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Thread: Help me decide on a table saw

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    49

    Help me decide on a table saw

    All,

    Well I am 2 weeks from moving into my new home where my 2 car garage (approx 20'x20') will be my new "man cave". I'm probably going to dedicate the one side for my woodworking area, and the other side will be for whatever I need it for at that time (working on cars, additional space if I'm doing a big woodworking project, etc).

    I took advantage of the DW735X deal going on ($500 shipped via Amazon, and I believe other big box stores have the same deal) now since it'll likely end by the time I move in. Now my next step is going to be purchasing a table saw.

    I've gone back and forth so many times. I am keeping my eye on the Craigslist/Facebook marketplace, but nothing of quality has shown up as of yet. That's probably option 1 if something comes up relatively soon. I may end up having to purchase new, just because I need to hit the ground running as soon as we move into the new house. The Mrs already has a "honey do" list started, so I have no time to waste

    Projects on the list as of right now consist of:

    Queen size headboard for our bed
    2x matching end tables for our bedroom
    1x end table for our living room
    Key rack & Mail slot holder combination
    2x End grain cutting boards (smaller & larger one)

    My plan is to buy tools kind of as I need them. I am going to hold off purchasing a jointer, as I plan on just making a jointer sled for the planer, and use hand planes as needed. I plan on getting the DW735X planer (ordered already), a quality table saw (contractor or cabinet), and a router & table.

    I don't have a budget per-say, but I don't want to throw money at a saw that is beyond what I need. I've been looking at the Laguna F2 which is on sale at Woodcraft for $1259 + $100 shipping, but I am debating if I should spend a little more and get the Sawstop contractor 36" rip capacity model instead? Currently I would like to stick with a 110v model as I do not have 220v in the garage, and don't see it necessary for what I'm doing.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
    Posts
    1,945
    I'm happy to help you spend your money. The SawStop PCS cabinet saw is available with a 1.75 HP motor that can be 120V or 240V. Dust collection is better than the contractor saw and it doesn't have the motor sticking out the back. Even safety brake aside, it is an excellent saw.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Comfort, TX
    Posts
    233
    I have the 52" SawStop Cabinet saw. Its beyond what you want/nee/want to spend, but the safety factor alone for these saws is worth the price of admission. The quality of my saw is also beyond expectations, and I would make the assumption that all SawStop products are as well. And they are engineered in America, but I believe manufactured in Taiwan to exacting specifications. As Frank mentioned, the dust collection will be far superior. My previous saw was a Powermatic 64 contractors saw and the motor hung off the back. No way to effectively collect the dust. Also, cabinet saws have a different mounting for the trunnions, and you will find the cabinet saw mush more manageable and easier to align. Best of luck on the projects (my guess is you will end up using the full 20x20 space for woodworking)
    Tim in the beautiful Hill Country of Texas

  4. #4
    Get the 3HP SawStop PCS if you have access to 240V. No question.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    1,501
    For new saws Check out the Grizzly 1023 saws. Used Delta contractor or any cabinet saw (Delta,Jet,Powermatic,General.)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    1,888
    It appears you are leaning towards new, but if you happen to look into used contractor style saws, I highly recommend a Ridgid 3650. Mine has been a solid workhorse for about 12 years now. If I upgrade it will most likely be to 3hp SawStop.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Location
    Arlington, TX
    Posts
    185
    OP: A 400 sf garage seems like a lot of space, but you've already mentioned alternative uses for ~half of that space. That puts you into a shop space for which you need to consider getting more than one function from much of your equipment.

    My garage shop is similarly sized, but must (by decree) house the SUV overnight, excepting only rare occasions. So all of my equipment except the wood lathe are on mobile bases, and "parked" in one half of the garage, to be rolled out for work as needed.

    You might want to consider a router table extension wing for your table saw, rather than a stand-alone router table.

    You didn't mention work/assembly benches, or outfeed supports/tables.

    You didn't mention dust collection. If most/all of your machines are on mobile bases, you are probably looking at a mobile dust collector too.

    If your projects involve curved cuts, you might want to consider a band saw.

    When you decide you need a jointer, consider a combo jointer/planer, which will replace your planer too.

    -- Andy - Arlington TX

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    58
    The SawStop looks like a good saw and it has a good safety feature.
    My opinion is it is still very pricey. You can use that money other places if you choose and get the same quality saw for less. A Riving knife and using the blade guard will provide the safety aspects without the expense.
    I had a Craftsman saw for over 20 years and it was good but the Delta Unisaw I recently purchased (cabinet saw) is a huge improvement. I would recommend a cabinet saw for the reasons others have mentioned. There are a number of good options to choose from.
    Last edited by Eric Arnsdorff; 06-14-2020 at 6:02 AM.

  9. #9
    I've had several table saws, including a Jet 52", Bosch, Felder & SawStop. You don't need a 52 fence, get a 36" (cuts over half of 48).

    I learned long ago that sheet goods are very difficult to cut on a table saw, but they are the staple in cabinet construction. The solution was a couple of saw horses and a track saw. I bring my sheet goods home and cut them down in the driveway or store them and then cut them down, with a track saw. They are much more manageable in a small shop space.

    There are a lot of quality table saws for less money on the used market; however, it's very, very rare to find a SawStop for sale. I watched CL for over two years in the Seattle area and only saw like 2 or 3. And the prices were almost like buying a new one, due to demand.

    Great saw. I have a 36 with 3hp.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Elizabethtown, PA
    Posts
    49
    There is a woodcraft in Harrisburg, you can save shipping by picking stuff up at the store. The Ridgid 4512 is a good saw for the money. I was going to buy one, but lucked into a used Ridgid 3612 for $225. Finding deals on craigslist/ facebook market place can be had, but you have to look all the time. I think the concept of the sawstop is awesome, but the price is very high, the contractor saw is just too expensive. There isn't a price for your fingers, BUT.... a lot can be said for common sense in the workshop and paying attention to the task at hand. The old adage of keeping your hand where they belong will keep you safe.

  11. #11
    1.75 HP Sawstop 36" T-glide fence is $2619 + tax with local pickup. Definately reccomend a cabinet saw, definately reccomend a riving knife. I was looking hard at the Grizzly 1023 before I decided on a Sawstop. If I did it again I would go with the Sawstop I mentioned. 52" cut hasn't been that useful and takes more room, 3HP probably isn't needed for me either. 1.75 HP will plug in to any 110V outlet. I've heard that the Sawstop 30" fence is not nearly as good as the 36 or 52". 52" might be more useful if putting a router on that end.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    1,153
    Not a big fan of Sawstop for the politics it has attached to it and he would never ever get a dollar of my money. You may want to take a look at the Laguana line of tools. They are well built. Yes they do not have the break the saw blade break system but jigs and safety precautions have worked well for so many years. Many other tools in a shop that can bite you just as bad as a tablesaw.
    John T.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Okotoks AB
    Posts
    1,945
    Even without the blade brake, the SawStop PCS is an excellent saw. Fit, finish and customer support are higher than any of the competitive saws I looked at when shopping. And that includes the generic Asian machines, Laguna, Delta, and Powermatic.

    If Steve Gass's politics are not to your liking, then it's a moot point, cause he's got nothing to do with the company anymore.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    52,853
    While I'm also not a fan-boi of SawStop's inventor, the company is now owned by Festool's parent company.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Marquette MI
    Posts
    522
    I agree with Frank Pratt's advice - get a SawStop PCS with the 1.75 hp motor. I would add that you should get the SawStop Industrial mobile base so that you can easily move the saw. The Industrial mobile base, while more expensive is a vast improvement over the Professional mobile base.
    Last edited by Robert Chapman; 06-15-2020 at 8:31 PM. Reason: spelling

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