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Thread: Extend power cord on PM 60HH jointer

  1. #16
    My jointer has a 3 hp 230 volt single phase Baldor motor. I also needed about a 20 foot cord. I used 10 gauge SJ or SO coming off the starter with a 30 amp twist lock going into a 30 amp twist lock receptacle. No way will this damage the motor due to any amperage drop. I probably could have gotten by with 12 gauge, but for the minor increase in cost, I know the motor has all the amps it will ever need, especially on start up.

  2. #17
    Thanks, Jim and Rob. I've thought about and read about this kind of thing a lot over the years and this is what I was thinking, I appreciate the verification. I started to doubt my thinking though when I called grizzly to see if adding a longer cord would void the warranty, they said it wouldn't, but the tech I talked to really thought this was a bad idea. He seemed to think even 15 feet instead of the 6 that comes with it was not good. I just couldn't understand why he thought a few feet made such a difference.

    I was thinking about 10 gauge to be safe, but I want to be able to fit it into the switch box and whatever kind of connections it has easily, trying not to modify this machine too much while under warranty.

    Thanks again

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    1,859
    One thing to remember is the engineers who designed the tool picked the size of the cord based on the current draw of the motor, the amount of time they expect it to run, and the length of the cord. My point is they may have picked a smaller gauge than what would be needed if you want to replace a 6' cord with a 20' one. That could mean fitting a larger gauge wire into the electrical box inside the tool could be difficult.

  4. #19
    Thanks Alex. I’ll keep this in mind. I guess if I open the switch and it looks like I can’t get a larger gauge cord in there I’ll do the pigtail thing or just add the extension cord.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Somewhere in the Land of Lincoln
    Posts
    2,073
    It comes with a 14 gauge so upsizing to 12 should allow you to extend it to the length you need. The strain relief might be the limiting factor though. If it is then I would shorten the OEM cord to about 12", add a twist lock ends and make your own dedicated extension cord from 12 gauge cord.

  6. I recommend 10/3 300 volt SJOOW flex cord, it's rated for 30 amps at a cord length of 1-50 feet. 25 amps from 51-100 feet. I have standardized on this cord and twist locks in my shop. The 12 gauge flex cord (been there, done that) would be fine but the cord is rather thin and less durable. The 10/3 SOOW 600 volt (been there done that) has much thicker insulation, ridiculously thick, heavy and difficult to coil. Think welder cord out on the docks in an industrial environment getting run over by fork lifts. The 10/3 300 volt SJOOW is the sweet spot.

    Welcome to the G0858 club I started uncrating my new G0858 jointer last night!

    tools10.jpg

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Location
    Stevensville, MT
    Posts
    28
    I have pigtailed all my mobile power tools and some of the portable ones too.
    The best way to go.
    I agree, original cords to long and get in the way around the shop.

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Coolidge View Post
    I recommend 10/3 300 volt SJOOW flex cord, it's rated for 30 amps at a cord length of 1-50 feet. 25 amps from 51-100 feet. I have standardized on this cord and twist locks in my shop. The 12 gauge flex cord (been there, done that) would be fine but the cord is rather thin and less durable. The 10/3 SOOW 600 volt (been there done that) has much thicker insulation, ridiculously thick, heavy and difficult to coil. Think welder cord out on the docks in an industrial environment getting run over by fork lifts. The 10/3 300 volt SJOOW is the sweet spot.

    Welcome to the G0858 club I started uncrating my new G0858 jointer last night!

    tools10.jpg
    Thanks for the recommendation Charles. I'll wait and see what size wire the switch box can accommodate. I'm not sure I can make a cord any better or cheaper than I can buy though. AC works on amazon has some nice cords for good prices. I have one for the vacuum hold down on my cnc router and its nice and flexible and well made.

    I'm happy to be in the g0858 club, well so far anyway. I just bought it yesterday, I hope it is pretty close to tuned when I get it, well at least pretty flat tables that are parallel. I'm tired of messing around with my g0654 6" jointer trying to get it tuned. It was cutting nicely for a long time, then I moved and ever since I just can't get it set up right. I've been meaning to upgrade sometime anyway.

    I've got to get the g0858 shipped to a local sign supply shop that has a loading dock, he said I could use since grizzly says lift gate service is not available. Then I'll either rent a lift gate truck from Penske or hire a flat bed tow truck to move it. The shop owner is nice enough to let me borrow his pallet jack too. Keeping my fingers crossed for a good one.

  9. Quote Originally Posted by Jason Evans View Post
    I've got to get the g0858 shipped to a local sign supply shop that has a loading dock, he said I could use since grizzly says lift gate service is not available. Then I'll either rent a lift gate truck from Penske or hire a flat bed tow truck to move it. The shop owner is nice enough to let me borrow his pallet jack too. Keeping my fingers crossed for a good one.
    Wow, or call Grizzly and tell those knuckleheads you want the liftgate service for $34. It says no liftgate service on the product page, but then liftgate service is offered out checkout. Note I opted for liftgate service, they trucked it right to my house and unloaded via liftgate and pallet jacked into my garage.

    liftgate.jpg

    In related news beware of those lift hooks, a retarded design imo. With only 2 lift hooks, 1 on each side diagonally the top heavy jointer at those lifting points can tip diagonally and flip over. I had to use a 3rd strap to keep it upright. It should have 4 lifting hooks imo. She is safely sitting on the floor now but phew it got dicey there for a minute.
    Last edited by Charles Coolidge; 01-21-2022 at 10:01 AM.

  10. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Coolidge View Post
    Wow, or call Grizzly and tell those knuckleheads you want the liftgate service for $34. It says no liftgate service on the product page, but then liftgate service is offered out checkout. Note I opted for liftgate service, they trucked it right to my house and unloaded via liftgate and pallet jacked into my garage.

    liftgate.jpg

    In related news beware of those lift hooks, a retarded design imo. With only 2 lift hooks, 1 on each side diagonally the top heavy jointer at those lifting points can tip diagonally and flip over. I had to use a 3rd strap to keep it upright. It should have 4 lifting hooks imo. She is safely sitting on the floor now but phew it got dicey there for a minute.
    dang! I called grizzly and they said nope not happening. Maybe I’ll call back today and try again. Are you in a neighborhood? Country road?

    Thanks for the warning in the hooks. Not sure how I’m going to get into it if the crate yet.

  11. #26
    I'm in a residential area on 1 acre. My driveway is paved. Just the typical liftgate truck requirements, they need room to park the truck in the road. They backed the truck into my driveway no problem. I lifted it off the crate bottom with my Kubota tractor font end loader. I think an engine hoist won't work given the length of the base and tables.

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Evans View Post
    Thanks, Jim and Rob. I've thought about and read about this kind of thing a lot over the years and this is what I was thinking, I appreciate the verification. I started to doubt my thinking though when I called grizzly to see if adding a longer cord would void the warranty, they said it wouldn't, but the tech I talked to really thought this was a bad idea. He seemed to think even 15 feet instead of the 6 that comes with it was not good. I just couldn't understand why he thought a few feet made such a difference.

    I was thinking about 10 gauge to be safe, but I want to be able to fit it into the switch box and whatever kind of connections it has easily, trying not to modify this machine too much while under warranty.

    Thanks again
    Hi Jason,

    You can use a wire size calculator to estimate what you'll need. As Jim said, I think the voltage drop won't have any impact at that distance, but you can use the calculator to tinker around and find a configuration you like. I am not an electrician.

    Calculator I use:

    http://wiresizecalculator.net/

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Redmond, OR
    Posts
    320
    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Evans View Post
    Thanks, Jim and Rob. I've thought about and read about this kind of thing a lot over the years and this is what I was thinking, I appreciate the verification. I started to doubt my thinking though when I called grizzly to see if adding a longer cord would void the warranty, they said it wouldn't, but the tech I talked to really thought this was a bad idea. He seemed to think even 15 feet instead of the 6 that comes with it was not good. I just couldn't understand why he thought a few feet made such a difference.

    I was thinking about 10 gauge to be safe, but I want to be able to fit it into the switch box and whatever kind of connections it has easily, trying not to modify this machine too much while under warranty.

    Thanks again
    2hp @ 220v will pull a max of about 6amps - a 12 gauge extension cord will handle 14 amps which will be more than plenty! No need to go with 10 gauge , that will just be more expensive and fatter and more cord to move around.

    The tech doesn't know what he is talking about. Get a 20' 12 gauge extension cord, cut off the receptacle end and make it as long as you need.

    I purchase pretty much used equipment, the older the better. That means putting new cords on pretty much everything. I like molded plugs so I use a lot of extensions cords with one end cut off as new power cables. I almost get excited when I buy a hand power tool with a bad cord knowing that I get to replace it with a long cord!
    Last edited by Michael Schuch; 01-21-2022 at 7:16 PM.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Vermont
    Posts
    341
    Just found this thread, I have been using twist-lock extension cords on all my machines for years, because they are all in the middle of the shop and my receptacles are on the walls. I don't have pigtails at the machine but that is a great idea. I used to work with a guy who cut all but six inches off all his hand-held power tools (this was 30+ years ago when cordless tools were in infancy) and he equipped all of the cutoff ends with a new male end, and then used one extension cord for everything. Made the tools much easier to store, I guess. I do like Hubbell or Pass&Seymour/LeGrand connectors, buy the commercial or industrial rated cord ends. I use SJOOW 12-gauge cord for everything. Prefer orange, yellow or bright blue if I can get it, it's easy to see on the shop floor.
    Jon Endres
    Killing Trees Since 1983

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Coolidge View Post
    I'm in a residential area on 1 acre. My driveway is paved. Just the typical liftgate truck requirements, they need room to park the truck in the road. They backed the truck into my driveway no problem. I lifted it off the crate bottom with my Kubota tractor font end loader. I think an engine hoist won't work given the length of the base and tables.
    I asked grizzly again, and nope. Still don't know how I'm getting it out of the crate when it comes.

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