concrete bull float and paint roller extension handles: Interchangable?

[Roger Feeley]

Normally, I would just run to the hardware store and try it. But....Coronavirus.

I have a nice collection of paint roller extension handles. I want to know if those threads will work on a concrete bull float.

We are thinking about doing some concrete work. I could rent the float but with three different (small) projects, I may just buy one. I would rather not have to have a collection of float handles.

Can someone tell me if the threads are interchangable?

[Tom M King]

For one job, I'd just make a float out of a 1x8, and whatever you can rig up for a handle. The commercial ones work fine, but I poured a lot of concrete before I ever bought one. You just need to get the aggregate down below the surface, and make sure there is plenty of "fat" on the surface, without large bubbles. A flexible handle lets you shake it a little, side to side, which helps. It doesn't take a lot of force, so doesn't have to be really strong.

I have a collection of paint roller handles too, but even if I could put them all together, they'd still not be as long as I'd want on a Bull Float.

Doing every step, like screeding before the bull float, as good as you can, makes the next step easier. The bull float gets it ready for regular floating, whether with a hand float, or machine.

If you're wanting to slick finish it, make sure you have good blades. New ones work the best.

[Bruce Wrenn]

For one job, I'd just make a float out of a 1x8, and whatever you can rig up for a handle. The commercial ones work fine, but I poured a lot of concrete before I ever bought one. You just need to get the aggregate down below the surface, and make sure there is plenty of "fat" on the surface, without large bubbles. A flexible handle lets you shake it a little, side to side, which helps. It doesn't take a lot of force, so doesn't have to be really strong.

I have a collection of paint roller handles too, but even if I could put them all together, they'd still not be as long as I'd want on a Bull Float.

Doing every step, like screeding before the bull float, as good as you can, makes the next step easier. The bull float gets it ready for regular floating, whether with a hand float, or machine.

If you're wanting to slick finish it, make sure you have good blades. New ones work the best.

Did you mean troweling instead of regular floating? For a small job, you could take a push broom, remove all the bristles, and fasten a 1 X 8 to body of broom. My bull floats both use the same thread size as paint rollers,and push brooms.

[Roger Feeley]

Did you mean troweling instead of regular floating? For a small job, you could take a push broom, remove all the bristles, and fasten a 1 X 8 to body of broom. My bull floats both use the same thread size as paint rollers,and push brooms.

thanks! That the answer I needed. I have a 12’ roller extension and some shorter ones.

[Mark Bolton]

Id be cautious with the long roller extensions as you will likely just snap the tip off the extension with the load the float will put on the handle. May work if you are very carefull but Ive had the tips snap off just from a lot of heavy rolling with a thick nap roller. The float handles are larger in diameter for length but also to give a little more support area around the threads.

It'd suck to have the tip snap off when the float is 15' away from you and then having to retrieve it.

[Tom M King]

Did you mean troweling instead of regular floating? For a small job, you could take a push broom, remove all the bristles, and fasten a 1 X 8 to body of broom. My bull floats both use the same thread size as paint rollers,and push brooms.

By "regular" floating, I meant the next step after bull floating, after it's set up a little more. I don't remember reading how the final finish was going to be, but if slick finished, the next step would either be a float in one hand, and trowel in the other, or float blades on a machine. If it's going to be broom finished, I'd still float it again before brooming. This floating is done after it's set up enough to get on it, but not enough that you can't work it. It will need to be floated a couple of times as it sets up getting ready for a slick finish.

The bull float just gets it ready for the next floating step. It's just used right after the pour, or even during the poor depending on how long your handle is, and how big the pour is.

When I made bull floats, I'd use a four, or five foot length of 1x8. The handle, up to a 16 foot long edge of a board, would get fastened to the 1x8 at a comfortable handling height, just cobbled up with screws and scraps. To push, you lower the handle slightly so the front edge doesn't dig in, and lift to pull back. You don't want to tilt it any more than you need to. A long, flexible handle lets you jiggle it a little, that helps to bury any proud aggregate.

edited to add: If you need to move concrete with it, you got in too big of a hurry pouring, and screeding it in the previous step. Do a good job screeding it, and there is not a lot of work needed from the Bull Float.