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Thread: Workbench End Vise Help

  1. #1
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    Workbench End Vise Help

    Hi,

    I am currently building Jay Bates take on a Roubo style workbench. Using Douglas Fir for the construction. I’d like to add and end vise with 2 rows of dog holes. I’m looking at the Sjoberg Elite vise, just a few questions.

    1)Should I install a flat board at the end of the bench so the end vise clamps on that instead of the end grain? If yes, how to account for wood movement?

    2) I’m going to have a Leg Vise with a sliding dead man, I think the End vise will give me everything I need, any thoughts?

    3) anyone have any experience with that vice, or can recommend something else?

  2. #2
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    I can't help you with that vice specifically, but to your question about the end-block, you fasten it just like you would for a bread-board end. I'd do a fixed fastener in the middle and have elongated holes for the fasteners out towards the bench edges. Bolts with washers can slide in those elongaged holes as seasonal movement occurs.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I can't help you with that vice specifically, but to your question about the end-block, you fasten it just like you would for a bread-board end. I'd do a fixed fastener in the middle and have elongated holes for the fasteners out towards the bench edges. Bolts with washers can slide in those elongaged holes as seasonal movement occurs.

    Thanks, I guess that's what I will do, better safe than sorry

  4. #4
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    Many Roubo style benches dovetail the end cap to the front board of the top, which is left longer to accommodate the joinery. The rest of it gets attached like a breadboard end with provision to allow movement as Jim Becker described. Whatever method you choose to attach, I would fix the front and force any misalignment of the bench top and end cap as a result of wood movement to the back. Using a leg vise and a deadman, you want the end cap flush with the front of your bench so it doesn’t interfere with clamping long pieces in the leg vise.

  5. #5
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    As Jim and Jon note, a breadboard end locks the end cap to the bench top.

    For details of this, go here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...ngaBench3.html







    ... and here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...ngaBench4.html



    You can see the mortice for the breadboard at the rear ...





    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  6. #6
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    John's point about fixed fastening at the bench front is sound, considering how we use benches including the whole front edge sometimes.

    Derek, those are quite the dovetails!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
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    Thanks Jim

    Here's the other end of the bench. The front has metal inserts to enable a planing stop to function. A breadboard is unnecessary here ...





    Edit to add: the rear of the planing stop is lined with cork-rubber. This creates a great and gentle non-slip.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 06-09-2020 at 8:42 AM.

  8. #8
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    That's a really good idea with that stop like that, Derek. Very functional and always "just the right height".
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
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    Derek, Love that Idea, I think I will include that as well.

    Thanks so much

  10. #10
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    To attach the fixed jaw to my bench I used long screws into end grain. The center ones were in correct sized holes. The holes nearer the ends were special. Thru the jaw they were properly sized but into the bench top they were oversized for 4" then the correct size for the threaded portion. Those screws are 1/4" x 8" and they can flex.

  11. #11
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    Tom, that's a good idea. And it can also be applied to the prior suggestion to fix the front fastening(s), and float the center and rear ones, to keep the front end flush with the front edge of the top.

    -- Andy - Arlington TX

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dindner View Post
    Hi,

    I am currently building Jay Bates take on a Roubo style workbench. Using Douglas Fir for the construction. I’d like to add and end vise with 2 rows of dog holes. I’m looking at the Sjoberg Elite vise, just a few questions.

    1)Should I install a flat board at the end of the bench so the end vise clamps on that instead of the end grain? If yes, how to account for wood movement?

    2) I’m going to have a Leg Vise with a sliding dead man, I think the End vise will give me everything I need, any thoughts?

    3) anyone have any experience with that vice, or can recommend something else?
    Bill, I installed a BenchCrafted wagon/end vise when I built this bench 8 years ago. It was one of the best things I did. Great, great vise.

    The leg vise I designed and built around a wooden screw. If I did it again, I would use the BenchCrafted leg vise. The wooden screw is excellent, but a steel screw offers a little more precision.

    A sliding deadman is important, and works best with a Veritas hold down ...



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    Bill, I installed a BenchCrafted wagon/end vise when I built this bench 8 years ago. It was one of the best things I did. Great, great vise.

    The leg vise I designed and built around a wooden screw. If I did it again, I would use the BenchCrafted leg vise. The wooden screw is excellent, but a steel screw offers a little more precision.
    I'm in the early stages of building myself a new workbench and I'm going with a Benchcrafted Leg vise as well (Classic model). I don't have the horizontal room for a wagon vise (~5 foot long bench, tight basement shop), but if I did then I would want to go with the Benchcrafted version. It requires something like 18" of overhang though, and I just can't make that work. I'll be going with surface-based accessories instead, like holdfasts, bench dogs, and a Veritas wonder dog. I also plan on looking into doing that end-based planing stop like you have, Derek. I'm not much of a hand-tool woodworker, but I want to increase my skills in that area.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  14. #14
    Have you looked at the Turbo Twin Vise that Andy Klein designed and makes? I’ve heard good things about it, but I don’t know enough about the other vises to say which would be better.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kristi L Bilyeu View Post
    Have you looked at the Turbo Twin Vise that Andy Klein designed and makes? I’ve heard good things about it, but I don’t know enough about the other vises to say which would be better.

    looks cool, it’s more expensive, complicated to build, and hasn’t been around for all that long. I really like the looks of it, but I’d rather stick with a classic proven design.

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