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Thread: AVID CNC Build

  1. #1

    AVID CNC Build

    Ok, after looking at this from many angles, and reading so many posts on many sites, I ordered a 48" X 48" ProCNC. All the hardware from AVID and all the electronics, motors, and spindle from Gary Campbell. running Centroid Acorn.
    And I have added the rotary from AVID too. At this time I have the majority of the hardware assembled and ready to run, and I am about 3/4 done with the electronics. I have powered the controls up and moved the 3 axis. I will say it has been an adventure to this point, and I am now doing some fine tuning of the hardware before I finish the electronics. The basic hardware seems to be very good, and I am happy with the electronics package.
    I am not rushing through this, but using what free time I have to complete this.
    I can say without a doubt, that the support I have gotten at this point has been great.
    ______________________________
    ULS 4.60, Vision 810, shear, beveler
    Avid Pro CNC

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,638
    Congratulations! That's going to be a very nice machine! I watched a video a few days ago about that detailed the same machine you ordered, albeit with everything from Avid. I like that you went with the more advanced Centroid working with Gary...big advantages over Mach4 to the best of my knowledge.

    Oh...we want pictures.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Just a few pictures to start
    Here are the frame boxes
    DSC00002.jpg
    Here is the frame, not quite level
    Helps assemble some parts
    DSC00006.jpg
    mostly assembled
    Starting to run wires
    DSC00019.jpg
    Here I am wondering what I got my self into
    DSC00030.jpgDSC00029.jpg
    ______________________________
    ULS 4.60, Vision 810, shear, beveler
    Avid Pro CNC

  4. #4
    Neat build! Keep the photos coming along - fun to watch.

    David
    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  5. #5
    Very nice, the Pro 4x8 is on my short list and will be what I probably go with, so I'll be watching intently.
    Brian Lamb
    Lamb Tool Works, Custom tools for woodworkers
    Equipment: Felder KF700 and AD741, Milltronics CNC Mill, Universal Laser X-600

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    1,204
    Nice build! I have basically the same machine -Avid Pro4848 running the original Mach3 control, and the Avid Pro2448 (still a work in progress) running the Centroid Acorn cnc12 controller with ATC spindle. The Avid products are top quality!
    David

    20190911_004320_resized.jpg 20200201_000618_resized_1.jpg
    Last edited by David Buchhauser; 02-17-2020 at 11:07 PM.

  7. #7
    Time to update this,
    I have the machine powered up and running, just running some programs with-out tools and calibrating travel, tool setting and things like that.
    I have the dust collection working on a temporary basis, notice the bags from the grocery store, I will straighten this out as soon as I can, I will pick-up some ducting when I get the spoil board.
    Which I hope to add the base and spoil board soon. Then the chips will fly.
    Now it's time to update the tool data base, and work on learning Vectric, I can do the simple things now, but I will get better.

    DSC00033.jpg

    DSC00035.jpg
    ______________________________
    ULS 4.60, Vision 810, shear, beveler
    Avid Pro CNC

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,638
    Paul, you absolutely need to to a bang-up job getting that DC connection fully grounded. Unlike other tools in the shop, CNC machines can get thrown off by even the slightest static electricity. I believe Gary has a good YouTube video on this topic. I had to run an extra wire in the flex up to my (metal) duct work to get there fully. I hate doing that, but at least with CNC, there's lest stuff to get caught on the wire.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
    Posts
    16,614
    Paul, your build looks awesome!

    I agree on the importance of running a ground wire through the flex hose to the DC ground. Do not ground the wire to the CNC itself. I have not had any problems with chips getting clogged because of the wire in the hose.

    I used a large dog collar and spring to control the flex hose above the CNC. It works well.
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    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  10. #10
    Hey, take it easy on the dust system.
    If you look close, you will see the center wire in part of the picture, and the connector by the spindle that connects the center wire to the wrap wire.
    All is grounded to the blower, none of it is grounded to the CNC. There is a dust Deputy in the dust system too, and I have the wire connecting all of it together. I actually followed a posting by Gary C. to do the grounding and had it all in place before I even turned anything on, I have read about gremlins, and I am sure I will put in a few of my own, but I will follow advice and try to avoid things I see on this and a few other forums.
    And I did do a dry run on the rotary just now, and that looks like a go too.
    Now I need to a Lowes or something to get the spoil board and get some actual chips flying.

    Bruce that looks good, but my ceiling is so low for the spring above, I did not think that would work, I will look to see about the dog collar, great idea. I have a support for the dust hose by the spindle designed, again, I need to get to the store to get the parts. Once it is on the machine, I will take more pictures to see what everyone thinks.

    For the spoil board, I do plan on 2 layers, a base of thick plywood just to cover everything up, and then a 2nd layer of particle wood the size of the working area of the spindle to "spoil". I do not plan on hitting the main plywood too much. Does that sound OK?
    ______________________________
    ULS 4.60, Vision 810, shear, beveler
    Avid Pro CNC

  11. #11
    I have 3/4" MDF for a main board and 1/2" MDF for my true spoilboard. The first piece of 1/2" MDF lasted two years before it got too thin to use. Now I have a 22" square piece of 1/2" MDF as an auxiliary spoilboard on top of the full size 1/2" MDF spoilboard. I cut a lot of Longworth chucks and 95% of them are 8" to 20" so the auxiliary board works well and is easy to surface if needed. If I have a Longworth chuck larger than 20" it only takes a minute to remove the auxiliary board to gain access to the full bed.

    And I attach everything with plastic screws in case I ever hit one. They're sunken about 1/8" below the surface but accidents happen. I have actually hit a couple of them in some 'oops' moments.

    David
    David
    CurlyWoodShop on Etsy, David Falkner on YouTube, difalkner on Instagram

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,638
    I didn't see the wire in the photo originally; hence, my mention of it. But if it saves someone else some grief someday after they read this thread...that's a good thing!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
    Reminders and help is always a good thing. that wire hides and unless you know it is there, no one would see it.
    Am I overkilling it with plywood for the bottom layer?
    I am hoping the local store has the plastic or nylon screws, if not, I will order some in.
    And, Can you work corian with the same tools and about the same feeds and speeds as wood?
    Thanks
    ______________________________
    ULS 4.60, Vision 810, shear, beveler
    Avid Pro CNC

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,638
    For the "base layer" of your machine table, using something sturdy is a good thing. My Camaster machine's base table is 1" thick. To plywood's credit, it's excellent at holding screws. The one issue with plywood for the base layer is if you want to surface that before you start on your spoilboard arrangement. Composite products are better suited to that because they don't have layers.

    Corian is a joy to cut. You "can" use the same tooling as for wood, but optimal results can come from tooling that's better arranged for cutting plastics and aluminum. O-flute, for example. I cut it with both types with no problem. Plastics do require more care for speeds/feeds to avoid "melting" and different plastics have different characteristics. Corian is pretty forgiving in that respect in my experience.





    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    1,204
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Brinkmeyer View Post
    Reminders and help is always a good thing. that wire hides and unless you know it is there, no one would see it.
    Am I overkilling it with plywood for the bottom layer?
    I am hoping the local store has the plastic or nylon screws, if not, I will order some in.
    And, Can you work corian with the same tools and about the same feeds and speeds as wood?
    Thanks

    How about an update on your build progress with photos. Did you leave your rotary axis at the front of the machine or relocate?
    David

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