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Thread: Scrap wood bowfront table & what I learned

  1. #1

    Scrap wood bowfront table & what I learned

    My first real attempt at working with a large piece of burl veneer was a bit of a challenge.

    The wood is salvaged from the wood that made the top of a table my brother had. The rest of the table was made of bamboo. It was purchased in CA. I thought it was a mahogany, but I think it is some type of SE asian wood. I've seen similar wood in furniture made in Viet Nam.

    The veneer is Pelin burl, I believe. It was part of a lot of veneer I bought at a garage sale, which also included 6 beautiful, large sheets of crotch mahogany.

    Which brings up the point that this was intended as a prototype for another table using the crotch mahogany.

    Despite the fact I really took time with veneer softener, etc & the veneer looked really good, 2 cracks developed (big one lower right corner). The bookmatch seam separated every so slightly (not nearly as obvious as photo). I'm guessing because I used standard veneer glue there was some shrinkage? I will use hide glue on the mahogany table.

    My second disappointment was that I did not pay enough attention to prepping the top before finishing. It is a bit wavy and I'm ashamed to say on one side you can even see some planer marks.

    The banding was an afterthought. Routing the groove for the curved top was also a challenge, which I addressed by making a jig with a couple bearings to follow the front.

    On the next one I will rabbet the edges for the banding before gluing the solid wood on.

    The bow front was made using the blocking technique and a single 1/8" thick veneer was applied. My first time doing this & I am sold. It saves on lumber and for me is easier than laminations.

    The next challenge was tapering the legs, as they are not square.

    I used a dye stain on the veneer, followed by a couple coats of shellac, and 3 coats of Enduro gloss.

    So that's what I learned. Its acceptable enough to stick in the corner of our guest room.

    IMG_0143.jpgIMG_0144.jpgIMG_0145.jpgIMG_0147.jpg
    Last edited by Robert Engel; 06-16-2020 at 9:53 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Spokane, WA
    Posts
    133
    Looks pretty darn nice for a "prototype"! Thanks for sharing the process too.

  3. It looks great. I always seem to only make one of something, so they are always prototypes. I think you're second one will be amazing based on how good this turned out.

  4. #4
    Looks great. You don't have to apologize.

    There are things wrong with every piece I make.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,222
    Beautiful table. Nicely done. Burl veneer is alway a fun challenge. I’ve not had a problem with shrinkage using titebond cold press glue, but burl is a disaster with a hot iron method. I’m sure hide glue will work well.

    One question; the molding around the bottom of the aprons. Is that an applied molding to the front of the apron and you cut grooves in the legs? Did you find it necessary to steam bend it a bit first, or was the curve gentle enough to just glue and clamp?

    Thanks!

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