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Thread: Help choosing my first set of rasps

  1. #16
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    Feb 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Crawford View Post
    I have Auriou, they are great. A big coarse one, a smaller fine one, and a fine rat-tail.

    Thomas are you making saw handles with this set?

    Cheers, Iain

  2. #17
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    Feb 2004
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    Perth, Australia
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    I have made plenty of saw and plane handles over the years. I have also shaped curved furniture and chairs. I use Auriou rasps, all straight. They are well-made, and have lasted very well. I think there is a 10 grain for wasting/rough work, then 12, 13, 15 and 16 grains for finer work.

    I also have the Iwasaki rasps. They can leave a very fine surface - better than a toothed rasp - however I find that they are sensitive to grain direction and can then dig in.

    Also look at the Shinto rasp. These are double sided (rough and fine), and are the biggest bargain in rasps!

    Regards from Perth (Australia)

    Derek
    Last edited by Derek Cohen; 05-29-2020 at 9:36 AM.

  3. #18
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    Derek would you recommend cabinet or modellers rasps?

    Cheers, Iain

  4. #19
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    Iain, as I recall, the 10" 10 grain is a cabinet rasp and the others are modeller's rasps (it was a long time ago).

    Here is a picture ...



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iain Douglas View Post
    Thanks for the replies everyone.

    Before starting the thread I spent hours reseaching all the different brands, their benefits and their downsides, and in the end I have definitely settled on the Liogier rasps for the finer work, just not sure what type, size or grain to choose.

    Cheers, Iain
    Liogier has some sets that would get you a good start. Itís been a while but Noel was very helpful with questions.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iain Douglas View Post
    Jim what size are your 2 cabinet rasps, do you think they are a better choice than modellers raps. Do you use a rougher rasp before these 2?

    Cheers, Iain
    Hi Iain, The 15 grain is about 6" long. The 13 grain is about 8" long. When mine were purchased there may not have been an option for the modellers rasp.

    From the chart:

    Attachment 434021

    It looks like the modellers rasp would be useful in tighter places. A round rasp or small round bastard file does the job for me. My accumulation of files and rasps provides many options. For a saw handle the cabinet rasps have been able to do the work as needed.

    If you are just starting a more versatile rasp may be a better choice. A small radius will be able to work in a larger area. A larger radius will not be able to work in a smaller area.

    The smaller radius and flat will take more strokes to do the same area as a larger radius and flat.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  7. #22
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    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
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    I have 6" 15 grain and 6" 15 grain rattail. I think eventually I'll add an 8" 13 grain.

    I think I agree for coarser work you could buy a cheaper CNC stitched one. Mine is an 9" 10 grain - it takes off material quickly.

    Tommy

  8. #23
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    Perth - Scotland
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    Thanks to everyone for their input. I've decided on a mix of cabinet and modellers rasps initially, and then with use see what happens.

    One more question, I'm left-handed, should I definitely choose left-handed rasps, does it make a big difference?

    Cheers, Iain

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iain Douglas View Post
    Thanks to everyone for their input. I've decided on a mix of cabinet and modellers rasps initially, and then with use see what happens.

    One more question, I'm left-handed, should I definitely choose left-handed rasps, does it make a big difference?

    Cheers, Iain
    Being somewhat ambidextrous, there is a difference noticed between using rasps with my left hand compared to my right hand. My suggestion would be to purchase left handed rasps if you are left hand dominate.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  10. #25
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    Nov 2007
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    Edwardsville, IL.
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    Good morning. Sorry so late to the party. I have been rasping away in my little shop the last few weeks.
    I have quite a few rasp and predominately all from Liogier. He was very helpful and has made a couple of custom rasp of my design. I have a couple of Grammercy handle maker's rasp, I bought for students That work ok, but I prefer the Liogier.
    I would recommend all three handle makers rasp. #9, #12, and #15. Although you could get away with only a #12. Modeller's rasp, #13, 14, and a (6") 15 are preferred over cabinet rasp due to the more narrow profile. For fast removal on open curves, (back of handles), Lee Valley sells a coarse set of rasp with black handles that work well and won't break the bank. You may also wish to obtain 1" cloth sand paper rolls. 80, 120, and 220 grit, for final shaping/ sanding the handles. I use mine on my lathe as well. So nothing gets wasted. Best of luck to you.

  11. #26
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    Perth - Scotland
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    I've got enough advice to make a decision on the first 3 or 4 raps to get, then take it from there..

    Thanks to everone for taking the time to post.

    Cheers, Iain

  12. #27
    I've just used my Lioger cabinet maker's rasps to carve standoffs on a set of chairs. I can't believe how quickly they cut, and how smooth of a result can be had with them. They are so much better than a machine cut rasp. Using a hand stitched rasp is truly a pleasure! Enjoy!!!

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