Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 19

Thread: Garage Power Requirments for Sawstop and Dust Collection?

  1. #1

    Garage Power Requirments for Sawstop and Dust Collection?

    Hi all,

    I recently bit the bullet and bought the 1.75HP PCS Sawstop 110v, and am super excited to finally own a high quality saw! I went for the 110v as a) i'm unlikely to be cutting thick hardwoods very often, b) the garage is wired at 110v, and c) financial considerations (this saw was already at the very top of my budget, in fact over!)

    I am now starting to look at dust collection options to pair with the Sawstop (I don't currently have anything other than a small shop vac) and from reading a few forum posts it looks like power could be an issue if everything is on one circuit? I don't really know too much about electronics, or even what I need to look for to figure this out (aside from just trying it)? There are only 2 outlets on the walls in the garage, the light switches and the garage opener wired in the roof. No idea if all this is all on one circuit or what the amps are or anything like that.

    Am I likely to have a problem if I was to buy a reasonable dust collector that ran at the same time as the sawstop? Ideally I would REALLY like something that just came on automatically when I started the saw.

    The basement is finished so not that keen to do a DIY or pay an electrician to come out if I don't need to, but would love some advice as don't want to overload the circuit and cause a safety hazard. It may be that I do this eventually down the line anyway as I would like the ability to also run a shop vac as well to connect to the over blade connection hose.

    Thanks for any advice! Andrew

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    1,207
    Hi Andrew,
    If you know where the circuit breaker box/panel is, you could figure out which wall plug/receptacles are on which circuits by process of elimination. Chances are that your 120Vac circuits are on 20 amp breakers. You could switch off one breaker at a time and then check your garage wall outlets to see which ones are powered (or not powered). I would expect that you could run your table saw and a shop vac or smaller portable dust collector from a single 20 amp circuit. Your table saw should have a motor plate (or perhaps in the manual) specifying the current draw and recommended circuit. The same would be true for a shop vac or portable dust collector. My guess is that in a few hours there will be over 20 replies to your thread with very detailed information and suggestions.
    Good luck!!
    David

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,885
    Succinctly: You are going to need two circuits to accommodate a table saw and a dust collector with appropriate voltage/amperage on each for the tools to be used.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Succinctly: You are going to need two circuits to accommodate a table saw and a dust collector with appropriate voltage/amperage on each for the tools to be used.
    Definitely!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
    Posts
    3,499
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Succinctly: You are going to need two circuits to accommodate a table saw and a dust collector with appropriate voltage/amperage on each for the tools to be used.
    Absolutely. If you can afford a SawStop, you can afford to have sufficient power run to your shop. Have a sub-panel put in the shop so there will be ready access for future needs.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Pratt View Post
    Absolutely. If you can afford a SawStop, you can afford to have sufficient power run to your shop. Have a sub-panel put in the shop so there will be ready access for future needs.
    Thanks guys, seems like I just need to get an electrician out to get my shop ready. Was hoping to do without but better to just get it done than have constant problems.

    Thanks

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Lancaster, Ohio
    Posts
    1,370
    I understand the money concerns especially since you stretched way out to get the sawstop.
    Try the using the saw and dust collector as it is now, start the saw first then start the dust collector. Automatic is nice but you don't want both motors pulling power to start at the same time, until you get the electric upgraded. I have my dust collection starting automatically when SawStop, thickness planer, jointer, wide belt sander and radial arm saw start up. Still have to start shop vac by hand.
    Then when you replenish your budget get the electrician out to instal at least a 60 amp 12 circuit subpanel. I don't know anyone you built there shop all at one time with all the goodies, right off the bat. You buy what you need at the time taking consideration of what you can afford at that time. Over the years the real laid out shops take shape.
    Good luck
    Ron

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,512
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Schofield View Post
    Thanks guys, seems like I just need to get an electrician out to get my shop ready. Was hoping to do without but better to just get it done than have constant problems.

    Thanks
    Good advice here and good decision. It can be a difficult decision, especially if you have already blown your budget. Kudos to you for realizing that dust collection is an important part of keeping yourself safe and keeping your machines running smoothly. You have probably read or heard about folks having the circuit breaker trip in mid-cut or the lights dim when they turn on a machine. You do not want to be that guy. As often happens in hobbies or other recreational endeavors, we need to go just a bit further to get it right. Then we can relax and enjoy our time.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  9. #9
    Going to be an interesting conversation with the wife!

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Selzer View Post
    I understand the money concerns especially since you stretched way out to get the sawstop.
    Try the using the saw and dust collector as it is now, start the saw first then start the dust collector. Automatic is nice but you don't want both motors pulling power to start at the same time, until you get the electric upgraded. I have my dust collection starting automatically when SawStop, thickness planer, jointer, wide belt sander and radial arm saw start up. Still have to start shop vac by hand.
    Then when you replenish your budget get the electrician out to instal at least a 60 amp 12 circuit subpanel. I don't know anyone you built there shop all at one time with all the goodies, right off the bat. You buy what you need at the time taking consideration of what you can afford at that time. Over the years the real laid out shops take shape.
    Good luck
    Ron
    Be interested to hear what system you have to automate your dust collection with starting up those tools. I haven't gotten too far down the line of researching my options but all I know is that my space is limited....

    Thanks

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Lebanon, TN
    Posts
    1,722
    I could not run my SawStop PCS 1.75 and my Jet DC (110v) off the same circuit without tripping the breaker.

    When I changed the motor on the Sawstop to 220V/3HP, my electrician friend put a meter on the circuit to see the amps required plus any startup spike. The Sawstop, with that motor, had minimal spike.

    I would imagine the DC will probably spike more on startup than the Sawstop, so if trying them both on the same circuit, I would start the DC, let it run for a few seconds, before turning on the Sawstop.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    10,004
    At the very least run 240 volts to the shop. You can add more circuits later but not unless you have the 240 will it ever amount to much. Look in the house to find the fuse or breaker supplying the shop. Plug a radio into the outlet and slowly unsrew fuses one at a time until the radio is silent. Or if you have them flip breakers the same way.
    What country do you live in and how old is the electrical service. Do you have 240 volts at the meter?
    Bill D

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Schofield View Post
    Going to be an interesting conversation with the wife!
    May I suggest asking your wife's permission is quite different than asking her approval?

    See, you may walk away from both conversations with your head down and feeling defeated, but in one case she think she's doing the right thing, the other she's hurt your feelings.

    Give it a try. Its worked for me for 35 years!! I've never been denied (shop tools, that is LOL)

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
    Posts
    3,499
    Blog Entries
    1
    When determining how big a feeder to run to your shop, consider the following needs for a 1 person shop:
    - Dust collection: a 5 HP collector will draw around 15A - 20A at 240V
    - Table saw, band saw, lathe, or any other large machinery that will only be run one at a time: 3 HP is probably the larges motor you'll have & it is about 12A - 15A at 240V
    - Air compressor: 2 HP is a reasonable assumption, about 10A at 240V

    Dust collection, a large machine and the air compressor may be running concurrently, so you need to add up those loads. If you will be installing electric heat or air conditioning, add the largest of those loads to your total. Lighting can be handled by the existing lighting circuit.

    So, without space conditioning, a 50A panel would be plenty. My shop has a 70A & doesn't come close to using that capacity. At times I've had 3 or 4 people in there using various tools & machinery.

  15. #15
    I have a SS PCS 1.75. I learned that I need a thin kerf ripping blade to make deep cuts, even in softwood. But with the right blade, it can cut three inches deep in hardwood. With a clean, reasonably sharp and thin kerf blade, your saw can do the same things others use 3hp or 5hp saws. But it really needs a 20a circuit. I had mine on a power strip hooked up to my shop vac so the saw triggered the vac. The PCS would trip the 15A breaker on the power strip but the combination almost never tripped the 20A breaker. But the shop vac didn't work well on the PCS. The cabinet would fill with dust.

    So I put in a second 20A circuit (120V) and installed a Harbor Freight 2hp DC. Works fine with the PCS, my CMS, my jointer and planner. I have 5 inch snap lock pipe with gates and use a remote to turn on the DC. The remote cost about $15.

    I think you need two 120V circuits but I would not put in a panel for the shop or 220V circuits unless you are sure you will want tools that need 220V. I could have run a 220V line easily when I added my second 20A 120V and I did not bother. I can do everything I need to do with 2 20A 120V circuits. I've been doing this for nearly 50 years so I am pretty sure what I need.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •