Sawstop Outfeed Table?

[Darrin Davis]

Has any sawstop owners purchased an outfeed table for their sawstop. I was looking at the HTC roller outfeed table and was concerned about drilling holes into the sawstop cabinet. There's a lot going on inside the cabinet!

If I have to I will build an outfeed table but would just like to buy one if they will work.

[Jim Becker]

Personally, I don't like the roller tables as they limit your ability to use the surface for "other" things. There is a plan for an outfeed setup that's easy to build on my web site...many folks have used that design on a wide variety of machines. That said, unless you go with some kind of free-standing table, you'll likely need to do some drilling for proper support of many types of outfeed solutions.

[Andrew Williams]

I made one... no drilling necessary, just screwed it into the pre-drilled holes on the rear rail.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...9&d=1180563847

[Don Bullock]

I have an Incra fence on my SawStop so I'm planning to attach an outfeed table to the rear Incra rail somehow. I'm still working on the design, but may make something like the Jointech "floating table" using Incra rails.

[David Giles]

You're going to laugh, but here's my Incra / Sawstop outfeed "table". The workbench is 1/2" below the saw table. There's enough space to squeeze between the bench and saw for assembly work. The 1/2" thick maple piece has a 3/4" wide piece screwed underneath it that fits between the fence and the saw. Two of these handle a sheet of plywood just fine. Space to your satisfaction and to avoid fence interference. It's the most used jig in the shop.

[Mike Heidrick]

I push my stock onto my assembly table/bench.

Link to my sawstop picture

[Don Bullock]

You're going to laugh, but here's my Incra / Sawstop outfeed "table". The workbench is 1/2" below the saw table. There's enough space to squeeze between the bench and saw for assembly work. The 1/2" thick maple piece has a 3/4" wide piece screwed underneath it that fits between the fence and the saw. Two of these handle a sheet of plywood just fine. Space to your satisfaction and to avoid fence interference. It's the most used jig in the shop....

David, that looks like a great solution to me. I wish I didn't have to move my saw around or I'd do something like that too.

[Joe Jensen]

Here is my solution. I think with a cabinet this rigid you could put it on rollers. It would be fairly simple to make a clamp arrangement to clamp it to the saw once you wheeled them into place.

[Bob Feeser]

I have an Incra fence on my SawStop so I'm planning to attach an outfeed table to the rear Incra rail somehow. I'm still working on the design, but may make something like the Jointech "floating table" using Incra rails.

Here is what I came up with as the solution for the Incra fence outfeed table. By creating a slight ramp on the fore piece, it accomodates the gap between the saw and the outfeed table nicely. Norm on NYW mentioned that even with his butted up to the saw, he drops his outfeed table 1/8". I like the ramp because it eliminates any snags, yet keeps a truly flat surface as the wood exits.
Plus notice the cutout, for the access to the fence clamping knobs, that enable you to convert the fence bridge to accomodate full size sheets of plywood in cuts to over 48 inches.

You can also notice in the above shot that the L clamps that Incra provides, work equally as well for securing the rail to the saw, as they do securing the rail to the outfeed table. You may need to order a few extras from Incra, they have them available separately.

I know you mentioned that you have to move it, so a fold down outfeed table is just what the doctor ordered. Maybe you can implement these principles in a drop down table as well.

This outfeed table is fully adjustable with individual adjusters on each of the 8 feet; keeps it truly flat, so I make it double as an assembly/glue up table with a plastic sheet when I am doing that.


Here it is in the full view. Notice where the fence is in relation to the saw. It is the standard 72" fence, yet I am able to easily get over 48" cuts. The optional 90 inch rails are designed for that, but with this set up, the 72" do just fine. I don't need to have rails extending out to the left of the saw blade. (For this to work, on the PM66 I had to add about an 8" filler between the standard side extension table that came with the saw, and the cast iron extension on that side.)



Here it is under construction

[Don Bullock]

Bob, that's quite an outfeed table and one I'll definately consider making when I'm able to set up shop in a dedicated space. Thanks for the pictures.

[David Giles]

It's always embarrassing to post in the same thread as Bob Feeser. I'll bet he built his outfeed table with a pull saw and hand planes.

[John Bush]

Hi Darrin,
I milled some old fir left overs and made a simple frame, sheeted it with some left over 3/4 ply and laminated it with black lam I found at Homer Depot. I found a set of adjustable legs at my favorite industrial supply junk shop and milled the leading edge of the table to rest/attach on the fence table angle iron. I used two threaded inserts in the front table support, drilled thru the angle iron, and used knobs with 1/4" threaded rod to secure to the saw. I then just bolted swivel casters on the legs for mobility. I determined the size of the table by the size of the extra ply I had and it is just right for ripping full sheets of ply. The only changes/suggestions would be to extend the miter gauge slots further and the knob by the motor cover is in the way of full opening. I can still access the cabinet innards when infrequently needed(to retrieve the arbor nut when I drop it!!). I would possibly consider making the table the full width of fence table because I use it for assembly etc. and the extra space could come in handy. I can unscrew the knobs, fold down the legs, and store if needed. The legs were used as a stantion for an industrial roller conveyor system and I paid scrap prices for them, ~~$15.00, so that was a unique deal. I am sure you could find a suitable support system, or simply make them from scrap as well. After I found all the goodies needed, this was a 3/4 day project and likely was cheaper/better than store bought. Here are some pics. Good luck, John.



A bit fuzzy but you can see howheavy duty the legs are.




Here is the attachment to the angle iron.


Here is a fuzzy view of the underside and you can see the knob on the left that is in the way of the door. Not really a problem tho.


Come to think of it, I have the threaded rod fixed to the table to use as positioning pins when attaching the table and the knobs are the screwed on the the rods. JCB.

[Bob Feeser]

Bob, that's quite an outfeed table and one I'll definately consider making when I'm able to set up shop in a dedicated space. Thanks for the pictures.

Don,
I was thinking about how to convert this table style into a convertible one that you could fold down. You could build the first 8 inches or so of it as a permanent attachment, then attach the additional outbound portion of the outfeed as a box so to speak using hinges.

A couple more thoughts; I am concerned about wood movement, and the two sections possibly creating a lip. So it is advisable to create an aft section using the ramp principle again, although you wouldn't need much of one, considering their is no gap between the fore and aft table.

You would also need legs support for the fore table. The aft table legs could be the swing out variety. All of these legs would benefit from adjusters, so you can true them up, no matter what the surface variation is that you are setting it on.

I don't know how your mobile base is set up, and whether you could include the legs to the fore table to ride on it. That would of course be a neccessity. If you could then that would be a great advantage. For one, you would not have to drill any additional holes in your table saw. The additional brackets from the Incra fence facing out, would be all you need. (They are thick aluminum and bolt through)

I still like the idea of being able to adjust the aft portion of the table. Even with the mini ramp, It may not snag the wood, but I really like the idea of your wood leaving on a perfectly flat plane. Although a rigidly attached hinge assembly shouldn't move. I just like building in adjustability and removability, if possible.

[Bob Feeser]

It's always embarrassing to post in the same thread as Bob Feeser. I'll bet he built his outfeed table with a pull saw and hand planes.

Dave,
Thank you for your kind words. Now all I have to do is work on learning how to use my pull saw and hand planes properly.

[Don Bullock]

Bob, thanks for the additional information. I'll definately look into your idea. Right now my schedule is full of dog shows and getting back to my teaching job so that I can make some money. I've also got some other projects that I need to do before I worry about an outfeed table.

Your setup looks like something I'd love make in the future. My wife and I are planning to move soon after she retires. Our priorities for a new place, in addition to more room for all our dogs, include a dedicated shop space for me. I really like what you have done. That table looks just like something that I invisioned for the center of my shop, but yours is much better. The only thing I may add is some cabinet work under the top for storage. Like, David, I'm impressed with your work. You're one of those people here who obviously take a lot of pride in your work. I like the idea of making your shop fixtures look like furniture I'd be proud to have in my home. I realize that doing that takes extra time, effort and money, but it shows your level of pride and craftsmanship. My feeling is if I'm going to work long hours in my shop, it needs to be a place I enjoy being in.