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Thread: Seeking advice on a new purchase

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Foster City, CA
    Hey Matthew,

    I have the usual garage workshop where everything needs to be pushed to the sides to allow both cars to be parked. I think I can get the Sawstop in, but it would be tight.

    I have a 220 outlet. I run a Harbor Freight DC blower with a Wynn filter. Material widths vary. There are times I have to use the sled method to surface boards wider than 7 1/2".

    I upgraded my tablesaw fence to a VerySuperCool fence. No splitter or riving knife (yes I know); Forrest Thin Kerf Combo Blade.

    Any new planer and/or jointer would need to have a helical head. I do get snipe with my current planer.

    I've told myself that because I cannot afford both tools, there are going to be sawing, planing or jointing issues I will just have to deal with.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    May 2014
    In my opinion FWIW there is a obvious way to go here. If you plan to keep using rough lumber you will improve your ability to make furniture more at this point by upgrading your jointer/planer first. You have a good tablesaw with a great fence now. If it was me I would be shopping for jointers and planers or a combo. When the day comes that you do change tablesaws I also would keep that fence. YMMV.

  3. #18
    I love my SawStop but I used a Craftsman contractor saw for many years before I bought the SawStop. I'd go for the jointer/planer and keep using the contractor saw until you can afford the SawStop.

    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  4. #19
    I would go with a separate jointer and a seperate planner I would get at least an 8 inch jointer with the longest infeed table I could get my hands on and I prefer knives to the inserted cutter head. And I would get a good cast iron planner. I would love to have a SawStop saw. But my General still pers like a kitten so I won't.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Quote Originally Posted by Matthew Hills View Post

    - The switchover, as mentioned by Prashun, does slow things down a bit.
    Mine takes about 60 seconds...and that's hand cranking the planer bed. It doesn't change often because I learned right away to plan things out when milling lumber flat and to thickness.

    You are correct about dust collection. Not optional. Can't be used without it.

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Austin Texas
    in my opinion, a table saw shines when using lots of sheet goods, especially for case work. The jointer/planer combo should shine when using primarily rough timber for furniture building. A case for eliminating the TS and adding in a bandsaw can be made for processing rough timber into furniture pieces, but, yes, a TS is a handy tool no doubt.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Winterville, NC (eastern NC)
    I'm with Jim on this one. Get a jointer/planer in as wide a model as your budget will allow. Since you stated that square stock is important to you, that is where I would start. I went from a Jet 6" jointer and Parks 12" planer to a Chinese 12" jointer/planer to finally a Hammer A3-41 J/P machine with the Silent Power cutter head. Love this piece of kit. You will not be sorry for getting a huge jump in capacity in a compact package.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2017
    Arlington, TX
    The Jet combo's jointer table is a little longer than the Hammer, but Hammer offers very well made extension tables for their machines. They are interchangeable between the jointer infeed, jointer outfeed, and planer outfeed. You'd need 2 mounting rails (the mounting rail for the jointer fence also holds the jointer infeed extension table), and 2 extension tables. There are two lengths of extension tables, 16" long and a longer one (32"?) that has an adjustable support leg. Two 16" extensions would make the A3-26's combined jointer table length over 76".

    Full disclosure: I have an A3-41 on order.

    -- Andy - Arlington TX
    Last edited by Andy D Jones; 06-03-2020 at 11:29 PM.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Hirata View Post
    I upgraded my tablesaw fence to a VerySuperCool fence. No splitter or riving knife (yes I know); Forrest Thin Kerf Combo Blade.

    Any new planer and/or jointer would need to have a helical head. I do get snipe with my current planer.

    I've told myself that because I cannot afford both tools...
    ‘That tablesaw is freaking dangerous. Kick it to the curb before someone loses an eye. Get the Sawstop. In the meantime, you can still do stock prep until you feel you can afford the j/p. IOW, tell yourself different.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    New Brunswick, Canada
    I was in a similar quandary last fall and bought the SawStop. I have a bench top jointer and planer that leave a lot to be desired but I’m still able to get square stock with them. It requires the help of a hand plane occasionally.
    I’ll admit I’m looking forward to replacing the bench top models and will probably go with a combo machine due to space limitations. When I use my jointer I wish I had bought the combo machine first; when I use my SawStop I’m happy I didn’t...

  11. #26
    If you already have a jointer & planer, then keep using them and get the SawStop w/ the 36" fence and a mobile base (so that you can move it, as needed). Then, later upgrade the jointer & planer.

    If you don't have a jointer & planer, then the Jet 12HH is a good choice, or the Rikon, which is almost the same machine (without the outfeed adjustments that the Jet has). I have the Jet. Or, save your money and get the Hammer 3-41, which has 16" tables and then you won't have to upgrade again.

    At the minimum, watch Fine Woodworking's Table Saw Safety video, which they just recently posted for free during Covid and notice how Marc Adams makes a new table saw insert plate with a wooden splitter and use that (about 8:08 in the video)!

  12. #27
    you can upgrade your tablesaw ..go to sharkguard. riving knife and overhead dust collection. have it on my 1980's delta contractor and it works just fine
    Be the kind of woman that when your feet hit the ground each morning, the devil says, "oh crap she's up!"

    Tolerance is giving every other human being every right that you claim for yourself.

    "What is man without the beasts? If all the beasts are gone, men would die from great loneliness of spirit. For whatever happens to the beasts will happen to man. All things are connected. " Chief Seattle Duwamish Tribe

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    central tx
    Just FYI I ordered an A3-41 a month ago and my tentative delivery date is September. Covid slowed stuff down so if you want one better jump on it or you might be a year wait time.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Cambridge Vermont
    Have you thought about not using rough cut lumber as much? You could buy the saw now and hopefully in a year or two be able to buy the J/P. Sure it'll cost you more in the short term but you could get away from struggling with the current tools. Since you want both you are not going to be happy until you have both (just accept that as fact). Your saw seams capable but you want the safety features of a SS. There's no way to get around it with your saw. If you feel that you really want the safety then you might as well do it now. The J/P is an upgrade to make life easier. You've gotten by this long without what you have now but, like I asked, you can find ways around it.

    I think that the answer is going to depend on you and you alone. For me the J/P would be higher on my list. My cabinet saw has a splitter that I find annoying (but easy) to remove when I want to do something like a tenon. Getting away from the noise of a lunchbox planer was one of my most important wants when upgrading.

  15. #30
    I have a 14 x 24 separate garage for my shop. I used to try and work in the same garage as we parked the cars and am happy I do not have to do that any more. But my space is small. I have a PCS 1.75 with the 36 inch fence. I also have a DeWalt track saw with all three tracks they offer. I cut up big stuff, sheet or solid, with the track saw.

    My jointer is a Inca 410. It has 8 5/8 width capacity but the beds are only about 36 inches long. I do not find it reasonably possible to joint material more than about 8 feed long on this jointer. 6 feet works far better. I will soon make a 10 feet long dining table, however. I will just use my planner on both sides and use my track saw to get a glue up ready edge.

    My planner is a Ryobi AP-10. It was the first lunchbox planner. It is limited to 10 inch width. That is not normally a problem. It snipes a little but I can sand it out.

    I'm glad I got the PCS. My left middle finger is longer as a result. I messed up with a 3/4 dado stack on the saw. It would have taken half the last joint off but, instead, I got a broken bone and 6 stitches. 4 weeks later I don't even need a band aid. I've been making sawdust for at least 50 years. First cut from a table saw.

    So I recommend the PCS. With the right blade, I do not think you need the 3hp but it would save me some blade swapping to have it. Assuming your jointer and planner are at least as capable as mine, they do not need to limit what you make. My little tools, and a less capable table saw than you have, made bedroom sets for me and my kids and grandkids plus a lot of other stuff.

    I'm sure a wide jointer and planner would be nice. But a good table saw is basic. You don't have to have that either but if you have a chance to get safer I would take it.

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