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Thread: Veritas router table

  1. #16
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    Would 3/16" thick hardboard (masonite) be a good choice for making some of these inserts? Or other suggestions? I can machine some from aluminum plate, but this will be more costly and more involved. With the hardboard I could use the cnc router, which would be much quicker.

    I'm also thinking that perhaps 3/16" thick acrylic (Plexiglas) might be a good choice. I think this can be machined on the cnc router with a decent finish and to tolerance.

    Thanks,
    David
    Last edited by David Buchhauser; 06-23-2020 at 5:27 AM.

  2. #17
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    I see no reason why you can't use a variety of materials for this kind of thing, David. The only reason I wouldn't use the hardboard is if it's not smooth both sides because it may be a good idea to laminate it. Another alternative is to use thicker hardboard and machine the rim from the back to the required thickness, leaving the rest thicker for more strength. Various plastics come to mind, too. I'm actually going to be doing something similar for another 'Creeker shortly and the plan is for a thicker blank with the rim milled down to match the original inserts. I did a similar job for another 'Creeker about a year ago for bandsaw inserts...starboard plastic for that one.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #18
    These inserts are a little complicated. The opening in the steel router table is bored and then counterbored. The counterbore is not concentric to the primary bore. There is a ridge halfway thru the 3/16 inch thickness. The insert has 2 non concentric steps. The insert is placed in the opening and sits on the ridge. This non concentricity is a few thou. The insert is turned with a 2 pinned tool which tightens the insert to lock it in. It's quite precise. The 2 pin tool is shop made - Veritas supplied the pins with the table. This is harder to describe than to use.

  4. #19
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    That's good information to know, John.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
    One of the table inserts was made to fit the commonly used brass inserts with various sized collars. Veritas makes a set of brass inserts without collars that are flush with the table surface. This is a precise version of a 1/2" opening for smaller bits.

  6. #21
    The Veritas table instructions gave some information on how they designed it. The steel is stressed and rigid so it won't sag even with a heavy router. They point out that a slightly rising table is better than a sagging table. With a sagging table your cut will be full depth at the start of the cut but will be less as you progress and the workpiece bridges the sag. The cut will be full depth all the way on a rising table. In a letter about tools years ago Leonard Lee indicated the Veritas Router Table was a big seller when introduced. I think in the end it was probably left behind by router lifts.
    Last edited by John Gornall; 06-23-2020 at 4:12 PM.

  7. #22
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    Why not use one of the zero clearance inserts and plunge cut a 1/2" hole in it with a same-sized spiral bit in your router?

    You have a lot of tongue and groove to mill. A shaper would probably be a good investment, and stand up to the punishment better than a router/table. Either way, make sure you have adequate fixturing/hold-downs to ensure a straight tongue/groove on the long boards.

    -- Andy - Arlington TX

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy D Jones View Post
    Why not use one of the zero clearance inserts and plunge cut a 1/2" hole in it with a same-sized spiral bit in your router?

    You have a lot of tongue and groove to mill. A shaper would probably be a good investment, and stand up to the punishment better than a router/table. Either way, make sure you have adequate fixturing/hold-downs to ensure a straight tongue/groove on the long boards.

    -- Andy - Arlington TX

    Andy,
    The zero clearance (blank) inserts are not available for this application.
    David

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Gornall View Post
    These inserts are a little complicated. The opening in the steel router table is bored and then counterbored. The counterbore is not concentric to the primary bore. There is a ridge halfway thru the 3/16 inch thickness. The insert has 2 non concentric steps. The insert is placed in the opening and sits on the ridge. This non concentricity is a few thou. The insert is turned with a 2 pinned tool which tightens the insert to lock it in. It's quite precise. The 2 pin tool is shop made - Veritas supplied the pins with the table. This is harder to describe than to use.
    Hi John,
    Thanks for your input! Robert (the OP) sent me one of the original inserts and the stepped portion (smaller diameter) is offset (non-concentric) by about 0.015". I was not sure why, but now I understand. I'm not sure how well hardboard would hold up for this application, since the narrow step is under an interference fit when rotated for tightening. I am thinking either acrylic sheet or the HDPE sheet that Jim mentioned would be the most cost effective solution. I do have the ability to cnc machine the parts from aluminum or steel, but the setup and fixturing would be more involved and not as cost effective.
    David

    Veritas router plate insert.jpg

  10. #25
    2 circles of acrylic 3/32" thick - put them in the table in the neutral position with acrylic solvent (glue) in between - weigh it down and let it bond - turn lightly to lock in place.

  11. #26
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    John,
    Thanks for the tip! Unfortunately, I don't have the table. These are for the OP (Robert) who has only sent me a sample part. But it's not any problem at all to machine the complete part from acrylic with my Avid cnc router table. I would just cut the 2 circles at the same time from a single piece of 3/16" acrylic, with the center of the smaller circle offset from the center of the larger circle by 0.015". And machine in the 2 holes for the spanner at the same time.
    David
    Last edited by David Buchhauser; 06-24-2020 at 5:47 AM.

  12. #27
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    Mar 2005
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    Cashiers NC
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    I have this tabletop with fence and some other accessories. When Lee Valley stopped selling it I bought some inserts. I got the blank ones that I just drill to whatever size I need.
    Charlie Jones

  13. #28
    That's what it was for me, I had one for many years, got tired of the little step lines caused by raising the bit by turning the motor. Went with a mast r lift which is awesome, especially for sneaking up on bit heights...

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