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Thread: Faceplate screw question

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    2,271
    It all depends on the size of the blank and how out of balance it is. Also it depends on what I'm making. For example if it's a bowl I'll use the inner screw holes on the face plate with longer screws (#12 screws work with my face plate holes) because that part of the blank is going to end up on the floor. I always drill pilot holes and most of the the #12 screws I use are 1" long. But screws bite real well with the species of wood I turn. Softer wood or wood that might be more prone to splitting would also play a role in my decision as to what screws and how many to use. Never had a problem but my first task is to cut a mortise for my chuck's jaws so I can remove the face plate and a slow speed. The screws I use are #3 philips. Since I drill a pilot hole they go in snugly but not so hard that I have to use a lot of force. This is one of those areas where you kind of have to learn what works for you as there's so many variables.

  2. #17
    Based on this forum I switched to sheet metal screws. Used box store wood screws before. What difference. Much much better.

    Do you reuse your screws or once and done?

    hal

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Lummi Island, WA
    Posts
    660
    Quote Originally Posted by Hal Mann View Post
    Based on this forum I switched to sheet metal screws. Used box store wood screws before. What difference. Much much better.

    Do you reuse your screws or once and done?

    hal
    I’ve used the same screws for well over a decade with no problems. #10 and #12 stainless sheet metal screws in a couple of lengths for different size blanks, square drive pan heads. if your faceplate doesn’t have a countersink on the face side, its a good idea to countersink them - it gives the wood fibers that are pulled out when setting screws a place to go and allows the blank to sit tighter to the faceplate. Never lost a blank from a faceplate - end or face grain.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Wayland, MA
    Posts
    3,651
    I've never lost a piece to screw failure, so I'm not sure what the minimum requirements might be. I've never tried drywall screws, as I'm not interested in having 80 lb chunks of wood flying around the shop. For a long time I used good quality "deck screws". I've tried regular wood screws but too often twisted the top off when driving them in after a few uses. I think the quality of modern wood screw metal just isn't up to repeated driving with an impact driver. The last couple of years I've been using #12 Spax screws with a torx drive. The same eight screws have held up through ~100 bowl blanks at this point. They are, as I recall, 2" long, I don't pre-drill the holes. My faceplates have countersunk holes; I don't think using a sheet metal screw that would leave a big gap under the head would be a good idea. On a flat faceplate I'd want a round head or sheet metal screw.

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