buying a new router table

[john travis]

hi this is my first post here and thanks in advance

i am looking at a infinity pro router table with lift plate and 3 1/4 hp triton router

i am going to be building a 4'0'' x 7'0'' door and some cabinet doors i believe for now a router table ( i will have level input and out put wings about 8 ft ) is my best bet and maybe a shaper in my future any thoughts and suggestions appreciated

Thanks
John

[Mark Hockenberg]

Hi John,

Congrats on your first post. You'll get some great advise on this forum. Here's a interesting video that covers some things to consider as you look at router tables: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nh6uzm9DTaw

I haven't put my hands on the infinity pro table so I can't speak to it. Other solid brands are Kreg, Woodpeckers, JessEm, etc. I would look at all of them and watch videos to see how they work and you may be drawn to one over another.

I started with a standard insert plate and then upgraded to a router lift and found that to be well worth it. I also started with a home made table (stand), top and fence and the only thing I bought was the insert plate and router. This served me well for a long time. After changing out parts over time, I ended up with a Kreg base (excellent), an Excalibur lift (excellent), a Porter Cable 3-1/4 HP router, and a Woodhaven (I think) top and fence. It's a strange combination of components that works well. If I were starting over, I might look at getting a cast iron top for the mass factor.

A shaper will put you in a very different category. Generally, you're likely to get better results, but that will come with a higher price for the machine and tooling. That decision should be driven by what you plan to build. For me, I don't use the router table that much and a shaper wouldn't benefit my projects. But that may be different for you.

Your 7' door length sounds like a lot for a router table, but if you have good level extensions and a good featherboard/holddown on the the fence that will help. Cabinet doors should be no problem on the router table.

Good luck and let us know what you decide.

Cheers,
Mark

[Mike Kreinhop]

I have the Triton TRA001 router in an Incra table. This router doesn't need a lift since it can be easily adjusted from the top of the table. The router comes with the adjustment tool and Incra makes a table insert for the Triton that has the access hole for the tool.

[Paul F Franklin]

I have the Triton TRA001 router in an Incra table. This router doesn't need a lift since it can be easily adjusted from the top of the table. The router comes with the adjustment tool and Incra makes a table insert for the Triton that has the access hole for the tool.

+1, have the same router in a shop-made table; the above the table adjustment works nicely (although you do have to release the column lock on the router before adjusting.

I have the Kreg router plate that takes their twist in inserts and they have a version with the hole for the triton adjuster as well.

I also have the infinity router fence and am happy with that as well. It's solid and has all the adjustments necessary, including the ability to set the fence faces precisely 90 degrees to the table. I added a shop-made micro adjuster to it which has come in handy; their are commercial versions available as well.

[Andy D Jones]

Most dedicated router lifts allow adjusting and un/locking the height adjustment from above the table, as well as graduated height increments as fine as 1/256".

If you want to forgo a router lift now, I would at least select a router that is compatible with a lift, should you change your mind and/or budget later. The Triton plunge router is not compatible with most router lifts. Mounted to a router table plate, the Triton height adjustment can be accessed above the table, but the height lock is still below the table.

I would suggest a Milwaukee 5625-20 3.5 HP router for a similar power router to the Triton. It has above-table height adjustment with its stock base (with below-table lock), but the motor is also removable from the base, and can be installed in several different router lifts.

I have the Milwaukee 5619 2.25 HP router with both plunge and standard body-grip bases, and use it in my table too.

I have an Incra Mast-R-Lift-II-R lift designed to fit the narrower plate opening in Rockler Tables (I have a Rockler Benchdog router table extension wing on my table saw). For other tables with more standard plate openings, INCRA offers the Mast-R-Lift-II lift which is identical except for the plate size.

The Incra Mast-R-Lift-II is made by JessEm, and is the same as the JessEm Mast-R-Lift-II, except color, and the throat inserts on the INCRA versions are steel, and are held securely in the throat recess with strong magnets, for tool-free installation/removal. The Jessem version has plastic throat inserts that use the (included) Jessem tool to remove/install. There is also an INCRA throat insert that takes standard guide bushings, should you need that.

The Mast-R-Lift-II series lifts are compatible with many routers motors, without requiring any adapters, including the Milwaukee 5625-20. I highly recommend the Incra versions.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Bill Dufour]

A used 1.5hp shaper will run around 200$ and include a few cutters. Most will have provisions to use a collet for router bits. Not much to wear on a shaper, just the bearings which are nothing special. The spindle bearing are probably shielded and not sealed. Some people will say the rpm is too low to run router bits others say they are fine just reduce feed rate.
Bil lD

[Brian W Evans]

John,

I have a cast iron router table made by bench dog. I also have the woodpecker's super fence and prl v2 router lift. All three are excellent, rock-solid pieces of equipment that bring me joy when I use them. My router is a big porter cable, purchased as just a motor - no base. I don't remember the model number.

This is an expensive setup, but I can run big jobs through it and it stays absolutely accurate.

The only drawback I can think of is that I sometimes wish the table were bigger, but that's probably because I'm trying to do a hand-held job on the table.

[Tom Bender]

One problem with router tables; if your stock is not perfectly straight it will not sit flat on the table. For example if you are making moulding that you will then rip off of heavier stock or if the work is intentionally curved or if a slight bow is not otherwise a problem.

Usually I use a very small table often with a riser taped to the surface. In fact I haven't used my stationary table in many months. The small table sets up quickly and works better.

Router 5.jpg

[Alan Lightstone]

I went for an MLCS Cast Iron insert, a Porter Cable 7518 3.25 HP router, which I highly recommend. It's all in a homemade router table.

For the fence, and lift I have a Ready-2-Rout system. Digital, overkill, and the company's tech support was terrible with a defective unit. I'd avoid that.

I also have a Woodpeckers PRL-II Router lift, which I replaced with the Jessem which I liked much better. Now I don't use either (want a used one?)

Infinity is a local company here, and produces excellent stuff, and are nice people. But I don't know their router table.

Go big with the router. More power is better here. And the cast iron insert plate keeps it from sagging.

One issue I have is with not having enough table in front of the router bit to safely hold large pieces. I feel it's too short on the MLCS insert. Of course, I guess I could have built the cabinet deeper (Doh! ) I can't put pieces behind the fence due to the Ready-2-Rout, so this is sometimes an issue that many don't have.

I really like the Jessem Clear Cut Stock Guides a lot. I use them all of the time. Hold down pieces to your fence easily and safely.

So, basically, we're all vicariously spending your money. Good luck.Router Table.jpg

[Robert Engel]

I used to have the TRA001 router in my table, but after a few months of use it developed a severe backlash issue in the height adjustment. When the lock lever was released the collet would drop as much as 1/8".

Triton's reply to me was, "it is the nature of the beast" and offered to have me send it to a repair shop, which I did not do. Maybe if the gears were replaced it would help, but I wasn't confident enough so I didn't bother.

IMO there is something about hanging the router upside down that must create some slop in the gears or height adjustment.

You may not have any problems, other than that the router is great. I have read other's having the same issue in other forums.

[Mike Kreinhop]

I used to have the TRA001 router in my table, but after a few months of use it developed a severe backlash issue in the height adjustment. When the lock lever was released the collet would drop as much as 1/8".

Triton's reply to me was, "it is the nature of the beast" and offered to have me send it to a repair shop, which I did not do. Maybe if the gears were replaced it would help, but I wasn't confident enough so I didn't bother.

Rats...I was at a friend's house this morning helping him run some planks through his router table. He also has the TRA001 in a homemade router table, but his is about a year older than mine and has been used a lot more. After about an hour, we noticed the cut depth was different on the past few planks. The friction lock on the router wasn't holding and the router had dropped a few millimeters. After removing the router and performing some maintenance, we both noticed the backlash you described. The degradation of the router must have been so subtle that he didn't notice it and compensated without realizing.

This afternoon I ordered the Incra Mast-R-Lift II from Incremental Tools and the AUKTools V3 router from Wood Workers Woodshop in the UK. This router is one of the few 230V routers available in Europe that will fit in the Incra or Jessum router lifts.

[Thomas McCurnin]

Router table choice is subjective and I’ve never seen much difference in them. A good miter slot and a fence with dust control are necessities. A fence with with a face TTrack on the face of the fence (for hold downs) would be nice, as well as a TTrack on top of the fence for those clever flip down Rockler stops would be nice.

I would pick a router lift that does not use the whole router and only engages and grips the motor. Most of the top end ones do this. Kreg is a good brand.

I would absolutely avoid putting any plunge router into a table. They are nothing but problems. Instead, pick any fixed base router. A big ass Porter Cable would be a good choice.

If you want to single source, MLCS has complete packages with the router table, precise lift, and a dedicated router motor (without the base) at some really nice prices. You can even add a foot peddle switch.

[Andrew Gibson]

Welcome to the Creek John!
If you have any questions about the Infinity table please feel free to reach out to me directly. I won't post my opinion here because I am a little bias.

[Bob Jones 5443]

John, if you have a cabinet-sized table saw with an extension table, that is an excellent place to install a router and lift. Mine is on my Unisaw with a 52" fence. This gives me a table I can play football on; a 7-foot door would be no problem.

I used the relatively lightweight 1-3/4 HP Porter Cable 690 in a simple router plate for many years. Adjustment was always a pain: you pull the router out and set it on the table, then yank open the clamp to unlock it and nudge the router oh so slightly in its spiral to tweak the height, then take up the vertical slack before jamming the clamp back on to lock it (making sure not to let the height change during the clamp jamming), and then put it back in the table. Run a test piece. If it isn't cutting where you thought it would, you repeat the process, which as you see is quite crude with the 690. When I grew up I treated myself to a night-and-day solution...

Mike, your "rats" story gave me the creeps. Nightmare scenario. That's why I love my Mast-R-Lift II. Mine is the JessEm brand, but on reflection I think I might have liked the Incra insert plates a bit more. The point is that the height lock gets the job done, even with the much heavier 3-1/4 HP Porter Cable 7518 (Thomas's "big ass" one). What good is 0.001" adjustment if it can't hold the setting?

So now, John, my router table gives me the royal treatment, and is a joy to use. Get a Mast-R-Lift II (buy Alan's JessEm?) regardless of the router you choose. It will fit any router but a freak-of-nature off brand. Both Mast-R-Lift II brands come with a 3/8" aluminum plate, plenty rigid for a 14-pound router.