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Thread: Solution to power cords on the floor?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    345
    Thanks all for your replies. I do like the idea of overhead drops, I have all my 220 equipment on twistlocks already so it would not be a big deal. Right now I'm plugging everything into a wall outlet but it would be fairly simple to add the ceiling receptacles. I'm guessing that just above head height would be ideal? I'm 6', so 78-80" would probably work. I remember using ceiling outlets in wood shop in high school and junior high; they were each mounted above the center of a 4' square butcherblock top workbench with a woodworking vise mounted to each corner. And dog holes. Yeah, good times.

    Stepping on cords across the floor is nearly constant for me. I don't like to do it but I can't avoid it. So getting them off the floor would be best, that or a cord cover like was suggested earlier.

    I also am toying with the idea of rubber mats, like horse stall mats, and I could lay the cord in a groove in the mat and use gaff tape to keep it in there. Lots of good ideas, thanks.
    Jon Endres
    Killing Trees Since 1983

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    451
    Blog Entries
    1
    I've been wanting to ask this same question.
    Overall it seems to be a common issue that we all end up working around.
    I like the idea of a clothes line with some hangers that I can pull across the shop as needed and slide to the wall when not needed.
    I've considered fixed drops overhead but it would still require cords in my way.
    I think the combination of the 2 ideas - clothes line mobile line and fixed overhead drops would likely eliminate most if not all of my cordage issues.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Location
    Mid-Michigan
    Posts
    264
    I have twistlock receptacles in my ceiling.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Lawrenceburg, Tenn.
    Posts
    1,133
    I had them put outlets across the ceiling, and have one set up already with a retractable Flexzilla cord reel, as well as extension cords that are mounted next to each garage door that have triple ends on them. I also have shorter cords for some runs, that can be left with the offending tool to be able to use it easily.

    Doc
    As Cort would say: Fools are the only folk on the earth who can absolutely count on getting what they deserve.

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Fenneuff View Post
    I have twistlock receptacles in my ceiling.
    I also have twist locks on the ceiling. I then run home made extension cords with twist lock plugs and "regular" outlets, so I can disconnect equipment without getting up on a ladder.

  6. #21
    My stationary tools are a table saw, drill press, CMS, and RAS. My planner is a lunchbox and plugs into an extension that is reasonably out of the way in a corner. My table saw plugs into the wall close to where I have lumber storage and I thus only walk over there to look at the end of that rack or something. The duct work for the DC is where the power cord runs and the duct is far more in the way than the power cord. The CMS and RAS are side by side on the same bench so the cord is out of the way. drill press is on another wall and it's cord out of the way.

    I like Festools idea of strapping the power cord to a shop vac hose but I am far too cheap to have only Festool power tools. I put this type plug on a lot of my tools:https://www.amazon.com/Toptekits-Pow.../dp/B002T0JMW6. It is a bit difficult to do, the space inside is small, but the resulting cords work well. I even converted my domino to this style plug. So for the portable tools, sanders, domino, track saw, I plug the hose and power at the same time and only have the one hose in the way. You can get a locking connector, I have a couple, but I do not find that they are necessary. The regular ones do not unplug very easily.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    New Hill, NC
    Posts
    2,568
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Seemann View Post
    I also have twist locks on the ceiling. I then run home made extension cords with twist lock plugs and "regular" outlets, so I can disconnect equipment without getting up on a ladder.
    I do this as well.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    5,540
    My shop is about 26x60, with truss roof, so there are no support columns necessary.

    I installed two 6x6 columns which are not structural, just to attach the DC, and electrical to. My big tools are clustered in the two columnar areas, with twist lock drops from the ceiling. There is a cluster of twist locks near each column which has at least one 30A 220, a double 20A 220, and a double 20A 110. Each also has a 12G cord reel nearby.

    Picture a cluster of Sawstop cabinet saw with outfeed table, DJ20 jointer, 735 lunchbox planer, and medium duty 220V shaper. All around one column.

    The other has a MiniMax 300 Combo , bandsaw, and portable tracksaw setup that comes and goes.

    The columns also hold up track saw tracks, and my 4' long Kreg jig setup.

    Only cords on floor are temporary.

    Other tools, like RAS, router table, sanders, and miter saw are wall located.
    Last edited by Rick Potter; 06-18-2020 at 2:19 PM.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Marina del Rey, Ca
    Posts
    1,932
    Most of my machines are on mobile bases. Single phase power is run to standard 115 and 230 wall outlets. 3-phase power is to ceiling-mounted receptacles. The centrally located machines are powered by cords run up to the overhead and across the collar ties. No twist-lock receptacles are needed.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

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