Cleaning 'waxed' turning blanks

[John K Jordan]

Just be sure to mill them proud of final and let them acclimate after slicing and dicing so moisture equalized. Thin stickers are needed for this. Moving air is nice, too.

I think it he was going to make bandsaw boxes cut out of single solid blocks, sectioning and gluing to get an outside shell with a back and an inner hollow drawer or two. If well done (or lucky) it's difficult to see the glue lines and for the uninitiated to imagine how they are made.
https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entri...wn-bandsaw-box

Mark, depending on where you live and your environment 12% is a reasonable number for air-dried wood. In my air conditioned/heated shop blocks get a little drier but not much. (I don't heat or cool to typical urban american standards.) I would also consider them ready for use. Fortunately the width of the bandsaw blade kerf always seems to provide a little extra clearance.

JKJ

[Jim Becker]

That makes sense, John. I didn't have the connection to bandsawn boxes when I made my comment.

[Greg Urwiller]

The "wax coated wood" brings back bad memories for me. Several years ago, a very inexperienced ME bought a turned wood carvers mallet on a whim. Nice mallet, heavy, balanced. But the waxy surface bothered me and not thinking (knowing) I scraped all the wax off. Couldn't figure out what that was for LOL. In a couple weeks I found out...that thing split all over the place! Man, that must have been wet when it was turned!!

[mark mcfarlane]

John was correct in my approach. Basically you cut pieces off the block and glue them back together. The end result appears to be carved out of a solid block, minus the kerfs.

Thanks everyone as always for the help. I shall install my Diemaster 1/4" blade today and start cutting, unless the wife gives me other projects. I bought the 1/4" blade 3 years ago when I set up the shop and it has never been installed. Only the resaw blade has been used.

[charlie spencer]

Sorry, this doesn't pertain to the thread, but I was admiring the walnut kitchen island on your website. Do you mind sharing the finish? I used Waterlox and years later added a refresher coat and it is plastic looking and nothing will slide across the surface. BTW, you are an elite furniture maker.

[Prashun Patel]

Charlie-
Thank you for that, but I assure you I am not elite. I'm an avid hobbyist who knows how to take pictures of the good sides only

For that walnut island, I wiped on a coat of Waterlox Original Sealer Finish (original formula) - not to a pooling consistency, but fairly liberally nonetheless. Then I wiped it all off the surface. I buffed it for a few minutes until the shop towels ran fairly dry. I was only using Waterlox to color the walnut. I gave it a day to dry - I recommend (but do not practice) two days depending on your weather. Then I sprayed a few coats of Target EM8000CV. It's a waterbased conversion 'varnish'. The sheen was Flat. Target makes a CL100 cross linking liquid that you mix in for extra durability. Caveat emptor on the flat because years of rubbing it will eventually polish up to a minor gloss. So far that has not happened on the island. I find this product super easy to spray. I am finishing a guitar right now, and i have it hanging from the rafters in my garage so I can spray all sides at once. Even vertically, I didn't get runs or sags. It levels so well...

[charlie spencer]

Thanks for the generous answer. Your work is magnificent in creativity and execution. My island is quite large and in place for 12 years. It gets a lot of use and the original finish was Waterlox satin and satisfactory. After 9 years I re-coated with Waterlox Original and the gloss is too great and it seems soft because nothing will slide across the surface. I may need to take a card scraper and start over.

Blessings

[Prashun Patel]

You could run down the finish with micro mesh or abralon after cure (about a month). That will smooth the surface and reduce the sheen. I would not resort to stripping...