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Thread: Protective ‘tung oil’ type finish non-yellowing

  1. #1
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    Protective ‘tung oil’ type finish non-yellowing

    Greetings! Long time reader first time poster!

    I am looking to keep the wood as natural looking as possible while maintaining a protective surface that will not yellow. I have poplar boards that I am using for shelving and I would like to protect them from liquid. Ideally I would like the wood to stay as light colored as possible and have as little gloss and sheen as possible, keeping the wood feel if I can.

    I am considering tung oil with a coat of wax on top but I am worried that the wax will become waxy and need significant upkeep. I have also considered using a poly topcoat but I’m worried about any kind of gloss that that would add and intern take away from the wood feeling.

    I would ideally like as little steps as possible and as “natural” as possible. Thanks!
    Last edited by Ian Merrill; 06-05-2020 at 5:11 PM.

  2. #2
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    If you want a protective, film finish that doesn't impart an amber tone, a waterborne finish in "flat" sheen will accomplish what you want. Any kind of oil based finish is going to have a warmer, amber tone...nature of the beast. "Most" waterborne clears don't have an ambering effect, although not all. Do a test piece to be sure you get the look you prefer before committing for the whole project.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    Thanks Jim! Is there anything out there worth trying besides GF’s Flat-Out Flat Water-Based Top Coat? And if I went with this would I need a added top coat?

  4. #4
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    I haven't used GF's Flat Out Flat but I have used their Enduro Clear Poly Flat and it looks like there's no finish; perfectly natural.

    John

  5. #5
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    Thanks John! Looks like the Enduro poly needs to be sprayed and I am not looking to get into spraying... probably should have mentioned that in my OP. Looks like good stuff though!
    Last edited by Ian Merrill; 06-05-2020 at 9:12 PM.

  6. #6
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    You "can" hand-apply it with a brush or a roller, but its consistency is optimized for spraying. You'll have to take care round witness marks. But that's the case with hand applying most finishes, especially waterbornes because the dry quickly.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Merrill View Post
    Greetings! Long time reader first time poster!

    I am looking to keep the wood as natural looking as possible while maintaining a protective surface that will not yellow.Thanks!
    Just for clarification are you seeking a finish that will not contribute any amber or warm tone to the wood at all? Or when you say a "surface that will not yellow" do you mean some initial warmth is okay as long as it does not become more yellow over time?

    Depending on how much UV light exposure to the shelving, I think you might like the look of a wipe on finish like Arm R Seal in a satin sheen. Yes it will contribute initial warmth to the wood tone but should stay put from there on. Most people think the amount of warmth is pleasant.

    If you are looking for no yellowing period, and spraying is out, Minwax does make a water based wipe on polyurethane in a satin sheen. I've never used it myself, but I suggest it because I think you're mostly limited to water based products if you want zero amber. If you apply it and even the satin is too much sheen for your taste, you could rub out the finish with 0000 steel wool and a lower sheen paste wax like Johnson's Paste Wax, and it should be a very subtle look and silky feel. A little experimenting on scrap should help you finalize your choice.
    I hope the additional ideas are helpful.

  8. #8
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    Edwin! Thank you!
    Your extra bits helped me narrow down what I am looking for.
    I think I am going to go with GF’s flat out flat.
    I am really looking for as flat and natural as possible and if/when it yellows over time hopefully we won’t notice, haha!
    And thanks again to Jim, I’ll be watching out for those witness marks!!

  9. #9
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    Ian, be sure you stir and mix that stuff for a LONG time to insure all the flatting agents are completely and evenly mixed. That's the case with any finish that is not "gloss", but the flatter the sheen, the more mixing that is required.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
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    Hi all, thanks again!
    Attached in the next post are the photos of my three shelves of poplar with 4 coats of GF flat out flat!

    Thanks to Jim for the stirring tip, I stirred a ton!

    ?? Now I am looking for a top layer of possibly wax or something that can help protect the wood but not add any sheen, any thoughts for adding over this water based top coat??

    For the process, I sanded down to 320 with a power sander in between each coat except before and after the last coat I went to 400 and then 1000 on the top and sides. I feel like the 320 power sander, especially after the first two coats took off too much. So that’s why I did 4 coats and I think it only added a slight haze over the dark parts of the poplar but only slightly noticeable.
    Last edited by Ian Merrill; 06-18-2020 at 3:40 PM.

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  12. #12
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    There's no benefit to wax on those shelves; only downside. Leave them as they are.

    John

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