Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: What HVLP sprayer do you use?

  1. #1

    What HVLP sprayer do you use?

    And what do you like about it?

    Non-turbine.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,694
    QualSpray-AM-6008-HVLP-SPRAY-Package-for-Woodworking-with-PPS from Homestead Finishing. (EBAY Store for buy) I really love this gun to-date. It sprays anything I've asked it to spray, at any angle including upside down and from a detail level small fan to a big surface fan. The 3M PPS cut system is wonderful...and even though the liners are called "disposable", I only use about 2-3 a year as I wash them out after each use. (I only spray waterborne through this gun)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Wayland, MA
    Posts
    3,656
    They seem to offer several variants on this package, the most obvious difference seems to be what looks like a plastic reservoir vs an aluminum one. Does it matter? Are ther eother differences that should be important to a complete newbie to spraying? Most jobs I could imagine doing will be quite small, is the cleanup easy enough to be worthwhile for doing, for example, a couple of bowls?

    I saw you said you only do waterborne with this, do you use something different for, for example alcohol-based dyes or shellac? is the pattern controllable enough for doing a sunburst finish on an instrument?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,974
    Since I'm assuming you're talking about for things about the size of a piece of furniture, my favorite is the Iwata LPH80, with 3M PPS setup. The thing I like about it is the amazingly consistent atomization, and the off the gun finish. Others seem to get by fine with cheap guns, but I've never been able to get a slick, pro finish off of any cheap gun.

    For full sized gun, the DeVilbiss GTI Pro Lite. Make sure you don't get a fake.

    For thick coatings, I use an airless rig, with an FFLP tip for cabinet finishes .

    edited to add: I have a friend that builds custom cars for a hobby. He has a Nice spray booth, and a spray gun "problem". He let's me play with them, so it's saved me a bunch of money in only buying what I like, after playing with his. Quality spray guns are kind of like having a good looking partner. You can never downgrade.
    Last edited by Tom M King; 06-18-2020 at 9:39 PM.

  5. #5
    I use a gravity feed conversion gun by Devilbiss.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,694
    Quote Originally Posted by roger wiegand View Post
    They seem to offer several variants on this package, the most obvious difference seems to be what looks like a plastic reservoir vs an aluminum one. Does it matter? Are ther eother differences that should be important to a complete newbie to spraying? Most jobs I could imagine doing will be quite small, is the cleanup easy enough to be worthwhile for doing, for example, a couple of bowls?

    I saw you said you only do waterborne with this, do you use something different for, for example alcohol-based dyes or shellac? is the pattern controllable enough for doing a sunburst finish on an instrument?
    Mine is specifically with the upgrade to the 3M PPS "disposable" cup system. I actually find that cleanup is easier with this system than with the metal cup. I don't worry about using it for small jobs for that reason...the grids on my current window project are a good example of a quick, small job where I used it. To answer your question about control for things like a 'burst....



    I merely choose not to spray shellac through my gun because shellac sprays beautifully with my older Wagner gun. That makes cleaning a lot easier for me. It's just a personal choice "because I can" make that choice. If I didn't have the older gun for that, I'd cheerfully use the new one for that purpose. I'd also choose it for working with dye if that came to pass...with the 1.0 N/N and dialing things down, it would do a great job with that thin viscosity material, although from a practical standpoint for small things, a quality airbrush might be a better choice.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Roger-
    I have the 3m cup system too (I use a turbine, though). Like Jim, I don't spray shellac or lacquer through it - only waterbased. The reason is that I can clean the gun in the sink and don't have to clean the cup. For solvent-based, I usually spray the gun clean - which would require wasting a new PPS cup or running without the cup. Just a pain.

    I use a cheap Rockler hvlp for shellac and dye and lacquer spraying.

    HOWEVER, for bowls - which I do a fair amount of - I find the HVLP + cup system a little overkill and too aggressive. Too much set up time. Further, too much transfer of finish to and from the storage container, which I feel reduces the shelf life. Far better (for me) is old fashioned spray cans. I will usually do a first, sealing, wipe on coat, sand back, then spray a few coats with the rattle can. These tend to be thinner than what you'd spray in HVLP anyway, which avoids drips and sags that are hard to avoid (DAMHIKT) when HVLP spraying the inside of a bowl. One can will serve 5-10 bowls - even more...

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Wayland, MA
    Posts
    3,656
    Thanks! I'm in the process of refinishing an antique player reed organ that has a lot of ornate carving that has had me wondering about spraying finish once more. My rattle can spraying experience has generally not been happy-- I seem to leap from incomplete coverage to giant drips in about a nanosecond. I suppose a lesson in spray application from someone who knows how might make a big difference. My last rattle can spray lacquer attempt ended up reasonably even but blotchy white. Fortunately it was easy to strip.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,974
    Don't fan the fan. Pretend your arm is a robot arm that stays perpendicular, going the same speed, and the same distance to the surface always. Try half overlap for each pass on a test piece. Distance from surface is critical. There should be an endless supply of youtube videos.

    here is a good one that explains the distance importance: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_56Ah0BnL0M
    Last edited by Tom M King; 06-20-2020 at 9:07 PM.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Roger-
    I have the 3m cup system too (I use a turbine, though). Like Jim, I don't spray shellac or lacquer through it - only waterbased. The reason is that I can clean the gun in the sink and don't have to clean the cup. For solvent-based, I usually spray the gun clean - which would require wasting a new PPS cup or running without the cup. Just a pain.

    I use a cheap Rockler hvlp for shellac and dye and lacquer spraying.

    HOWEVER, for bowls - which I do a fair amount of - I find the HVLP + cup system a little overkill and too aggressive. Too much set up time. Further, too much transfer of finish to and from the storage container, which I feel reduces the shelf life. Far better (for me) is old fashioned spray cans. I will usually do a first, sealing, wipe on coat, sand back, then spray a few coats with the rattle can. These tend to be thinner than what you'd spray in HVLP anyway, which avoids drips and sags that are hard to avoid (DAMHIKT) when HVLP spraying the inside of a bowl. One can will serve 5-10 bowls - even more...
    Hi, when you say cheap Rockler HLVP, are you referring to the $119 Rockler branded one? I'm hoping so, because if that works for shellac, I would definitely pick one up. After using my new Fuji G XPC spray gun with oil based stain, I never want to use it with anything but water base again.

  11. #11
    Any thoughts/experience with the 3M Accuspray system?

  12. #12
    Yes that’s the one. Mine was from woodcraft, but i think it’s the same. I would buy an extra cup/gun for it.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,974
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    Any thoughts/experience with the 3M Accuspray system?
    I have one, and it works fine. I use it when I'm in a hurry, and will just throw the tip away. With the disposable tip, the only cleaning needed is to wipe off the needle. That's worth it when I'm off on a jobsite, but if at the shop, I'll use the better guns. It doesn't atomize as good as the higher end guns, but should be better than most cheap guns.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •