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Thread: remind me again - HVLP (pressurized) sprayable door and trim material

  1. #1
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    remind me again - HVLP (pressurized) sprayable door and trim material

    Remind me again on the list of HVLP sprayable (pressurized cup) interior door and trim materials.

    SW's ProCalssic interior acrylic latex
    BM/Lenmar Ultralaq and Duralaq (although the Duralaq is nitrocellulouse, right?)
    Target ???
    General Finishes Enduro pigmented (white) poly?
    GF "milk" paint + topcoat?


    My preferred primer is Zinser BIN (the real shellac based version, not the new synthetic shellac one).

    4-stage HVLP turbine and I have both cup under and top feed pressurized guns and wide range of N/N sizes to choose from. I've not had any issues spraying enamel-latex paints in the past.

    This seems like a list we should edit up and make a sticky topic.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  2. #2
    Target is EM6500. Docs say can be applied over BIN if it's thinned 50%. BIN is my preferred primer as well, but I am hesitant to put it into a gun since I usually only use disposable brushes etc with it.

    Bruce

  3. #3
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    Duralaq WB is waterborne and sprays great. It comes in clear and white, but can be tinted to any of BM's colors.

    Duralaq Undercoater is their waterborne primer and the viscosity is just as low as BIN shellac based primer, sprays great and clean up is a breeze.

    John

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Duralaq WB is waterborne and sprays great. It comes in clear and white, but can be tinted to any of BM's colors.

    Duralaq Undercoater is their waterborne primer and the viscosity is just as low as BIN shellac based primer, sprays great and clean up is a breeze.

    John
    Curious to know if you've tried Duralaq WB over Zinser (shellac) BIN? I really like the non-grain raising aspect of the BIN vs. other stuff I've tried. Have not tried the Duralaq Undercoater though.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  5. #5
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    The GF Milk Paint (which is not "milk paint'; rather, it's an acrylic) doesn't need to be top-coated unless you don't like the satin sheen. But Target's EM6500 is also satin.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
    I’m getting ready to spray Rustoleum Ultra Coverage. It is waterbased and says you don’t have to prime. It has limited colors but in my first test it dried harder than the Dutch Boy cabinet paint I brushed on. I watched a clip on YouTube from a guy who recommended it. He seemed to know what he was talking about and it wasn’t the usual, “this is my first time painting” video.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Young View Post
    Curious to know if you've tried Duralaq WB over Zinser (shellac) BIN? I really like the non-grain raising aspect of the BIN vs. other stuff I've tried. Have not tried the Duralaq Undercoater though.
    I honestly can't remember if I've used Duralaq WB over BIN shellac based primer. I do know that the Duralaq Undercoater is a great product and did not raise the grain much on my soft maple frame doors. I use it for most of my priming needs now under WB paints because it's cheap, cheaper than BIN, works great, and cleans up with soap and water. For new wood with no knots I really like Undercoater.

    John

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Duralaq WB is waterborne and sprays great. It comes in clear and white, but can be tinted to any of BM's colors.

    Duralaq Undercoater is their waterborne primer and the viscosity is just as low as BIN shellac based primer, sprays great and clean up is a breeze.

    John
    Ordered a gallon of the WB Duralaq tinted in the color I was told to use...
    And a gallon of the undercoater. You were right, the undercoater is much cheaper than the BIN.

    All should be in middle of next week, they aren't stocked at my BenMoore dealer.

    Plan is to spray two more doors with the undercoater week from tomorrow and all three with the acrylic after that. I'll take notes.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  9. #9
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    I think you're really going to like how well they spray. I had the Duralaq White tinted to match the color of SW's ProClassic White for some kitchen cabinets and passage doors I recently made because it's so much easier to spray. The color match was spot on.

    Look forward to your updates.

    John

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    I think you're really going to like how well they spray. I had the Duralaq White tinted to match the color of SW's ProClassic White for some kitchen cabinets and passage doors I recently made because it's so much easier to spray. The color match was spot on.

    Look forward to your updates.

    John
    That's good to know...ProClassic is my standard for trim in the house and while I 'can' spray it, having something more friendly with spraying is a nice thing. What about the sheen? ProClassic satin is more matte than many other satins, in my experience.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    That's good to know...ProClassic is my standard for trim in the house and while I 'can' spray it, having something more friendly with spraying is a nice thing. What about the sheen? ProClassic satin is more matte than many other satins, in my experience.
    I used ProClassic satin for the baseboard and door trim and Duralaq satin for the cabinets and doors. The Duralaq might be a hair higher sheen, but they are really close. If I were even more anal than I already am, however, I could have added some of Hood Finishing's WB flattening agent to cut the sheen. That stuff is another bargain. Something like $30 for a gallon, including shipping. A gallon is going to last me forever.

    If you want the ProClassic formula BM used to tint the Duralaq I think I have it. If so, I'm happy to post it. They created it from a color sample I made up; not something they looked up.

    John
    Last edited by John TenEyck; 06-27-2020 at 12:56 PM.

  12. #12
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    That absolutely would be handy to have, John. Like I said, I don't mind spraying ProClassic if I need to, but it's not the best product for that kind of application.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    That absolutely would be handy to have, John. Like I said, I don't mind spraying ProClassic if I need to, but it's not the best product for that kind of application.
    OK, here's what it says on the sticker they put on the top of the can.

    GY-3
    LE1WB.204 Satin

    John

  14. #14
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    John, what do you use to clean your gun after spraying Lenmar Duralaq? I read the TDS, but want to hear your real-time method.

    I have been spraying BM Advance with a Fuji Q5 and T75G gun, but dislike the cure time required for BM Advance. I have a non-kitchen cabinet project coming up and want to try another product. Duralaq sounds like a nice one to try.

    Thanks!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wakahisa Shinta View Post
    John, what do you use to clean your gun after spraying Lenmar Duralaq? I read the TDS, but want to hear your real-time method.

    I have been spraying BM Advance with a Fuji Q5 and T75G gun, but dislike the cure time required for BM Advance. I have a non-kitchen cabinet project coming up and want to try another product. Duralaq sounds like a nice one to try.

    Thanks!
    Not John, but for me to clean immediately after WB acrylics and latex (and blends) I use household ammonia. About 1/2 of the gun cup is ammonia, the rest water. Spray it through. Repeat if necessary but with less ammonia. Then a cup of water. Disassemble the gun, wipe down stuff and if necessary I'll soak the N/N set in a coffee cup with more ammonia for an hour or so and then scrub. So far, so good. Outside of gun is getting a bit ratty looking because I'm not really cleaning that well. Just the inside.

    At some point I should strip it down 100% and dump everything into a can full of "gun cleaner" solvent for an overnight soak. Then replace the glans and reassemble.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

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