Miter Saw Dust Collection and Miter Saw Travel Question

[tim walker]

I have an older Bosch SCMS and when it is pushed fully back, it is almost 48" from the wall to the very front of the miter saw. I want to place it on a newly built miter saw station but i dont want cabinets out that far. Any suggestions short of buying a new SCMS unless I dont want to try to collect the dust?

[Bryan Lisowski]

You could build the cabinets to the depth you want and build a dust hood around the saw only.

[tim walker]

True if it were standalone. I envision these against the wall, so the cabinets would nee to be 35" or so deep and I intend to build some upper cabinets as well so that would make them hard to reach. Thanks for the feedback Bryan.

[Jim Becker]

Aside from putting a hole in the wall...you're constrained by the nature of the tool, Tim. If it requires that much space, that's what it requires if you want it to be on the wall like that. You could, of course, make "just that one cabinet" that it sets on deeper and either extend the top of the work surface out from normal depth cabinets or provide removable workpiece support. But that particular saw seems to not have been designed to be constrained by a wall...

And yes, there are some folks who would opt for the hole in the wall!

[tim walker]

So after reading many articles on the merits of slider vs non slider, I have decided I will keep my 10" Bosch slider as a backup saw in case I ever need to cut wide boards, but will use it on a stand. So now the decision is which non slider to buy. I am leaning toward the DeWalt DWS 716 XPS 12" system. I have found lots of reviews, mostly excellent. Any comments? May post in power tools also. This way, I can keep my depth of cabinets at a nominal depth and not have a lot of wasted space.

[Robert D Evans]

I've found that I rarely need the extended capability of sliding CMS. I have a non-sliding Dewalt CMS and it handles most of what I cut. I also have a radial arm saw and a table saw for wider boards. Capturing sawdust from a CMS is a challenge.

[Jack Lemley]

I wouldn't be without my slider. I use the extended reach quite often. I had a Makita 10" slider for years, moved to a Bosch 10" Glide 4 or 5 years ago, then Hartville had the new old style Kapex with updated insides (problems with that since the saw entered the market). Got the Kapex for a little over $1,000 shipped and absolutely love it! The lasers once adjusted are spot on and the dust collection is probably 75% better than the Bosch Glide. And the Kapex is as compact as they come!

Jack

[Bobby Robbinett]

I would get the 10” Dewalt non slider. That is what I use. A 10” will have less blade deflection than a 12” and therefor more accuracy. The 10” Dewalt is a work horse and very accurate.

[Jim Dwight]

I use a Hitachi 12 inch non-slider. I also have an old RAS next to it that I occasionally use but mainly I use the track saw for cuts outside the range of the miter saw. With rail dogs it is pretty quick and easy to make accurate cross cuts to over 24 inches (limited by my bench). The Hitachi is good a little over 8 inches crosscut.

[John Gornall]

Built into the cabinet a section like an upside down drawer with heavy duty drawer slides which the saw is mounted on. Move the whole saw forward so you can then move the slider back. When the saw is forward I had a dowel in a hole to lock it in place while sawing. Move the slide forward and push the saw back when finished.

[Alan Lightstone]

Built into the cabinet a section like an upside down drawer with heavy duty drawer slides which the saw is mounted on. Move the whole saw forward so you can then move the slider back. When the saw is forward I had a dowel in a hole to lock it in place while sawing. Move the slide forward and push the saw back when finished.

I did the same thing with my Kapex and a Jet Drum Sander next to it in my last workshop. Worked out very well.
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