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Thread: Question Regarding Honing To The Very High Grit Stones

  1. #16
    Join Date
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    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
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    Yes, there is a difference, both in ease of use, and longevity of the edge. This from decades of experience, and not guessed theory. The first of those decades the super sharp edge was from the difference between a Translucent after the Hard, and later the 13k beyond the 8k.

    It's little effort for me though, these days. All the waterstones are in a rack on the sharpening sink, so the extra effort requires replacing the last stone with the next in the holder, and a few extra strokes, so 15 to 20 seconds max extra effort.

    If I'm in the middle of a long planing session, the edge gets sharpened first thing in the morning, and after lunch, starting at 6k. The majority of the square footage planed on my jobs is either Cypress, or Heart Pine, and almost all cutters are 01. A lot of hours of work is done by hand pushing a chisel too.

  2. #17
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    Nov 2010
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    More good info! Thanks Tom and Jim

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    So Cal
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    I have been pondering this question too. My current sharpening setup is hollow grinding (180 grit CBN) followed by 1200 grit Atoma diamond, medium Spyderco ceramic, ultra fine Spyderco ceramic (I am guessing around 6,000-8,000 grit) ending with green compound on a planed maple board. I like that Spyderco does not need flattening beyond the initial prep. I use them by spraying water with some dish detergent in it. I would like to stay with ceramic stone for the high grit stone.

    I don’t think Spyderco makes anything finer. Is Shapton Pro (16,000 grit) the only other ceramic stone at this grit that is commonly available? Are there other options?

  4. #19
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    Here is something from Mr. Wizard that may clear this up some or it may just make it more confusing:

    Abrrasive Grit Chart 2019.jpg

    It appears there is a Chosera stone that is about the same as the Shapton 10K stone.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  5. #20
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    Well that is pretty cool!!!! Thanks Jim

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Columbus, Ohio, USA
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    I purchased a Shapton 16K glass stone from someone on the forum. I don't strop much, and if I did, this might make less of a difference, but, it seems to make a difference in sharpness from my 5K shapton pro. I probably do not need to do this with all of my blades, but, when I need a whisper thin shaving, tricky grain, end grain, etc, then I am glad I have it.

  7. #22
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    Nov 2010
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    California
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    Thanks for the post Andrew!

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Forest Lake MN
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    Does it make a difference? Yes it does to some degree, does that difference matter? That is harder to answer, depends on the tool and intended purpose. My final step is a strop with white gold compound on it, I suppose in theory whatever progression of stones to get to that level only matters in how long I have to spend on the final strop.

    The extra step of adding another finer stone would be very little additional marginal effort though what those stones cost has dissuaded me, one of these days I will likely buy one though.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Missouri
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    I wonder if it makes any difference in comparing a fine stone to stropping. I can go to a 13000 water stone but I can’t tell the difference between arks to strop and the water stone for most things. I do use the stone for small (miniature) carving tools. The harder surface seems to help with control. After years of stropping I’m more familiar with that routine too.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Pallas View Post
    I wonder if it makes any difference in comparing a fine stone to stropping. I can go to a 13000 water stone but I can’t tell the difference between arks to strop and the water stone for most things. I do use the stone for small (miniature) carving tools. The harder surface seems to help with control. After years of stropping I’m more familiar with that routine too.
    I anticipate that it does not matter for the most part, but....

    Shapton claims the 16000 stone is 092 micron. I think that the Sigma Power Select II 13000 is listed at 1 micron (so essentially the same)

    I am partial to the Formax Micro Fine Honing Compound. You can get it at Woodcraft and it is listed as 0.5 micron. The same is true for the Lee Valley honing compound.

    Is there a difference between using a strop vs a stone? For starters, on what did you spread your compound? My Shapton stones are pretty hard. My strops are generally leather, so they give with pressure. For certain, it is easier to NOT round the edge on a fine stone.

    I have heard that a strop removes less material. Do not know if that is just because it is so fine. If you are stropping without compound, that is something different (mostly).

    I can say for certain that a strop with compound is a lot cheaper than a Shapton 30,000 stone and way more people use them.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Missouri
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Pitonyak View Post
    I anticipate that it does not matter for the most part, but....

    Shapton claims the 16000 stone is 092 micron. I think that the Sigma Power Select II 13000 is listed at 1 micron (so essentially the same)

    I am partial to the Formax Micro Fine Honing Compound. You can get it at Woodcraft and it is listed as 0.5 micron. The same is true for the Lee Valley honing compound.

    Is there a difference between using a strop vs a stone? For starters, on what did you spread your compound? My Shapton stones are pretty hard. My strops are generally leather, so they give with pressure. For certain, it is easier to NOT round the edge on a fine stone.

    I have heard that a strop removes less material. Do not know if that is just because it is so fine. If you are stropping without compound, that is something different (mostly).

    I can say for certain that a strop with compound is a lot cheaper than a Shapton 30,000 stone and way more people use them.
    I use both leather and hardwood with gold or green compounds. There is a little technique to leather for me. Lighter and lighter strokes, same number on each side counting down to one light stroke on each side. I could guess but don’t know that a strop could possibly introduce some waviness to the edge. If it does I can’t tell in use.

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