Riser block

[Ian Duermeier]

I recently bought a used jet jwbs 14 cs bandsaw and have been doing some maintenance and upgrading. I got the riser kit from jet and as I was installing it I realized that there was about a half inch of play in one of the alignment holes on the top wheel housing. I was wondering if anyone had any tricks for this or a good way to align the top housing. Thanks!

[lowell holmes]

I have that set up and it works well. I had no issues like you describe. I suggest you call Jet.

[mike stenson]

I have that set up and it works well. I had no issues like you describe. I suggest you call Jet.

Likewise, I'm struggling to really wrap my head around where there could be that much play to be honest.

[Ian Duermeier]

I did put in a ticket with jet I was wondering if this was something common or not. Inspecting it seems like one of the holes for the alignment peg is slightly oversized.

[John TenEyck]

You don't actually need the alignment pins or holes. Align the wheels so that the blade is perpendicular to the table, both from the front and side, so that the upper blade guides remain constant in relation to the blade over their full range of travel.

John

[Ian Duermeier]

Thanks, that helps!

[Myles Moran]

I've got a riser in my bandsaw with no alignment pins. It was a little tricky to get it all put together and tightened down (it kept wanting to move), but I used a straight edge to get the wheels coplanar as best I could while I got the bolt tightened down nice and tight. It hasn't moved a bit, and I've used it a LOT since installing that riser block.

[Bill Dufour]

You could fill the hole with jb weld and ream the alignment. To be honest I do not think the pin holes are even reamed. probably just cored or drilled.
Bil lD

[Alex Zeller]

I put a riser block on a Harbor Freight BS a few years ago. Since they didn't make one for the saw I bought the cheapest one I could find. I removed the roll pins since they didn't line up and drilled new holes in the correct location for the upper half of the saw to the block. The lower ones I left out and put it together. With them out I was able to get the wheels co-planer then tightened the bolt down. Since the pins are in opposite corners I was able to mark where the riser block was on the lower half of the saw saw and with a template I made I drilled the holes.

Personally I'm not sure if the roll pins are needed but I didn't want it to drift over time for some strange reason and cause me problems. I then gave the band saw away (it was given to me) after removing the riser block (since it was really optimistic of me to think it would cut through wood over 6"). You should be able to snug the bolt just enough so it takes a light tap with a hammer to set it up but will not move when you do the final tightening down.

That was the problem with the HF. The "flat" surfaces for the washers weren't even close to flat. Even the slot for the bolt wasn't large enough for the bolt. So when tightening it was tricky to get things to the point you could still move them with a little persuasion but not want to move when tightening further.

[John TenEyck]

Alex brings up another good point related to this. Whether or not you include any pins, you want to make sure to tighten the bolt connecting the two castings really, really, well enough torque so that it doesn't stretch when the spring is loaded.

John