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Thread: Installing ductwork for dust collector? Pics

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Costa View Post
    What are some good options for cutting spiral pipe?
    This was my solution. Cheap 2" castors and some scrap lumber. I bought the Eastwood metal cutting saw specifically to cut spiral pipe but is coming in handy for other projects now. I cut 8" and 6" pipe with what is shown and made another piece to screw on for 4" pipe. After a few tries I got really good with making virtually perfect cuts.


  2. #32
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Dixon View Post
    Steve I'll post what I think you are asking for. If you want me to zoom in on a machine connection or some other detail let me know and I'll gab another photo. As for hangers I used two types. For the main 8" trunk I went with a more rigid two piece clamping hanger with 2 lengths of all thread which I connected to Sammys 3/8-16 x 2 Threaded Rod Hanger for Wood that I screwed into the ceiling joists through a washer. For all my 6" pipe I used a Tear Drop Pipe Hanger. one at least every 10 feet. for vertical drops I made clamping wall mounts using one of part of a 6" two piece clamping hanger and made a BB piece to mount to the wall.

    Attachment 433063 Attachment 433065 Attachment 433069 Attachment 433068

    Here are various views of the full installation inside the shop.

    Attachment 433070 Attachment 433071 Attachment 433073 Attachment 433074

    Well I reached the 8 picture limit. Let me know if there is some detail I missed that you are interested in.

    Tom - Thanks for getting back to me with the additional pics, etc. Your installation along with an earlier comment by Jim Becker has motivated me to make yet another change. I really like the fittings you used that seem far superior to the adjustable type I ordered. Besides looking ugly the adjustable type may be a source for unnecessary leaks. It looks like the ones you used (?) are the same as offered by The Blastgate Co. If so the installation would also be easier in that crimping the fitting or pipe isn't necessary. At least that's what I understand from the description of them. I will be taking a bit of a lose in what was already purchased but I think it will for the better. I also like what you've done with all of your supports.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Steve, you don't want to use crimps with spiral pipe...the smooth sleeves are the way to go!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #34
    +1 for smooth sleeves only As Jim said, They are the way to go!

    All my pipe, fittings and hangers came from
    The Blastgate Co. I made my plan, from that made my list and then contacted them via email and asked for their best price including shipping. Their sales guy Dan gave me a discount of around 10% on the entire order which more than covered the freight cost. I ordered 4 8" pipe, 26 6" pipe, 1 4" pipe, 55 fittings, 20 pipe connectors, 16 hangers, 12 bast gates and some 4",5" and 6" flexible hose. I ended up not using the 6" hose and ordered a few other fittings later after making a minor change to my plan and Dan gave me the same discounted pricing for those odds and ends.

    I also had
    The Blastgate Co. custom build me a 90 degree 6" connector for my Unisaw for around $90.

    WIN_20190921_08_43_15_Pro.jpg WIN_20190921_08_43_30_Pro.jpg Uni1.jpg Uni2.jpg
    Last edited by Tom Dixon; 05-16-2020 at 3:44 PM.

  5. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Steve, you don't want to use crimps with spiral pipe...the smooth sleeves are the way to go!
    Smooth sleeves? According to the The Blastgate Co. their fittings slip inside the spiral pipe. Hopefully the spiral pipe I'm getting locally has the same inside diameter.

    Edit - Smooth sleeves = male pipe connectors by The Blastgate Co.?
    Last edited by Steve Mathews; 05-16-2020 at 3:49 PM.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Highland MI
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    Jim, the aluminum flex actually had a rated vacuum which was close to what I would be running, so I had my fingers crossed when I first tested it with all gates shut.
    NOW you tell me...

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Mathews View Post
    Smooth sleeves? According to the The Blastgate Co. their fittings slip inside the spiral pipe. Hopefully the spiral pipe I'm getting locally has the same inside diameter.

    Edit - Smooth sleeves = male pipe connectors by The Blastgate Co.?
    We are talking about the same thing....
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #38
    Thanks gents!

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    El Dorado Hills, CA, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Dixon View Post
    Question for you Tom, if you don't mind. Did you make these plywood brackets - make them with a large hole saw? And then do you use HVAC strapping to hold the pipe to them? How wide is that strapping?

    Thanks

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mills View Post
    Question for you Tom, if you don't mind. Did you make these plywood brackets - make them with a large hole saw? And then do you use HVAC strapping to hold the pipe to them? How wide is that strapping?

    Thanks
    Dave They are made by laminating two sheets of 3/4 baltic birch plywood together. Then I cut out 9" squares and used a 6" hole saw to cut out the middle. I set the lowest speed possible on my drill press. Then I used an oscillating spindle sander to clean up and enlarge the holes to around 6 1/8 ", cut them in half on a band saw and attached a 3"x13" piece of 1/2 baltic birch plywood for the base. I relieved any edges that weren't connected with a trim router and a 1/8" round over bit, sanded and put on a single coat of poly.

    I did not use HVAC strapping. I used 1 side of a 1 1/2" wide two piece clamp hanger from The Blastgate Co. I drilled holes to use 5/16 lag screws to attach the strap clamp. They aren't fastened all the way to the wood. There is about a 1/2" to 3/4" gap but the pipe is held really snugly. I would mark my sheetrock walls through the attachment holes in the base and put screw in anchors in the wall before fastening them down if the hole location missed a stud.

    hanger.JPG WIN_20191027_16_47_21_Pro.jpg IMG_2760.jpg
    Last edited by Tom Dixon; 05-17-2020 at 8:10 AM.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    El Dorado Hills, CA, USA
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    Fantastic, Tom, thanks for the details!

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
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    9,879
    I bought a flycutter for use in the drill press to make exact size holes. You have to turn the cutter depending on if you want a clean hole or a clean plug. Once you have it dialed in make a shallow cut in scrap and save the scrap as a guage. If you mess up you can screw a piece of scrap across the hole to allow a center hole. I had to do this to move a hole over 1/2 inch with a hole saw.
    For deep cuts you have to grind some side relief on the cutter bit. It is just a standard 1/4 HSS lathe cutter. You could even get a carbide tipped one and cut marble.
    Bill D.

    https://www.generaltools.com/heavy-duty-circle-cutter

  13. #43
    Join Date
    May 2005
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    Highland MI
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    Flycutter for my 4" blast gates: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5OR...ature=youtu.be I had scrap 1-1/8" particle board which was perfect. Using my mini-mill was a cut above using my drill press.
    NOW you tell me...

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    central tx
    Posts
    589
    Might be late but here's mine:
    IMG_4936.jpg

    Full 7" to the second split, about 36" straight. All 6" spiral after that. I've got no complaints.

    I bought a ton of stuff from theblastgate co including some custom 22.5 connectors for my vaulted ceiling. Then I bought more from a local place. Not all sleeves and connectors are created equal. I had to use the crimpers in a couple spots which is not easy to do on spiral.

  15. #45
    I'm getting close to finishing my dust collection system install and have a few questions. On interior drops is it necessary to brace the vertical ducts? Also, is it necessary to brace the horizontal runs? It seems to me that when the dust collector is turned on the ducts will move. All of my horizontal runs are supported with standard teardrop shaped pipe hangers and 3/8" rod.

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