Bearings

[Korbin Purchase]

Hey all,

I have a Delta 34-444 table saw with a Delta 62-042 motor. It's old and a bit loud so I'm thinking of changing bearings. My question is, what size bearings? I can always take it a part first but I was hoping there might be some resources out there. Also, I know nothing about bearings, are their more trusted brands? Or are they all just...bearings?

Thanks

[Matt Day]

Korbin,
No idea what size bearings. But sometimes on the parts diagram at the back of your manual, the bearing sizes will be called out.

In general, rubber seal (RS) bearings are recommended instead of ZZ bearings which have metal shields. Regarding which manufacture, that can be a bit of a hot topic. Some people insist on having NTN or such namebrand, but others including myself are fine with whatever brand. I’ve bought bearings locally at Fastenal, I’ve ordered from accurate bearing, and I’ve gotten them on eBay and Amazon.

[David Buchhauser]

It seems like most of the sealed bearings I buy these days are manufactured off-shore. Japan makes some pretty nice stuff - some would say first rate. I expect any replacement bearing will be an improvement over what you have now (if yours are worn out).
David

[Korbin Purchase]

Excellent info guys. Thanks. I was most likely going to purchase from eBay or Amazon, but didn't want to put something in that I would be replacing in 5 minutes.

Appreciate it

[Brian Runau]

For what it's worth, even in Chinese bearings you do get what you pay for. Spent my career in the mechanical Power Transmission Industry and the last 10 years sourcing standard and custom made products from China. Some Chinese sellers by inner and outer races that are rejected from other Chinese manufacturers and change the ball sizes to make them work and sell them. too light and too heavy a preload. I see a lot of folks here going to auto parts folks or Fastenal, but suggest the Industrial Distributors. Nachi, Japanese, makes a great bearing from steel from their own steel plants. Trouble you have to go to to change out bearings I would buy the best I could afford for the longest life. Brian

[Charles Lent]

I found and re-built a 34-444 for my #2 son. I got the bearings from Fastenal, but don't remember the part number. It's on the side of the bearings. Do get the RS version because they are sealed better. The saw dust won't get in and the grease won't get out, so they will last longer. You will likely need a press to get the old bearings off, and the new bearings on. I would suggest a local machine shop for this. If you do it yourself, don't apply pressure to the outer race, only to the inner race, at least when installing the new ones. Putting the arbor in the freezer will shrink the metal, sometimes enough to get bearings on and off without significant force. If not rusty or overheated, you shouldn't need much force.

When re-assembling the arbor carriage and trunnions, clean everything well, and then lubricate the pivoting and sliding surfaces. For the trunnions, I use Johnson's Paste Wax, applied thick with an old tooth brush or similar, because the wax lubricates well, stays in place, and dries on the surface, so it doesn't attract saw dust.
For rotating shafts, etc, I use a dry Moly or Teflon based lube. Get new grade 6-8 mounting bolts and hardened washers for attaching the assembly to the underside of the table. You will need to re-align the blade to the miter slot and secure it in the correct position by these bolts. The old washers and bolts are too soft and have de-formed. Using the old hardware will be an exercise in total frustration, because as you tighten them, they will want to pull to where they were before. There is a product called "Pals" to help with the alignment, but just replacing the bolts and washers with new harder grade will likely be all that is necessary. You just have to loosen these mounting bolts slightly, move the carriage until the blade is parallel with the miter slot, and then tighten. Re-check and then done.

Charley
Replace the belt while the saw is apart too. Putting one on now will keep you from needing to tear apart your saw again for another 20 or more years.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Hey all,

I have a Delta 34-444 table saw with a Delta 62-042 motor. It's old and a bit loud so I'm thinking of changing bearings. My question is, what size bearings? I can always take it a part first but I was hoping there might be some resources out there. Also, I know nothing about bearings, are their more trusted brands? Or are they all just...bearings?

Thanks

6203 2RS is pretty much a standard size bearing both in your motor and the arbor on your saw. Get them at Fastenal, for about three bucks each. Used to be two bucks each, but thanks to the tariffs price went up.

[David Kumm]

If a machine is designed for shielded bearings, going to sealed won't hurt but is not necessarily an improvement. RPM, and clearance are important factors in judging standard stamped steel cage bearings. Heat is a factor, especially for electric motor bearings ( why they tend to be C3 ) and precision and clearance are factors in judging spindle bearings. Different criteria for motor vs spindle applications. Dave

[Mike Soaper]

I'd also consider koyo bearings, and motion industries. No affiliation.

[Korbin Purchase]

Thanks. Good stuff there and exactly why I asked. I have heard of PALS and made my own version. Work pretty well, but still a very frustrating system...as you mentioned tightening the bolts starts pulling the blade back out of alignment.

And I agree. I am not planning on doing this more than once. So I definitely don't want something that will fall apart in a year.

Also, thanks for the part number. Very helpful.