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Thread: Another question about dye finishing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
    Posts
    716

    Another question about dye finishing

    Ed Gibbons in an earlier post (yesterday) had a question regarding dye applications. I'd appreciate a little further insight into my dying problem too.
    I built a Mission (very loosely based) style podium, using strips of Oak which I've machined from various lengths into strips of quarter-sawn, laminated together for the top and base, and similarly for the legs and struts. (A-la-Tom Figden)
    I sanded all the surfaces (after wetting) with 320 grit.
    I tried multiple strips, and finally used a Lee Valley Aniline dye, diluted to 1/2oz to 1 liter of water, applied flowing with a disposable brush. While it came out too dark, I went over it with a water soaked rag and I've lightened up the solution to almost acceptable.
    My question is the lengthwise pores of the non-quarter sawn wood did not get dyed; little areas have non-tinted spots, almost as if there were an air bubble.
    I'd go back over it again with a soaked rag this time, but I'm afraid of getting too dark a finish.
    was it my application, or,how do I correct the non dyed spots?
    Young enough to remember doing it;
    Old enough to wish I could do it again.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,647
    That's a problem with oak; the pores often won't accept the dye. I've had better luck using DNA instead of water to dilute Transtint dye, but I don't know if your dye is soluble in alcohol. In any case, you could seal the dye in place and then apply a stain or glaze to get some color into the pores. By sealing the dye you will be able to wipe off all the stain except what's in the pores so it won't darken it. The only hard part is you'll need to get the color of the stain to match the dye unless you want to highlight the pores.

    John

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Michiana
    Posts
    3,046
    I blow the pores out with compressed air prior to finishing. It makes a difference. I’ve used water and DNA for trans tint dyes. Water works fine. It raises the grain but I lightly sand after the dye application anyway. I blow the pores clean then too, so the gel stain fills them up.
    Sharp solves all manner of problems.

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