not found it necessary to hollow grind any of my Japanese chisels. I use Shapton stones with the side sharpening method and they cut really fast.
I do hollow grind my A2 Lie Neilson plane blades then stone them.
Look toward the side sharpening method and save the steel that we pay lot for.

Good Luck

[ken hatch]

Tradition has a single bevel and sharpened so the transition between the soft iron and hard steel is retained. Some types of stones and stropping hide the transition as can a bevel that is not flat.

Remember shiny does not mean sharp. Stones that give a smokey polish are highly prized in Japan for very good reasons.

ken

[Derek Cohen]

Jon

You can hollow grind, and you can use a secondary bevel. It's up to you. My preference is the traditional single bevel, freehand honing on a full face. Bench chisels at 30 degrees and slicks at 25 degrees. I use waterstones for all Japanese chisels.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Howard Pollack]

I’ve not found it necessary to hollow grind any of my Japanese chisels. I use Shapton stones with the side sharpening method and they cut really fast.
I do hollow grind my A2 Lie Neilson plane blades then stone them.
Look toward the side sharpening method and save the steel that we pay lot for.

Good Luck

Hi- Do you side sharpen with a jig or free-hand? If you use a jig, which one? Thanks. -Howard

[Andrew Hughes]

Hi- Do you side sharpen with a jig or free-hand? If you use a jig, which one? Thanks. -Howard

Yes I do sometimes the sharp skate. Just yesterday I had to us on one of my very narrow Dovetail chisels. Mostly I don’t need it my hands are trained.
Lucky for me I got learn first hand with Stanley when he was doing shows.
Heres the one I have.

[Derek Cohen]

I have the original Sharp Skate honing guide - before it had a “Mark” ... I think it is in Mark 4 now - and reviewed it in 2007.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...p%20Skate.html

I quite like it for the way it hones, however it is a little finicky to set up. It is one way to learn the rudiments of side sharpening to transfer to freehand. Of course, you can use any honing guide with most Japanese chisels.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Andrew Hughes]

I have the original Sharp Skate honing guide - before it had a “Mark” ... I think it is in Mark 4 now - and reviewed it in 2007.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...p%20Skate.html

I quite like it for the way it hones, however it is a little finicky to set up. It is one way to learn the rudiments of side sharpening to transfer to freehand. Of course, you can use any honing guide with most Japanese chisels.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek what are your thoughts on Stanleys new version 4.
I noticed it ride on a bar of hss instead of wheels.

[Derek Cohen]

Andrew, I have not had the interest to look into the Mark 4. I work freehand 99% of the time. Like you, I may use the SS to restore a flat surface or on a particularly narrow blade (even then ...). The Mark 1 (or the Veritas or the LN) do the job for BU plane blades (which require a specific angle for the micro secondary bevel). My SS has not had that much use that the wheels are worn or that I have thought about replacing it ... only had it 13 years or so

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Chris Hachet]

Jon

You can hollow grind, and you can use a secondary bevel. It's up to you. My preference is the traditional single bevel, freehand honing on a full face. Bench chisels at 30 degrees and slicks at 25 degrees. I use waterstones for all Japanese chisels.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I am going to try oil stones with mine.

[andy bessette]

I have the original Sharp Skate honing guide - before it had a “Mark” ... I think it is in Mark 4 now - and reviewed it in 2007.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...p%20Skate.html

I quite like it for the way it hones, however it is a little finicky to set up. It is one way to learn the rudiments of side sharpening to transfer to freehand. Of course, you can use any honing guide with most Japanese chisels.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thank you for sharing your review.

[Andrew Hughes]

Stanley’s new sharp skate version 4 will travel the blade in any direction over the stone. It’s got me interested I’ll have to save up my lunch money first.
The one I have with wheels only moves side to side.
Id say that’s a significant design change.

[Jon Snider]

Thanks all. Good advice. Does anyone have good sources/links for Japanese water stones? I can find several on Google but no idea of quality and from what I read that can vary a lot.

jon