DW 735 Shelix head issue...

[Jeffrey Hood]

I put in a Byrd Shelix head in my DW 735 this weekend... got the OEM version, so I had to take off all of the cutters and put them back on after installation... process went fairly well (other than forgetting to put back a washer and having to take half of it apart again to fix that...) and was installing the cutters with a torque wrench as instructions noted... problem was that I assumed that it was 40 ft/lb, but after about 6 cutters, I thought that things were pretty tight... then I re-read the instructions and found it said 40 IN/LBS... ugh... so I tried to undo the cutters, and got 5 of them loose... the 6th wouldn't come loose, and I ended stripping the T25 head on the bolt... ugh again... I redid the other bolts with hand tightening, and got all of the rest installed, and the planer works great... amazing finish, much quieter, and on the finish setting pine comes out with a glass smooth finish...

So my problem is what to do with the one cutter... is there a good way to get the bolt out and replaced with a new one...? I was thinking of getting one of the screw extractors from HD and seeing if that works with a socket wrench, but I don't want to mess things up more than it is now... I also was thinking that I could just leave it in there forever, as I don't use the planer that often, and most guys seem to get a year out of a cutter edge... and one dull cutter in the next few years might not even be noticeable with the spiral cutters...

Thoughts...?

JH

[ChrisA Edwards]

Removing strip headed bolts can be a bit of a challenge.

For that I would measure the diameter of the threaded part of the screw and then buy a left hand drill bit of that diameter or a hair larger. These bit cut with the drill running in the reverse direction (anti clockwise). Cutting in this direction, the same as would would be doing to normally loosen the screw, often causes the screw to just spin out. If this doesn't happen, during the drilling process, drill until the flange of the head pops off, this will release the tension on the screw threads. At that point you can remove the cutter and the remnants of the screw might be loose enough to spin out or you can probably use a pair of pliers to remove the stub of the screw.

If you are at this point and that screw isn't coming out, if there's enough of the screw showing, you can Dremmel slot in it and use a screw driver.

If this is not possible, a second left hand turn drill bit might be useful.

The extractor kits can be handy, but on very small screws like this, I installed a Shellix head in my 735 a few years ago, it's very easy to break the extractor and then you have a much bigger problem which is why I prefer to drill.

You can get those drill bits from https://www.mcmaster.com/left-hand-drill-bits

Hope this helps.

[Andrew Hughes]

I over tightened inserts on my Pm before I bought a small torque wrench. I’m pretty sure most of the over tightened ones broke. I would be surprised if your insert breaks leaving the screw very easy to remove.

[Jeffrey Hood]

I am a bit concerned about the insert breaking and messing up the inside... or is that not something to worry about, and if it happens, just take the screw out then...? or maybe since the head came with some extra inserts, tap on the insert with a hammer and see if it breaks while not running...?

JH

[ChrisA Edwards]

I would imagine, the threads in the head are probably more stressed than the screw threads. I doubt that the extra torquing will cause it to fail.

And should that happen, the loose insert will almost immediately be sucked into the dust extraction port as that blower is pretty intense.

My gut feel, you can probably use it in this mode for 18 months, before you even need to touch the inserts.

Also, as the inserts are thin and made of carbide, you might be able to fracture that cutter and remove the pieces and the get the screw out.

[kevin nee]

I drive a Allen socket into the messed up torx screw head and try to break it loose.
Good luck,

[Earl McLain]

I drive a Allen socket into the messed up torx screw head and try to break it loose.
Good luck,

Side benefit to that is that it may split the insert, and the screw will then be loose as a goose. Carbide is pretty brittle, and that insert is likely stressed under that much pressure already. I've had a few inserts break while running (my fault--both times trying to handle too heavy a board with not enough support. Broke nothing else in the process, those pieces sure make a LOT of unpleasant noise.
earl

[Chip Seltzer]

You also might consider replacing the screws that you over torqued 12x. In my world as a mechanic, they are stretched and very possibly compromised.

[Grant Wilkinson]

I do maintenance on an old General planer with almost 300 cutters in the head. On occasion, I've ruined a bolt head. A sharp tap on the cutter will break it. I remove the cutter pieces with needle nose pliers, then the bolt is no longer tight and I can remove it with the same pliers. YMMV, but this has always worked for me.

[Stewart Lang]

I agree, just hit the carbide insert with something hard, break it, and it'll remove the tension on the bolt. Much easier than trying to drill out the bolt or something far more surgical.

[Jeffrey Hood]

Thanks for all of the advice... I just called Brian at Holbren (where I got the Byrd head...) about getting some replacement bolts, and he reiterated the same advice that all of you had on here... either let it in until I rotate the cutters (which could be a long time...) or wait for it to split (although he did say that if it hasn't split after running 30 bd/ft or so the other day, it probably won't...) or just tap it with a hammer to break it and then replace it... He also is sending me a handful of replacement bolts for the ones that were overtightened... great guy to deal with, and great service both when I bought the head and now with the bolts... can't recommend him any higher if you are looking to get a Shelix head...

JH