On router planes...

[Winston Chang]

Going the shop made route will allow you to make a few variations for different jobs.

Sometimes when making multiple tenons, I've thought it would be handy to have two router planes: one that's used for getting close to the final depth, and one that's set to a final depth. With the first plane, you'd do the the rougher work, cutting and adjusting the cutter deeper to get close to the end. Once you get close, use the second plane to finish. If you keep the second plane with the same setting and if you start with stock that has the same thickness, the tenons will be cut to the same thickness. You can also use the second plane as a marking gauge to lay out the tenon. Now that I think of it, I think Paul Sellers actually does just that in one of his videos about the topic -- that's probably where I got the idea from.

[Bob Jones 5443]

Sometimes when making multiple tenons, I've thought it would be handy to have two router planes: one that's used for getting close to the final depth, and one that's set to a final depth. With the first plane, you'd do the the rougher work, cutting and adjusting the cutter deeper to get close to the end. Once you get close, use the second plane to finish. If you keep the second plane with the same setting and if you start with stock that has the same thickness, the tenons will be cut to the same thickness. You can also use the second plane as a marking gauge to lay out the tenon. Now that I think of it, I think Paul Sellers actually does just that in one of his videos about the topic -- that's probably where I got the idea from.

Great idea. Also, the iron on the finish plane will stay sharper if it's only brought in for the final shaves.

[Derek Cohen]

Sometimes when making multiple tenons, I've thought it would be handy to have two router planes: one that's used for getting close to the final depth, and one that's set to a final depth. With the first plane, you'd do the the rougher work, cutting and adjusting the cutter deeper to get close to the end. Once you get close, use the second plane to finish. If you keep the second plane with the same setting and if you start with stock that has the same thickness, the tenons will be cut to the same thickness. You can also use the second plane as a marking gauge to lay out the tenon. Now that I think of it, I think Paul Sellers actually does just that in one of his videos about the topic -- that's probably where I got the idea from.

This is what the depth stop is for.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Warren Mickley]

Sometimes when making multiple tenons, I've thought it would be handy to have two router planes: one that's used for getting close to the final depth, and one that's set to a final depth. With the first plane, you'd do the the rougher work, cutting and adjusting the cutter deeper to get close to the end. Once you get close, use the second plane to finish. If you keep the second plane with the same setting and if you start with stock that has the same thickness, the tenons will be cut to the same thickness. You can also use the second plane as a marking gauge to lay out the tenon. Now that I think of it, I think Paul Sellers actually does just that in one of his videos about the topic -- that's probably where I got the idea from.

We actually don't usually have the tenon the same distance from the front as the back. We set up a mortise gauge to match the mortise chisel and then gauge both the mortise and the tenon with this setting. We mark everything from one (face) side. So the two sides don't necessarily match.

If we are making a frame and panel with a molding on the inside edge of the stiles and rails, the placement of the groove and the mortises is dependent on the molding. With a good sized molding the tenons are a little more to the rear of the rails. If there is no molding and the panel is flat, it sometimes looks better to have the tenon toward the front. Whether the panel is raised also has a bearing on placement.

Rail tenons going into legs likewise have various configurations that might be not centered on the rail. A rail could have the tenon a little toward the back, or if the rail is not flush with the leg, the tenon could be toward the front.

Setting up a router plane to deal with this is just a lot more work than sawing to the line.

[Jim Koepke]

You can also use the second plane as a marking gauge to lay out the tenon. Now that I think of it, I think Paul Sellers actually does just that in one of his videos about the topic -- that's probably where I got the idea from.

Using sharp things to mark a line is an old trick no matter what was holding the 'sharp thing.'

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?91256

jtk

[Winston Chang]

This is what the depth stop is for.

Ah, good point. Next time I'm at the hardware store, I'll have to look for a stop collar that fits, and a thumbscrew.